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1、Andrey ZvyagintsevWomens SS 23Fashion WeeksReportCourtesy of PradaCourtesy of PradaWomens Fall Winter 23Fashion WeeksReportSpeakersJulie PontFashion&Creative Director Amlie RotsenFashion Analyst What a season it has been!For over a month,our team has been closely analyzing the womens ready-to-wear c

2、ollections for fall-winter 2023,and its safe to say that the creativity and innovation on display have been nothing short of extraordinary.Its often said that the mens collections set the tone for the following year and pave the way for womens trends.The 2023 collections seem to perfectly embody thi

3、s adage.With tributes to fashion giants such as Paco Rabanne and Vivienne Westwood,a resurgence of the New Look,the return of gloves,gaiters,and hats,its clear that contemporary womens fashion is engaging with the past with ease.But this isnt just a fleeting trend.Rather,it is a movement that our te

4、am has been observing for several months,and it is now confirmed.Designers are showcasing a vision of clothing and silhouette that champions elegance and savoir-faire with unanimity and conviction.Even when contemporary shapes are embraced,such as those found in the collections of our Danish friends

5、,they are paired with noble materials that elevate the overall look.In London,the collections paid homage to sailors wardrobes,leg sleeves from the 1830s,and hourglass corsets.PradaA Resurgence of Elegance and Feminine empowermentEditoThese elements were seamlessly integrated into a contemporary sil

6、houette,while Milan and Paris summoned the flamboyance of their craft,honoring the golden age of fashion houses like Prada,Yves Saint Laurent,Chanel,Balmain,Givenchy,and Dior.In this way,we are once again experiencing a certain idea of chic,where the focus is on the essential:clothing.This season pa

7、ys true homage to decades of excellence and high standards,as evidenced by the virtual absence of sneakers on the catwalks.Classic and eclectic styles meld together,with the garment placed at the center of the discourse.The lines navigate between effortless nonchalance and baroque exuberance,with vi

8、rtuoso structuring.The range of colors is sober and neutral,highlighting the line of a shoulder,the bulge of a bar suit,or the curve of a peplum skirt.However,these collections are not merely an exercise in style.More profoundly,they reflect the appearance and being of the modern woman in the world.

9、The aim is not to encapsulate women in an idealized image,but rather to celebrate the multiplicity of femininity without the need for external validation.This seasons anti-male gaze movement revives yesteryears silhouettes,some of which were stereotyped and hypersexualized.However,these collections

10、echo Margaret Atwoods words in her book,The Robber Bride,explaining the paradox of female perception:Male fantasies,male fantasies,is everything run by male fantasies?Up on a pedestal or down on your knees,its all a male fantasy:that youre strong enough to take what they dish out,or else too weak to

11、 do anything.Even pretending you arent catering to male fantasies is a male fantasy:pretending youre unseen,pretending you have a life of your own,that you can wash your feet and comb your hair unconscious of the ever-present watcher peering through the keyhole,peering through the keyhole in your ow

12、n head,if nowhere else.You are a woman with a man inside watching a woman.You are your own voyeur.In the current year of 2023,even in the most revealing fashion shows crafted by men,the underlying purpose is no longer to cater to the male gaze.In 2023,the modern woman no longer experiences the voyeu

13、ristic perspective within her own psyche.Instead,she possesses an unwavering sense of her own strength and infinite potential.INDEX123 45 City SpotlightThe top runway trends,divided by city,analyzed by our AIThematic Trend AnalysisStar TrendsSee how the most common trends were adapted in different w

14、aysPetar PetrovStandout colors,prints,fabrics,silhouettes,and accessories of the season and the evolution of previous themesThe FW 22 to Streetstyle pipelineSee how trends from last season are being worn on the streetTrends Screening Reality or projection?Accurate behavioral analyses of the most vis

15、ible trendsCitySpotlight1Courtesy of PradaHow are the main trends from fashion weeks distributed in the different fashion capitals?What stands out as the macro trends in Milan and Paris?Lets look at the bigger picture of what emerged from these collections.18%Top trendsParis7%25%1.BALMAIN2.CALVIN LU

16、O 3.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 1.COURREGES2.GIVENCHY3.GAUCHERE 1.A.W.A.K.E MODE2.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN3.CHLOE1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Last stop before the endpoint,the Parisian Fashion Week focused on twisting and reinventing concepts of elegance,delivering conceptual runway moments and unveiling emerging designers.Ind

17、eed,this season carried a strong focus on emerging designers as well as on young designers taking the lead of well-established brands like Harris Reed at Nina Ricci or Ludovic De Saint-Sernin at Ann Demeulemeester.Another singular moment was offered by Coperni and its dog-robots performance.Overall,

18、designers mostly reinvested in classics with a strong use of combined black and white,a focus on blazers accounting for 25%of the total jackets among others.Globally Paris called for a classy,refreshed everyday life closet.Black and White See Through BlazerFW 23 TrendsStreetstyle Adoption 2Courtesy

19、of Prada1.Jeremy Moeller2.Jeremy Moeller3.Edward Berthelot2.3.1.-6%In Fall 22 vs Fall 21Magnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAM+0%In Fall 23 vs Fall 22Magnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMDenimStreet Style Penetration Rate 35%FW 22FW 232.Denim has been a big focus both fo

20、r womenswear and menswear designers for two seasons straight.They have explored the casual fabric both for its daily practicality and for the untouched creative potential it has to offer.The material is obviously one that is widely spread in adoption,but its 35%penetration rate in streetstyle pictur

21、es shows that the fashion crowd was also up for the challenge.Data wise,the fabric shows without any surprise a massive magnitude in visibility and an adoption by all three consumer segments.While the dynamics for next fall appear flat,the SS23 collections featuring a lot of denim may result in a gr

22、adual increase in its visibility by the beginning of 2024.ThematicTrends Analysis3Courtesy of PradaDisheveled WitchyBoudoirApparent lingerieGothicStructuredLa Garonne Irreverent50sOld EleganceFlamboyantRegalMonochromaticFunctionalLengthening Skirt Suits80sPower ShouldersSurrealistFairy CoreForm Fitt

23、ingDrapingExuberantVoluminousAlluring RebellionExploring feminine elegance through self-determination and sex-positivityTime CapsuleExploring feminine elegance by drawing into brands heritage codesElevated UniformExploring feminine elegance through simple yet thoughtful and sophisticated uniformsBar

24、occoreExploring feminine elegance through unapologetic flamboyance and opulenceThe MisfitExpress herself by drawing from her own universe apart from social expectationsThe CharmerExpress her confidence in her ability to use charm and social skills to navigate different situationsThe DivaExpress hers

25、elf through exuberant styling,shes meant to stand outThemeMatrixThis Theme Matrix has been created to briefly highlight intelligible and interpretable merchandising stories.We used a two way table to better understand how brands with different DNAs interpreted similar universes.The rows are the answ

26、ers to the question“In what ways are you inspired to revisit the multiple facets of feminine elegance?”that designers offered this season whereas the columns are centered around the most addressed personas of the FW 23 fashion weeks.Focus on FabricsTo confirm our intuition of a clear return to savoi

27、r-faire and refined fabrics,we utilized our visual recognition technology to analyze the distribution of formal and casual fabrics per capita.We qualitatively categorized our fabric catalog as either formal-such as fur,lace,sequins,and tweed-or casual-including denim,knit,and nylon-and allowed the A

28、I to do the rest.CopenhagenNew-YorkLondonMilanParisformal fabricscasual fabricsFocus on FootwearCopenhagenNew-YorkLondonMilanParisformal shoescasual shoesWe applied the same methodology to footwear,knowing it is a strong category for luxury brands.While sneakers and casual shoewear have been dominat

29、ing the market for years now,we wanted to see if this shift was also reflected in the footwear category.We classified sneakers and flat sandals as casual shoes and grouped the remaining categories,such as boots,high heel sandals,and pumps,as formal footwear.Alluring RebellionA New Era of Self Determ

30、ination4.2.3.5.1.1.ELENA VELEZ2.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN3.HODAKOVA4.PRISCAVERA5.ALESSANDRA RICH+1%Key ColorsBlackRedOff-White+7%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVE Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:45%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIG Segmentation MAINSTREAM&EDGYRunway Share:3%+4%In F

31、all 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation EDGY,TRENDYRunway Share:1%Alluring RebellionKey FabricsSee ThroughLatex+2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIG Segmentation EDGY&TRENDY Runway Share:10%Lace-4%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIG Segmentation MAINSTREAM&EDGYRunway Share:5%Alluring Rebe

32、llionKey PatternsSubtle LogosBlurred Florals-4%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIG Segmentation TRENDY&EDGYRunway Share:22%Alluring RebellionShadesMaxi-Length coatsCatsuitsAsymmetric Neck DressesKeyShapesAsymmetric Neck DressesAsymmetric neck dresses in lace,muslin,or rag-like fabrics were a stando

33、ut feature at shows such as Di Petsa,Elena Velez,and Yuhan Wang.The combination of asymmetry and flowy materials created a disheveled,messy vibe that exuded the sensuality and allure of a sexually enticing woman whilst adding an element of risk and excitement to the collections.Disheveled Sensuality

34、1.DI PETSA2.YUHAN WANG3.ELENA VELEZ4.DOLCE&GABBANA5.LUIS DE JAVIER2.3.4.Consistent RiserWomen+1%3.4.5.In Fall 23 vs.last yearSTABLEMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGYLace TightsCrescent BagsLace-Up BootsKeyAccessoriesConsistent DeclinerWomen-3%In Fall 23 vs.last yearDECREASINGMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation

35、 MAINSTREAMWhen heels were first introduced into Western fashion in the 17th century,men eagerly embraced them as expressions of power and superiority over women and/or the lower class.During the 17th century the“mannish woman”style emerged,were some women masculinized their attire and started weari

36、ng heels.This notion of rebellion and self-expression fits perfectly with this theme centered around women empowerment.The Edwardian Boots1.DILARA FINDIKOGLU2.ANNIES IBIZA3.BORA AKSU4.PATOU5.FENDI3.4.2.3.4.5.Lace-Up Boots4.The MisfitADEAMDILARA FINDIKOGLUNENSI DOJAKADOLCE&GABBANARODARTEALEXANDER McQ

37、UEENThe CharmerThe DivaAlluring Rebellion Interpretations:from Misfit to DivaColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesAlluring Rebellion-Starter PackTime CapsuleAn Homage to Heritage 4.2.3.5.1.1.BALMAIN2.LOEWE 3.SCHIAPARELLI4.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN5.BOTTEGA VENETATime CapsuleThis season fashion design

38、ers brought a countless amount of positive surprises by encapsulating historical references,the heritage of their fashion houses;and by enhancing post war allusions.For instance,Balmain centered its collection around classicism:the collection certainly embraced the old codes of the house and the sho

39、w was held in an unusually simple and intimate location with no fireworks and no social media celebrities in the first row.Chanel circled the show around its eternal code-the camellia;whilst Dior was inspired by the 40s in order to celebrate the time when women started to gain more authorityAn Homag

40、e to Heritagefor their work.The brand showcased classical silhouettes of the house and brought to light Christian Diors New look which was created in the 40s and with the goal of dressing women for pleasure rather than for a duty.In addition,Maria Grazia Chiuri revisited the brands heritage of the 1

41、950s and celebrated Catherine Dior and singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco.This season was breathing designers need to go back to the original source.In addition,it felt like designers were influenced by the uncertain times we are living in through focusing on post-war silhouettes and the quality

42、of garments.It created a particular allusion of better times when the wars were over and the fashion shows were less important than the actual clothing.1.2.1.LOEWE 2.SCHIAPARELLI3.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN4.BOTTEGA VENETA2.3.1.5.4.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapes Time Capsule-Starter PackElevate

43、d UniformUpgraded Minimalism1.1.FENDI2.LOEWE3.BURBERRY4.CHLOE5.COURREGES4.2.5.3.Elevated UniformRecent seasons gave the impression that fashion shows were creating a lot of space for entertainment.Holding shows in pompastic locations and focusing on producing a mindblowing show was becoming more sig

44、nificant than the actual clothing.However,FW23 runways showed a slightly different tendency:some designers continued distracting audiences with their entertaining shows whilst many others were choosing simplification in response to a changing consumer demand.Upgraded MinimalismFW23 womenswear runway

45、s surprised with a variety of simple but thoughtful and incredibly well cut pieces which brought a sense of a uniform.Minimalistic shapes were upgraded with a great amount of details such as hanging sleeves,utility straps,buckles,metal studs and gathered details.For instance,sweater dresses demonstr

46、ated asymmetric details,blazer and jackets were cropped,shirt dresses were gathered,and workwear looks showcased a certain sense of elegance.1.1.4.3.2.4.2.3.5.1.LOEWE2.BURBERRY3.CHLOE4.COURREGESColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesElevated Uniform-Starter Pack BaroccoreRebooted Flamboyance4.2

47、.3.5.1.1.VIVIENNE WESTWOOD2.COPERNI3.CHRISTIAN SIRIANO4.MOSCHINO5.DILARA FINDIKOGLUBaroccore1.1.4.3.2.4.3.5.This season carried an unapologetic flamboyant and opulent character.It felt like designers needed to express and exteriorize to tackle the global morosity of the world we currently evolve in:

48、the post-pandemic context,the inflation,the more than worrying situations in Iran,Afghanistan,the war in Ukraine and its globalization,the ecological emergency,just to quote a few.As the Baroque period was characterized by a profusion of mobile accessories,sophisticated decorations,the use of bold c

49、olors and precious fabrics,it is no surprise that for this edition,one of the focus designers chose to invest in was all about volume,evening wear,nonchalant and re-appropriated corsetry,exaggerated 3D ornaments,colorful,shiny and imposing silhouettes taking possession of the space.Before the Pandem

50、ic,“The Lipstick Index”was used to measure and describe the increase of cosmetic sales during early times of recessions,having now evolved into“The Nail Polish Effect”,Baroque Core could just be one of this concepts iteration through fashion.2.1.COPERNI2.CHRISTIAN SIRIANO3.MOSCHINO4.DILARA FINDIKOGL

51、URebooted Flamboyance4.3.5.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesBaroccore-Starter PackStarTrends 4Courtesy of PradaSometimes trends transcend themes and aesthetics.In this section,we review trends so visible that they are expressed through the different themes that we have identified.It is im

52、portant to understand the subtle differences to best adapt a theme to your brand DNA and own audience.Trench Coats1.DRIES VAN NOTEN2.GUCCI3.LAPOINTE1.2.3.Trench coats are timeless wardrobe staples that combine both a sense of elegance and practicality.Given the emphasis on these two qualities in thi

53、s seasons collections,its no surprise that they appeared to be a star trend for this season.At Rokh,Dries Van Noten and Dior they were elevated with luxurious materials and intricate details,and were being worn as both outerwear and dresses.As per our data,we believe they will experience a slight gr

54、owth for next Fall 23.+2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation:EDGYRunway Share 4%Trench Coats4.2.3.5.1.1.ROKH2.CHRISTIAN DIOR3.ACT N14.DUNDAS5.BOTTEGA VENETATime CapsuleBaroccoreAlluring RebellionElevated UniformHead Accessories1.PRIVATE POLICY2.PUPPETS&PUPPETS3.RISN PIERCE1.2.3.This sea

55、son,designers embraced the motto the quirkier,the better when it came to headwear.From formal hats echoing a return to heritage,to random head accessories,no head was left unadorned.Delicate veils at Roisin Pierce,beaded and chainmail face coverings at Puppets&Puppets,Heron Preston,and Di Petsa,and

56、whimsical bunny ears,crowns,face flower crowns,and metallic cages were just some of the unique and playful headpieces on the runway.Head Accessories4.2.3.5.1.1.RODARTE2.PATOU3.ACT N14.DI PETSA5.JIL SANDERTime CapsuleBaroccoreAlluring RebellionElevated Uniform5Courtesy of PradaTrendScreening Fashion

57、weeks and their shows are great moments of innovation and inspiration.However,the enthusiasm of creators for specific trends are not immediately met with the support of the general public.We thus offer you a new type of analysis to understand the real behavior of trends that are widely present on th

58、e catwalks.Red1.2.3.1.HAN KJBENHAVN2.THE ROW3.FENDIBreakdown by cluster of the 61 trends associated with Red by Heuritechs modules:Consistent riser:2%Come back:20%Stable:3%Fluctuating:26%Watch Out:16%Consistent Decliner:33%The FW 23 season will see women in red!From Fendi to Herms to Marni,this colo

59、r was the star of many monochrome looks.According to our data,the colour red goes well with the return of formal dress,with high adoption from categories such as the red dress and formal pants.However,the colour must be approached with caution for streetwear categories such as sneakers and jackets.T

60、rend Behaviour ComebackRed Formal Pants2.BALMAIN+15%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 0%Annual Growth 6%Consistent RiserRed dress1.BLUMARINE+5%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 2%Annual Growth 2%StableRed Woven Top2.BALMAIN+10%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 0%Annual Growth 0%Trend Behaviour

61、 Watch OutRed Skirt2.BALLYConsistent DeclinerRed Sneakers3.MARNI-3%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual Growth-7%+2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual Growth-1%FluctuatingRed Jacket1.ANNIES IBIZA+6%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual Growth 1%6Courtesy of PradaFrom DataTo

62、Design Its impossible to ignore the recent advancements in generative A.I.,particularly in its ability to create original images.With this in mind,weve leveraged our expertise in A.I.and paired it with data generated by Heuritechs visual recognition modules,along with the design and trend knowledge

63、of our fashion team.The designs that have been produced cater to the needs and aesthetic of some of our key customers,and represent a new chapter in the intersection of A.I.and creativity.Its a prime example of how technology can augment the creativity of professionals in the industry.DesignsA.I+4%I

64、n Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation:EDGY,TRENDY,MAINSTREAMCategory breakdown Outerwear 28%shareCome BackCrimson Red+0.2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation:TRENDY,MAINSTREAMJackets type breakdown Puffer 10%shareFluctuatingPuffed Jacket-0.9%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BI

65、GSegmentation:EDGY,TRENDY,MAINSTREAMCategory breakdown Outerwear 18%shareFluctuatingNavy+12%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation:TRENDYCome BackLustrousInspired by Heuritech trend data and clients DNAInspired by catwalksFor accessories1.The City Spotlight outlines some of the most rep

66、resented runway trends in New-York,London,Milan,and Paris,detected by our AI.2.The FW23 shows were marked by a common thread:designers were inspired to explore facets of feminine elegance.We have identified four major themes based on this exploration.-Alluring Rebellion-Time Capsule-Elevated Uniform

67、-Baroccore3.In addition,we observed that three main personas were addressed in a way that reappropriated pejorative terms with a certain irreverence.These personas were The Misfit,The Charmer,and The Diva.4.Leather,fur,red,and yellow were the star trends of the season,appearing in nearly every runway show and in all of our key themes.Using text-to-image AI technologies,we were able to generate designs that encapsulate the key attributes of this FW23 season.KeyTakeawaysSeaPradaSubscribe to our newsletter for more reportsSubscribe to our newsletter