《精奢商業觀察（JingDaily）：2023中國娛樂圈藝人明星大整治對奢侈品行業的影響分析報告（英文版）（51頁）.pdf》由會員分享，可在線閱讀，更多相關《精奢商業觀察（JingDaily）：2023中國娛樂圈藝人明星大整治對奢侈品行業的影響分析報告（英文版）（51頁）.pdf（51頁珍藏版）》請在三個皮匠報告上搜索。

1、WHAT CHINAS BIG CELEBRITY CRACKDOWN MEANS FOR LUXURY1WINTER 2021JINGDAILY.COM$350INSIGHT SERIES 2021 Herlar,LLC.All rights reserved.Jing Daily is a registered U.S.trademark of Herlar,LLC.REPORTSAbout Jing DailyLaunched in 2009,Jing Daily is the leading digital publication on luxury consumer trends i

2、n China.It is our mission to understand the forces shaping the future of the luxury industry by bringing our readers the latest news,analysis,features,and reports exploring developments in that landscape.We seek to understand how the definition of luxury,and by turn its consumption,are changing,how

3、the digital landscape in China is developing,and how brands are adapting and taking advantage of those changes.Our readers are industry leaders seeking to understand Chinas complex and rapidly evolving luxury industry.The Jing Group The Jing Group,which includes Jing Daily,China Film Insider,MOVE TH

4、E MIND,Jing Travel,and Jing Culture&Commerce,is one of the most trusted English-language sources of news and information about global trends in culture,technology,and the business of luxury and fashion,including Chinese culture and commerce,for institutions,companies and professionals worldwide.The

5、Jing Group also encompasses Jing Academy,which brings together the expertise of a team with decades of experience in the China luxury,culture,technology,branded content,and travel industries.Report CreditsAuthors:Avery Booker,Sky Canaves,Zihao LiuContributors:Julienna Law,Jiaqi Luo,Lisa Nan,Gemma A.

6、Williams,Wenzhuo WuEditor:Marc Einsele Designer:System StudioCover Photo:ShutterstockFor editorial inquiries:Daphne Hsia,For partnership opportunities:Daphne Hsia,JINGDAILY.COMWINTER 20213About the Jing Daily Insight SeriesThe Jing Daily Insight Series offers brief and timely reports that highlight

7、key revenue-generating trends for luxury brands,focusing primarily on Chinas rapidly evolving market and the implications for the global consumer landscape.In our latest Insight Series report,we turn our focus to the Chinese governments recent campaigns targeting the countrys enthusiastic celebrity

8、culture and the fan economy,two areas that have expanded rapidly over the past several years and that are now at a crossroads.Among the key questions covered by this report:What spurred Chinas current crackdown on celebrities and fan culture?What effect might the spate of recent high-profile“cancell

9、ations”of stars have on luxury marketing in China in 2022?What are the long-term implications of the celebrity crackdown for global luxury brands and retailers?What options do luxury brands have apart from working with celebrities in China?Could the celebrity crackdown ultimately be a net positive f

10、or luxury brands in China?ABOUT4Executive SummaryJing Daily Trend RatingIntroductionAn Entrenched Celebrity CultureWhy the Fan Economy Matters The Dark Side of the Fan EconomyThe Road to Chinas Celebrity CrackdownSidebar:The Xinjiang Cotton ControversyCelebrities in the CrosshairsClamping Down on th

11、e Fan Economy and“Sissy Men”Where Do Luxury Brands Go From Here?The Silver LiningAppendix:Timeline of Chinas Key Initiatives on Celebrities05081015172124262832374150Chapter 1Chapter 2Chapter 3Chapter 4Chapter 5Chapter 6Chapter 7Chapter 8Chapter 9Chapter 10Chapter 11Chapter 12TABLE OF CONTENTS5CHAPTE

12、R 1EXECUTIVE SUMMARY5CHAPTER 16Government crackdowns are nothing new in the Peoples Republic of China,with Beijing authorities regularly issuing new regulations on business,tech,and entertainment at the drop of a hat,leaving companies both foreign and domestic scrambling to adjust.But in 2021,the ex

13、panding scrutiny of Chinas booming celebrity culture carries especially strong long-term implications for the marketing efforts of luxury brands that have come to depend on the Chinese market as critical to their post-COVID recovery.Fourteen years after Chinas powerful State Administration of Radio,

14、Film,and Television(SARFT)now known as the National Radio and Television Administration(NRTA)banned voting by at-home audiences in an attempt to quell the rabid fan club activity inspired by the American Idol-style program Super Girl 超級女聲1,Beijing has again placed the countrys enthusiastic fan and c

15、elebrity cultures in its crosshairs.Over the course of 2021,regulators from the NRTA and the increasingly influential Cyberspace Administration of China(CAC)tightened their grip on what can be shown on television or streaming platforms,while high-profile“cancellations”(and even arrests)of hugely pop

16、ular celebrities have served to show hundreds of millions of Chinese fans who is really in charge.During this time,major global brands even those who avoided getting caught up in recent political dust-ups,such as the Xinjiang cotton controversy in March(see inset on page 26)have found themselves emb

17、roiled in a complicated and contentious new era in China.Having come to rely on the Chinese market to drive revenue in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic while depending heavily on domestic celebrities and major influencers(aka KOLs,or key opinion leaders)to promote their products,brands may now need

18、 to seriously reconsider their long-term marketing strategies.CHAPTER 1EXECUTIVE SUMMARYGovernment crackdowns can come rapidly in China,leaving brands rushing to comply.Image:ShutterstockAs 2022 approaches,question marks remain as brands wonder about the long-term effects of the celebrity and fan cu

19、lture crackdowns of 2021,and whether next years National Congress means the crackdown will show no signs of slowing for months or years.Do celebrity or influencer-led marketing campaigns even make sense anymore in China?What are the alternatives?Are“virtual idols”a better bet,or just a passing fad?A

20、nd what can brands do to minimize the potential of scandal in such a politically sensitive environment?This Insight Report looks at what Chinas crackdown on celebrity culture and the“fan economy”could ultimately mean for luxury,examining the possible implications for marketing efforts over the years

21、 to come.1 Laurie Ouellette.A Companion to Reality Television(London:John Wiley&Sons,2014),521.7CHAPTER 2JING DAILYTREND RATING 7CHAPTER 18The Jing Daily Trend Rating is tabulated based on risks and rewards of a given trend.In the context of Chinas current crackdown,we look at four key measurements:

22、three negative against one posi-tive:Negative:Ability of the trend to negatively influence luxury consumer behavior.Negative:The short-term potential for a revenue decline for luxury brands due to the trend.Negative:The long-term potential for a revenue decline for luxury brands due to the trend.Pos

23、itive:The potential for positive opportunity for brands as a result of the trend.Based on the current state of Chinas celebrity crackdown,Jing Daily assigned the following ratings to each measurement on a scale from 0 to 5:Consumer Influence:3.5/5(+3.5 points)While Beijing authorities may be crackin

24、g down on celebrity behavior and the“fan economy,”there is scant evidence thus far to suggest that the crackdown is making consumers less interested in celebrities or celebrity culture.However,the potential for greater scrutiny among authorities of“luxury lifestyles”may make some consumers put off l

25、uxury purchases in the months ahead or shy away from sharing their purchases publicly via social media.Potential For Short-Term Revenue Decline:4/5(+4 points)The crackdown may see luxury brands struggle with short-term revenue if the governments crackdown extends to putting brand marketing efforts u

26、nder the microscope while more actively championing CHAPTER 2JING DAILY TREND RATING local brands.Potential For Long-Term Revenue Decline:3/5(+3 points)Looking at the last 20 years of growth and evolution in the China luxury market,there are indications that the current crackdown may not extend in i

27、ts current state far beyond 2021,which is a politically sensitive year as the ruling Communist Party of China celebrates the centenary of its founding.With the Beijing Winter Olympics just around the corner,the war on celebrities and fan culture will likely have seen its most intense activity in lat

28、e summer 2021.As such,it is only moderately likely that luxury brands will see long-term revenue declines as a direct result of the crackdown.However,greater scrutiny of marketing messaging and brand ambassadors may force brands to work harder to choose the right spokespeople and avoid upsetting aut

29、horities with upcoming campaigns.Potential for Positive Opportunity:2/5(+3 points)While the current crackdown gives brands a chance to rethink their marketing,celebrity,and influencer strategies for China which could ultimately bring long-term benefits three points are deducted due to the additional

30、 stress and resource load required to retool strategies,recalibrate budgets,and potentially seek replacements for current brand ambassadors or influencers.(Total Points)/4=Trend Rating of 3/5 With a trend rating of 3.3 out of 5,the risk of Chinas celebrity crackdown is moderate for luxury brands.How

31、ever,as we outline in this report,regulations can change at the drop of a hat in China,meaning brands must plan ahead for a stricter marketing and advertising environment in the months ahead.CHAPTER 3INTRODUCTION9CHAPTER 310CHAPTER 3 INTRODUCTIONChinas latest crackdown on celebrities and fan culture

32、 did not appear out of thin air.Rather,it has been a drawn-out process,years in the making,that began long before the summer of 2021,which saw the arrest of megastar Kris Wu,the end of an era for the hugely popular idol competition show genre,and a slew of official commentaries,notic-es,and regulati

33、ons to control celebrities,content,and the so-called“fan economy.”Back in 2015,the powerful Central Committee of the Communist Party of China(CCCPC)issued a statement supporting President Xi Jinpings vision of patriotic and morality-infused entertainment,which had been outlined in a previously unpub

34、-lished speech from October 2014.Directives outlined in the CCCPCs document in-cluded a clear emphasis on the continued promo-2 China Film Insider.“Chinas Filmmakers Directed to Heed SocialismWill Hollywood Follow?”October 31,2015.https:/ arrest of superstar Kris Wu sent a chill through Chinas enter

35、tainment business in 2021.Image:Shutterstocktion of socialist values,patriotism,traditional Chi-nese culture,and the“Chinese dream”(中國夢),while warning against market-driven media trends and asserting the continued role of the Commu-nist party in guiding the development of the arts according to these

36、 principles.2 Over the course of 2015,there were clear indications that Chinas booming entertainment industry had no compunc-tion falling into line.In November of that year,the Chinese Alliance for Radio,Film,and Television(CARFT)organized a symposium in Beijing to pro-mote the self-discipline initi

37、ative,with high-profile representatives such as China Film Co.chief ex-ecutive Jiang Ping,superstar actress Fan Bingbing,11CHAPTER 3 INTRODUCTIONWolf Warrior and its sequel broke Chinese box office records.Image:PRand screenwriter Gao Mantang voicing support for the governments push for morally upri

38、ght and pa-triotic culture.3In the six years since,Chinas entertainment in-dustry has indeed pumped out an ever-increasing amount of patriotic content,with the countrys 2015 blockbuster Wolf Warrior and a 2017 se-quel breaking box-office records and inspiring the phrase“Wolf Warrior diplomacy”to des

39、cribe Bei-jings more assertive and aggressive presence on the world stage.4More importantly,Beijing has more recently turned its attention not only to more actively policing the content of films and television programs but also the popular and influential stars cast in them.In 3 China Film Insider.“

40、Chinese Stars Promise to Behave,Or Else.”November 15,2015.https:/ The Diplomat.“Interpreting Chinas Wolf-Warrior Diplomacy.”May 15,2020.https:/ The Guardian.“Chinese star Fan Bingbing reappears after near-ly a year in wilderness.”April 25,2019.https:/ what was perhaps the most significant ex-ample o

41、f muscle-flexing to date,Fan Bingbing(who had vowed to uphold morality and patriotism at the aforementioned CARFT symposium in 2015)disappeared from the public eye for nearly four months,having been placed under house arrest for tax evasion.Even after formally apologizing and paying a reported RMB 8

42、83 million($129 million)in fines and unpaid taxes,5 Fans reputation has yet to fully recover.12CHAPTER 3 INTRODUCTIONAlso in 2018,Chinese authorities announced a sal-ary cap for acting talent as part of a broader cam-paign against tax evasion and“money worship”in the film industry.6 This move saw th

43、e pay for actors in Chinese films and television programs capped at 40 percent of total production costs,with ac-tors in lead roles prohibited from receiving more than 70 percent of the total budget for the cast.Since then,Beijings unspoken message has been the same it doesnt matter how rich and int

44、er-nationally famous you are,if you step out of line or forget whos really in charge,well quickly remind you.Top actress Fan Bingbings 2018 tax scandal sent a chill through Chinas entertainment industry.Image:Shutterstock 6 BBC.“China caps film stars pay over money worship and tax evasion.”June 28,2

45、018.https:/ 3 INTRODUCTION7 SupChina.“Chinas Red New Deal:A guide to all the different crackdowns on companies going on right now.”September 9,2021 https:/ Laurie Ouellette.A Companion to Reality Television(London:John Wiley&Sons,2014),5219 Ibid.,534.10 CNBC.“China has launched another crackdown on

46、the inter-net but its different this time.”October 26,2017.https:/ The Diplomat.“China Looks Ahead to 20th Party Congress in 2022.”December 7,2020.https:/ tightened media environment of 2021 follows a consistent pattern.The aforementioned crack-down on competition reality shows in 2006 and 2007 took

47、 place in the lead-up to the 17th National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party(CCP),an event at which senior CCP members are ap-pointed and ahead of which the Party“always tightens controls on media and enacts measures to maintain the status quo.”8Indeed,media and entertainment crackdowns did ta

48、ke place ahead of the National Congress in both 2012 and 2017.In 2012,limits were placed on the total number of reality shows,variety shows,and talk shows that could appear on television as well as their air time.9 In 2017,an even more wide-rang-ing clampdown targeted video streaming websites,virtua

49、l private networks(VPNs),and foreign televi-sion programs.10 With the 20th National Congress set to take place in October 2022,11 there is prec-edent to expect the media and entertainment at-mosphere in mainland China will remain tense in the months leading up to the event.In many ways,the 2021 tech

50、,business,and entertainment crackdowns reinforce the essential traits of the Chinese Communist Party on the centenary of its founding:its commitment to ideological conformity and intolerance of regime challenges.Yet much of the activity,seemingly directed by the top leader,X Jnpng,and his Common Pro

51、sperity agenda,is driven by the need to address the extreme wealth inequality that came with four decades of capital-fueled growth.7As SupChina noted in September 2021:CHAPTER 4AN ENTRENCHED CELEBRITYCULTURE14CHAPTER 415CHAPTER 4AN ENTRENCHED CELEBRITY CULTUREChinas celebrity culture and its attenda

52、nt“fan economy”(粉絲經濟)is among the most active in the world,with top entertainers boasting legions of diehard fans willing to buy virtually anything theyre selling to show their support and ensure the continued commercial success of their favorite stars.In the years since the governments 2015 directi

53、ve on the arts,Chinese celebrities have only grown more influential thanks to the rise of domestic social media and content platforms such as Weibo,Douyin(TikToks Chinese counterpart),and Bilibili.Meanwhile the major video streaming platforms owned by tech giants Baidu,Alibaba,and Tencent have produ

54、ced an ever-increasing supply of idol competitions,hit dramas,and reality shows that both mint new stars and give existing celebrities greater visibility,while also fueling rise of the fan economy through cross-platform promotion and sponsorships.Chinese government regulators were bound to step in a

55、t some point.As much as they have promoted the development of Chinas entertainment infrastructure and the production and distribution of“created-in-China”content,they also loathe the prospect of any competing center of power.As a result,Chinas vibrant and sometimes unruly fan culture,coupled with a

56、spate of celebrity scandals,have provided Beijing with an opportunity to take a more forceful approach than in years past.Young Chinese fans can make or break a new stars career.Image:Shutterstock16CHAPTER 5CHAPTER 5WHY THE FAN ECONOMY MATTERS17CHAPTER 5WHY THE FAN ECONOMY MATTERSWhat exactly is the

57、“fan economy”?According to China Daily,at its simplest level,the fan economy is a business model“that seeks to profit from fans devotion to celebrities.”12 But this translates to more than just fans spending money to see a celebritys new film or buy their merchandise the fan economy in China is,esse

58、ntially,a two-way street in which a celebritys success is gauged by how large,vocal,and enthusiastic his or her fan base is.In this symbiotic relationship,celebrities rely heavily on their fan bases to obtain more work and greater commercial value(e.g.,through brand sponsorships),with their fans hap

59、py to help by any means necessary to ensure that their favorite stars can appear in as many advertisements,films,and programs as possible.The celebrities success is their success.Celebrities in China arguably depend far more on the fervor of their fans than in any other market.Image:ShutterstockThis

60、 gives fans a remarkable amount of power in launching and sustaining a celebritys career,and Chinese entertainment agencies have been eager to tap this power to cultivate up-and-coming stars,with agencies as well as film and TV studios organizing official clubs.As of 2020,Chinas fan economy was esti

61、mated to be worth around RMB 100 billion($15.5 billion).1312 China Daily.“粉絲經濟(fns jngj):Fan economy.”May 18,2018.http:/ Sina.“愛奇藝宣布取消選秀節目 QQ音樂限制專輯購買 粉絲經濟要走到頭了?”August 30,2021.https:/ 5WHY THE FAN ECONOMY MATTERSTo understand the importance of Chinas fan economy,one must only look to who appears in

62、recent campaigns for global luxury brands.Over the past five years,in the China market Hollywood stars have been steadily replaced,almost entirely,by local faces,particularly young actors and C-pop stars with deeply devoted fan followings.In October of 2016,British luxury brand Burberry appointed th

63、e Canadian-Chinese rapper Kris Wu(more on him later)as its global brand ambassador,making him the groups first non-British spokesperson.More recently,Chanel brought on 24-year-old actor Wang Yibo as brand ambassador,while Givenchy collaborated with popular young stars Fan Chengcheng(b.2000,brother o

64、f Fan Bingbing)and Ouyang Nana(b.2000).Collaborating with a young Chinese entertainer with an ardent fan base has become a shortcut Burberrys nearly five-year association with Kris Wu brought it to the attention of his millions of social media followers.Image:Burberryto success for brands hoping to

65、reinvigorate sales.In 2019,Prada was struggling to turn around deteriorating growth in the Chinese market when it appointed young idol Cai Xukun(aka Kun,b.1998)as its newest brand ambassador.14 Within 24 hours,news of the announcement had racked up 730 million views on Weibo,while a campaign video f

66、eaturing Kun drew more than 76 million views.In a matter of weeks,Cais fans had shared posts of more than 50,000 shopping receipts for Prada goods,and the brands keychain featuring the name“Kun”sold out worldwide.In an interview with Chinas GQ Lab,Miuccia Prada noted that“fans dont know about Prada

67、through us;they know Prada through Kun.”1514 Vogue Business.“Prada turnaround struggles to take hold in China.”August 1,2019.https:/ Jing Daily.“How Luxury Brands Prosper From Chinas Scary C-Pop Fans.”July 2,2021.https:/ 5WHY THE FAN ECONOMY MATTERSFans proudly supporting the brands promoted by thei

68、r favorite idols by sharing their receipts has become a common fan-club activity,albeit one the Chinese government has an eye on.In June 2021,one hashtag community for actor and singer Wang Yibo(#王一博粉絲曬單#,or“Wang Yibos fans receipt center”)featuring proofs of purchase for everything the idol promote

69、s,from Chanel watches to Kentucky Fried Chicken meals surpassed two million posts.16The growing presence of C-pop stars in luxury campaigns is perhaps no surprise,considering the increasing spending power of their core demographics,“post-90s”and“post-00s”Chinese consumers in their late teens and ear

70、ly to mid-20s.But more broadly,the choice of these celebrities to head up luxury campaigns is representative of the shift in the balance of power towards the Pradas collaboration with Cai Xukun was a massive success for the brand.Image:PradaGreater China market over the past decade,more significantl

71、y since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in early 2020.With China a rare bright spot for many luxury brands over the past two years,harnessing the fan economy to spur sales was a natural move.16 Ibid20CHAPTER 5WHY THE FAN ECONOMY MATTERS20CHAPTER 6THE DARK SIDE OF THE FAN ECONOMYCHAPTER 621CHAPTER

72、 6THE DARK SIDE OF THE FAN ECONOMYHowever,the fan economy has also been ripe for exploitation,particularly as both supply of and demand for reality shows especially idol competition shows ballooned in China.Major brands paid heavily to sponsor these shows and sought to recoup their investments by le

73、veraging the fervor of fans to make purchases as a way of obtaining extra votes that they could cast for their favored contestants.However,in May 2021 this strategy backfired spectacularly during the third season of iQiyis hugely popular idol competition,Youth With You 青春有你.Title sponsor Mengniu,one

74、 of Chinas biggest dairy producers,offered additional votes via QR codes found on the inside of the bottle caps in a line of flavored milk drinks.While the product itself appealed to young consumers,fan groups took it to the next level,engaging in massive coordinated group-buying efforts.But without

75、 an actual need for the products,in many cases the purchased milk was simply discarded.A video depicting huge quantities of the Mengniu drinks being dumped into a drainage ditch by a group of mostly middle-aged women(apparently hired by the fans)went viral on Chinese social media,leading authorities

76、 to order a halt to the filming of the shows highly anticipated finale and drawing sharp rebukes from across state media.In response to the Youth With You crackdown,more than 200 fan clubs including those of Cai Xukun,Jackson Wang,and Ouyang Nana released initial The“Youth With You”milk scandal show

77、ed how easily a fan base can go out of control.Image:iQiyiproposals to protect the long-term sustainability of Chinas idol industry.These included calls to“maintain a boundary between real life and online platforms,”respect celebrity privacy,promote“rational speech,”and end cyberbullying.While no lu

78、xury brands were immediately affected as a result of the Youth With You scandal,the incident highlighted the potential dangers faced by brands when looking to harness the fan economy to drive revenue,specifically since some fans have shown themselves happy to do whatever it takes to promote their fa

79、vorite idol,even quite literally throwing money down the drain.Choosing a brand ambassador based on the size and enthusiasm of his or her fan base is far from a foolproof plan.In the spring of 2020,Este Lauder and Olay were among the major brands caught in the crossfire of a fan dispute involving Xi

80、ao Zhan,one of Chinas most popular young celebrities.The actor and singer,who rose to fame after starring in Tencent Videos hit 2019 fantasy drama The Untamed 陳情令,quickly became one of Chinas most bankable stars and made deals with numerous brands.The Mengniu milk drink that caused the Youth With Yo

81、u season 3 controversy.Source:Tmall store 真果粒旗艦店22CHAPTER 6THE DARK SIDE OF THE FAN ECONOMYYet Chinas fan economy ultimately backfired on these brands via a convoluted chain of events.On February 29,the U.S.-based nonprofit fan-fiction site Archive of Our Own(AO3)was suddenly blocked in China after

82、being accessible in the country since its founding more than a decade ago.Members of the AO3 community in China were quick to pin the blame on Xiaos fans,believing that they had reported the site to authorities over sexually explicit content that was hurting Xiaos reputation,such as fan-written stor

83、ies that portrayed Xiao engaged in a homosexual relationship with his Untamed costar Wang Yibo.To retaliate over the loss of AO3,an expansive campaign to boycott Xiao was launched on Weibo and quickly became a top trending topic,drawing more than 220 million views and 306,000 comments within days,al

84、ong with related calls to A fanfic controversy caused headaches for numerous brands in China due to no fault of their own.Image:陳情令 official Weiboshun any brands associated with Xiao.Although Xiaos 20-plus endorsements included many consumer brands such as Crest,Lays,and Budweiser,his higher-profile

85、 relationships with beauty labels Olay and Este Lauder were more frequently called out on Weibo as targets of attack.Although the controversy ultimately blew over with little damage to Olay,Este Lauder,or Xiao Zhan(who kept a low profile for several months before returning to the spotlight),the inci

86、dent caused the brands involved significant distraction at a time at a time when they were gearing up for major marketing campaigns around the International Womens Day holiday on March 8.23CHAPTER 7THE ROAD TO CHINAS CELEBRITY CRACKDOWNCHAPTER 724CHAPTER 7THE ROAD TO CHINAS CELEBRITY CRACKDOWNChinas

87、 crackdown on celebrity culture and the fan economy came amid several other crackdowns in 2021,a year of heightened political sensitivity with the centenary of the founding of the Communist Party of China.17 First to incur the wrath of Beijing was the Alibaba-affiliated Ant Group,which saw its plann

88、ed November 2020 IPO suspended following comments from founder Jack Ma that criticized Chinese regulators.Attention turned next to Chinas booming e-commerce market,putting the monopolistic business practices of Alibaba and competitors like Tencent under the microscope and resulting in a record-break

89、ing$2.8 billion fine for Alibaba for abusing its dominant market position.18A slew of additional regulatory activity has targeted unfair competition,consumer protection,data security and privacy,gaming,online tutoring,Alibaba was first in Chinas firing line as a string of crackdowns began in late 20

90、20.Image:Shutterstockand“wealth flaunting,”all signs pointing to the governments desire to strictly manage a wide range of sectors.17 Chinese government website.http:/ CNBC.“Alibaba shares rise 6%in U.S.premarket trading after$2.8 billion anti-monopoly fine.”April 11,2021.https:/ 7THE ROAD TO CHINAS

91、 CELEBRITY CRACKDOWNTHE XINJIANG COTTON CONTROVERSYEven brands that strive to remain apolitical can be unwittingly dragged into a highly politicized controversy in China and face damage that can impact sales for weeks,months,or even longer.In March 2021,some global brands with sizable retail footpri

92、nts in mainland China were on the receiving end of a nationalistic backlash over their stance on the use of cotton sourced from the northwestern Xinjiang region of China.Nike,for example,was found to have voiced concerns about using supplies from the region19 while H&M had ceased use of Xinjiang cot

93、ton.20With these companies quickly facing boycotts H&M was among the brands hardest hit by the Xinjiang cotton controversy of spring 2021.Image:Shutterstockencouraged by the central government in Beijing and undoubtedly by opportunistic local brands looking to leverage the nationalistic fervor virtu

94、ally any foreign brand that had made a statement in the past about Xinjiang(or failed to make a statement overtly supporting Xinjiang cotton)was dragged into the fray.The scrutiny expanded to members of the Better Cotton Initiative(BCI),a non profit governance group promoting better cotton farming s

95、tandards and practices across 21 countries,including China which had previously suggested that cotton from the Xinjiang region is controversial.19 Nike statement on Xinjiang.https:/ BBC.“Nike,H&M face China fury over Xinjiang cotton concerns.”March 25,2021.https:/ 7THE ROAD TO CHINAS CELEBRITY CRACK

96、DOWNBurberry ambassador Zhou Dongyu stepped down as a result of the Xinjiang cotton boycott.Image:Shutterstock21 South China Morning Post.“Xinjiang cotton controversy spills into virtual battle,as Tencent removes Burberry outfit from Honour of Kings,Chinas top game.”March 25,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.

97、“Whats Burberrys Next Step in China?”July 13,2021.https:/ Business of Fashion.“Burberry,H&M,Nike and Others Lose China Ambassadors Over Xinjiang.”March 25,2021.https:/ Fashion Network.“Burberry not hurt by Xinjiang cotton row says CEO.”May 14,2021.https:/ the boycott brigade came for BCI member Burb

98、erry which has long made it a policy not to use materials from the Xinjiang region21 the brand saw a hotly anticipated collaboration with Tencents hit game Honor of Kings cancelled just days before its official launch.Meanwhile,perhaps under pressure to prove their patriotism,some of Chinas biggest

99、celebrities began posting messages of support for Xinjiang cotton and chastised brands that failed to do the same.Within days,a number of fashion brands lost their China brand ambassadors,with Burberry seeing the departure of popular young actresses Zhou Dongyu and Song Weilong.22 Others that lost t

100、heir Chinese representatives included Adidas(Dilraba Dilmurat,Eason Chan,and Liu Yifen),Uniqlo(Ni Ni,Jing Boran,and Wang Yuan)and Calvin Klein and Converse(Lay Zhang).23Burberry chief Marco Gobbetti conceded in May that the Xinjiang cotton controversy had presented a challenging situation for the br

101、and,telling analysts that the business“had to and will continue to navigate through”the issues in China while noting that its ultimate impact on revenue had been“limited.”24Like many politically charged events in China,the Xinjiang cotton controversy blew over fairly quickly.However,brands that were

102、 blindsided learned an important lesson in the need to always have some sort of contingency plan for boycotts that are initiated or supported by the government in the future.27CHAPTER 8CELEBRITIES IN THE CROSSHAIRSCHAPTER 828CHAPTER 8CELEBRITIES IN THE CROSSHAIRSWhile authorities had cracked down on

103、 celebrities before(see Chapter 3,Introduction),2021 saw a number of high-profile“cancellations”of stars with strong connections to major luxury brands.Within a local context of slowing income growth and soaring living costs,media censors began to clamp down more strictly on content depicting extrav

104、agant lifestyles on social media.In May,Su Mang,the former editor-in-chief of Bazaar China,faced a significant backlash after remarking on a cooking show that a RMB 650($100)budget was not enough for breakfast.25 That same month,in an attempt to tame an outbreak of celebrity and fandom scandals,Beij

105、ing authorities launched a media crackdown initiative called“Qinglang”清朗,aiming to remove all celebrity content that potentially promotes negative values to the countrys youth,such as reckless spending and drug use.26Former Bazaar China editor-in-chief Su Mang was among the celebrities who faced a w

106、idespread backlash in 2021.Image:Su Mang WeiboMultiple celebrity scandals compounded in August.Perhaps the most stunning turn of events came when aforementioned pop star Kris Wu a go-to brand ambassador for brands like Porsche,Louis Vuitton and Bvlgari was detained by Beijing police on suspicion of

107、sexual misconduct following explosive allegations that he“repeatedly seduced young women into sexual relations.”27 Even before his arrest,Wus social media accounts were deleted and brands swiftly moved to distance themselves from the 30-year-old,with Bvlgari replacing Wu with You Are My Glory star Y

108、ang Yang.2825 South China Morning Post.“Chinese celebrity pay scandal:backlash after famous editor complains on reality TV show that daily meal allowance not enough.”May 26,2021.https:/ G.“國家網信辦部署開展“清朗”系列專項行動.”May 9,2021.http:/ Jing Daily.“What the Kris Wu Scandal Says About China.”August 2,2021.htt

109、ps:/ Jing Daily.“Bulgari Says Goodbye,Kris Wu,Hello,Yang Yang.”September 9,2021.https:/ 8CELEBRITIES IN THE CROSSHAIRSYoung actor Zhang Zhehan was caught up in a Yasukuni Shrine controversy in August 2021.Image:WeiboWu was not the only star to see his reputation tumble overnight.On August 12,actor Z

110、hang Zhehan,fresh off a star-making turn in the hit fantasy costume drama series Word of Honor,found himself embroiled in a serious political controversy after Instagram posts of his visit to the Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo a symbol of Japans war legacy were exposed on Weibo.Though Zhang issued a publi

111、c apology letter claiming he was sorry for his ignorance about the historical background of the shrine,the state-owned Peoples Daily immediately wrote that“as a public figure,Zhang has been deficient in historical knowledge,and completely unaware of the nations trauma,which is totally unreasonable.”

112、29 Soon after,rapper and singer Lucas Huang a brand ambassador for Guerlain announced on Instagram and Weibo that he would be pausing all promotional activities and conducting“deep self-reflection”after women who claimed to have been his girlfriends accused him of cheating and gaslighting them.3028

113、Jing Daily.“After Kris Wu,Zhang Zhehan Is the Next Luxury Headache in China.”August 13,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“Luxury Friend Lucas Huang Blasted For Bad Be-havior.”August 25,2021.https:/ 8CELEBRITIES IN THE CROSSHAIRSAlso caught up in scandal in August was actress Zheng Shuang,who was fined almost

114、RMB 300 million($46.4 million)for tax evasion,following a high-profile surrogacy scandal at the beginning of 2021 that saw her blacklisted and dropped by Prada as a brand ambassador.31 Although Prada moved quickly to distance itself from Zheng,the brands shares fell 1.7 percent on the Hong Kong stoc

115、k market on the day her scandal broke.32 Meanwhile,A-list actress and Fendi brand ambassador Zhao Wei suddenly vanished from Chinas internet,with her name removed from all her works on Chinese video platforms and her social media accounts scrubbed,for reasons that,as of October 2021,still remain unk

116、nown.Celebrities arent going anywhere in China,but the events of late summer 2021 indicate that brands need to be more cautious than ever in who they choose to work with,lest they get caught up in a scandal that results in negative attention.A-list actress and producer Zhao Wei was caught up in an a

117、s-yet-undisclosed scandal in August 2021.Image:Shutterstock31 CNN.“Accused of abandoning two babies in the US,this Chi-nese celebrity has sparked a national debate about surrogacy.”January 23,2021.https:/ Greads.“深度|在未來，品牌還需要“流量藝人”嗎?”October 28,2021.http:/ 9CLAMPING DOWN ON THE FAN ECONOMY AND“SISSY

118、 MEN”CHAPTER 932CHAPTER 9CLAMPING DOWN ON THE FAN ECONOMY AND“SISSY MEN”In addition to cracking down on celebrity behavior,in 2021 China also took aim at two closely interlinked phenomena that have become impossible for brands to ignore in recent years:“little fresh meat”(小鮮肉)male idols and the fan

119、economy that surrounds them.Best defined as handsome young male celebrities whose appearances belie traditionally masculine aesthetics,“little fresh meat”idols have become brand darlings in recent years.One of the earliest breakout stars was singer and actor Lu Han(b.1990),who has worked with Gucci,

120、Louis Vuitton,and Cartier,33 while a more recent favorite is Chanel brand ambassador Wang Yibo(b.1997),who has donned the brands iconic womenswear in TV shows and on magazine covers to exalt a fashion-forward look that defies gendered expectations.Wang famously paired a pink Chanel jacket with a min

121、i purse on the reality show Street Dance of Luxury ambassadors are often called“Little Fresh Meat.”But if China has its way,there could be a shift away from these androgynous stars.Photo:Cai Xukuns WeiboChina and wore a womens tweed jacket to a red carpet event held by Tencent.34For several years,Ch

122、inese authorities have been railing against the cultural influence of androgynous K-pop stars.In 2016,the countrys 13th Five-Year Plan instructed the Ministry of Education to“study the influence of the phenomenon of Internet celebrities on youth values and countermeasures,”35 and in 2019,state-run C

123、hinese media condemned“little fresh meat”idols and K-pop stars,calling 33 Jing Daily.“6 Male Luxury Brand Ambassadors in China You Need to Know.”October 11,2017.https:/ South China Morning Post.“Why are Li Xian and Wang Yibo wearing womens clothes?Male Chinese celebrities are leading a gender-neutra

124、l fashion trend at odds with the countrys anti-K-pop traditional values.”August 30,2021.https:/ Chinese government website.“中華人民共和國國民經濟和社會發展第十三個五年規劃綱要.”March 17,2016.http:/ 9CLAMPING DOWN ON THE FAN ECONOMY AND“SISSY MEN”them“sissy pants”and warning that a“sick”and“decadent”culture would threaten th

125、e nations future.36The official stance hardened in 2021,and plans for legislation to prevent male“feminization”were revealed during government meetings earlier in the year.37 Although vague,the announcement indicated more complicated times ahead for brands,particularly in the beauty space,that have

126、come to rely on using male brand ambassadors to promote their products in China.The budding war against“little fresh meat”also ties into the governments concerns over the fan economy,bringing simultaneous crackdowns on both as it is the rabid fans of young idols driving the mass purchases of the bra

127、nds they endorse(see Chapter 6,The Dark Side of the Fan Economy).In the midst of the multiple celebrity scandals of August 2021,the Cyberspace Administration of China(CAC)released ten measures to further regulate the fan economy,with a ban on all celebrity ranking lists at the top.This was a highly

128、significant move,as a major motivator for fan clubs in China was competing to help their favorite stars top the charts.But the measure was also a setback for brands as well as marketing agencies that relied on celebrity rankings to decide who to work with.K-pop groups like BTS have been highly influ

129、ential in China,but officials hardening stance against“little fresh meat”stars could nip that in the bud.Image:Shutterstock36 South China Morning Post.“Chinese boys train to be real men to fight the BTS idol effect,but the make-up could be here to stay.”May 8,2019.https:/ New York Times.“A Masculini

130、ty Crisis?China Says the Boys Are Not All Right.”February 5,2021.https:/ 9CLAMPING DOWN ON THE FAN ECONOMY AND“SISSY MEN”Fans of popular brand ambassador Wang Yibo caused a scandal by fighting with another stars fan club in 2021,hastening the fan club crackdown.Image:ShutterstockThe CACs August meas

131、ures also included key provisions targeting star management companies and the behavior of fan clubs,including a prohibition on online fighting between rival groups.This move was likely hastened by a Weibo spat during which fans of actress Zhao Liying harassed fans of Wang Yibo after being upset by a

132、 rumored upcoming collaboration,deeming the stars previous partnership a failure.38On September 2,in perhaps the strongest-ever salvo against young male idols,the National Radio and Television Administration(NRTA)issued a directive banning“effeminate men and other abnormal aesthetics”from appearing

133、on entertainment programs,signaling in essence an official end to the reign of“little fresh meat”idols.39 That same day,the Communist Partys propaganda department elaborated on the NRTAs directive with a notice to prevent“performing artists who have made moral missteps”(失德藝人)from returning to the en

134、tertainment industry.The notice also bars minors from becoming members of idol groups and participating in talent competition shows and fan club activities,following a recent controversy over Panda Boys,a Chengdu-based boy band with members between the ages of 7 and 11 that drew heavy criticism and

135、was disbanded within days of its debut.4038 South China Morning Post.“Thousands of Weibo accounts suspended after online battle between celebrity fan bases.”August 27,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“China Bans Effeminate Men and Abnormal Esthet-ics From TV.”September 2,2021.https:/ Vice.“Half of This Boy B

136、ands Singers Are 7 Years Old.Is It Child Labor?”August 25,2021.https:/ 9CLAMPING DOWN ON THE FAN ECONOMY AND“SISSY MEN”Major streaming platforms took rapid steps to comply with the governments wishes,with iQiyi announcing that it would cancel all of its idol competition shows for the next few years.

137、Although iQiyis main rivals,Tencent Video and Youku,had yet to make similar announcements as of early October 2021,the latest directive from NRTA might be making those decisions for them.Meanwhile,Tencent Music blocked users from repeated purchases of digital albums,another blow to a fan economy tha

138、t often saw followers buy multiple copies to support their favorite performers and boost their chart rankings.Since August 2021,celebrity rankings and fan groups have rapidly disappeared from popular platforms such as Weibo and Douyin,with the CACs new directives allowing only specific works to be r

139、anked by popularity(without any mention of individual performers).Major streaming platforms are rushing to keep up with government regulations.Image:ShutterstockJing DailyAll of this could mean the value of Chinas fan economy,estimated at RMB 100 billion($15.5 billion)in 2020,could shrink considerab

140、ly as a result of the latest crackdowns.Already,the number of newly registered celebrity agencies has witnessed a notable decline:just 265 as of late September 2021,compared to more than 1,000 annually over the last five years,peaking at more than 3,000 in 2018.41 For brands,Chinas crackdown on the

141、fan economy means fewer opportunities for marketing in China.The days when newly minted stars could snap up dozens of endorsement deals and quickly promote brands to their followers are gone.Instead,brands will have to take a longer-term view or engage in more heated competition to partner with the

142、few remaining“safe”celebrities.Meanwhile,the end of the idol competition show era means that a key source for new stars has dried up.41 Sina.“愛奇藝宣布取消選秀節目 QQ音樂限制專輯購買 粉絲經濟要走到頭了?”August 30,2021.https:/ of Newely Registrated Celebrity Agencies in China,2015-202136CHAPTER 10WHERE DO LUXURY BRANDS GO FROM

143、 HERE?CHAPTER 1037CHAPTER 10WHERE DO LUXURY BRANDS GO FROM HERE?The likelihood of a stricter crackdown on celebrities and the lifestyles they represent should be a key concern for any luxury brand active in China today.In the early days of Xi Jinpings presidency,lavish gift-giving and expensive purc

144、hases among government bureaucrats were targeted,sending shockwaves through Chinas luxury market at a time when the country was emerging as a driver of growth for global brands.42 According to regulators,the recent rules against idol programs and“abnormal aesthetics”on television are also designed t

145、o address problems like wealth flaunting and celebrity worship while cultivating greater respect for morality.Beijing could continue to increase its focus on areas where content,culture,and commerce interact.Namely,the government will likely step An area of concern for luxury brands is whether China

146、 will implement stricter regulations against“wealth flaunting.”Image:Shutterstockup its support and promotion of local brands at a time when for the luxury sector in particular global brands have become heavily dependent on the mainland Chinese market.China has already seen a long-term consumer shif

147、t towards local brands,which came to a head in early 2021 when global giants like Burberry found themselves embroiled in the Xinjiang cotton controversy(see page 26).Former Burberry ambassador Zhou Dongyu explained her rationale for breaking her contract with Burberry by saying 42 Jing Daily.“Luxury

148、 Gift-Giving In China:Down,But Definitely Not Out.”January 17,2013.https:/ 10WHERE DO LUXURY BRANDS GO FROM HERE?that the brand had not“clearly and publicly stated its stance on cotton from Xinjiang.”43 With other global players such as Nike also caught up in the imbroglio,local rivals such as Li Ni

149、ng and Anta saw their sales spike,once again underscoring how international brands are always just a scandal or crackdown away from a revenue slump in China.Foreign brands are operating in a more complex environment in China that has only become more challenging in the aftermath of the coronavirus p

150、andemic.Chinas rebound from the pandemic from the summer of 2020 onwards brought with it an associated outburst of national pride that fueled an uptick of interest in Guochao(“national trend”)brands and products that incorporate specifically Chinese cultural elements.Additionally,the economic downtu

151、rn in overseas markets further prompted Chinese brands to shift their focus to domestic demand,in line with the governments efforts to drive consumer spending.According to data from iiMedia Research,more than half of consumers surveyed prefer to purchase Chinese brands on e-commerce platforms or off

152、icial online stores,and e-commerce platforms have courted this trend with aplomb.Since 2018,Alibaba and Tmall have launched an annual Guochao plan to support Chinese brands,with extensive campaigns promoting local champions.44To date,rising brand nationalism in China has yet to impact global luxury

153、brands as much as it has the likes of Nike or H&M.While China boasts world-class designers who are founding their own labels and taking their collections to fashion weeks in London,Milan,New York,and Paris,a domestic powerhouse brand has yet to emerge that can rival Herms or Louis Vuitton in the eye

154、s of Chinese consumers.45 However,there are indications that luxury brands are unlikely to escape the current crackdown environment scot-free.43 Reuters.“Burberry becomes first luxury brand to suffer Chi-nese backlash over Xinjiang.”March 26,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.Chinese Cultural Consumers:The Fut

155、ure of Luxury.September 1,2021.https:/ South China Morning Post.“Chinas millennials embrace local brands as fast fashion giants like H&M face changing tastes.”September 22,2021.https:/ CBC.“Canada Goose fined by China for misleading consum-ers about parka material.”September 8,2021.https:/www.cbc.ca

156、/news/business/canada-goose-china-1.6168160Domestic Chinese brands like Li Ning looked to take advantage of controversies that ensnared foreign rivals in 2021.Image:ShutterstockSince the Xinjiang cotton controversy of spring 2021,other actions by regulators have indicated how higher-end brands could

157、 find themselves in sticky situations.In September 2021,Toronto-based Canada Goose was fined RMB 450,000(approximately$70,000)for allegedly misleading consumers about the materials it uses in its popular down jackets.While only obliquely related,the punishment was referenced in Canadian press alongs

158、ide broader punitive action targeting Canada in response to the detainment of Huawei CFO Meng Wanzhou(who was ultimately released in late September 2021).4639CHAPTER 10WHERE DO LUXURY BRANDS GO FROM HERE?Canada Goose is just one brand to get caught up in a minor,although annoying and time-consuming,

159、scandal in China in recent months.Image:ShutterstockLuxury brands must take care to check and double-check the language of their marketing materials,lest they find themselves caught up on the receiving end of negative publicity and a symbolic,but still annoying,fine.What all of this means for the ye

160、ar ahead is that luxury brands will need to be extremely careful about what they say in China and who they hire to say it for them.As in previous years,a sensitive geopolitical environment means that brands could find themselves caught up in government-initiated or“encouraged”boycott scenarios at th

161、e drop of a hat in 2022.With international travel unlikely to reach pre-pandemic levels for Chinese tourist-shoppers for the next 12 to 18 months47 an estimated 100 million mainland Chinese tourists will travel abroad in 2021,down from 155 million in 201948 the domestic retail market remains key to

162、driving sales.Right now,Beijing arguably has more power than ever to crack down on luxury brands that say something they dont like(or hire someone they dont like)in marketing campaigns.47 McKinsey&Company.“Chinas uneven travel recovery:Long road to international travel furthers domestic opportunitie

163、s.”August 30,2021.https:/ Orioly.“100 Million Chinese Are Expected to Travel Abroad in 2021.”December 3,2020.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGCHAPTER 1141CHAPTER 11THE SILVER LININGExpert“sneakerheads”are hugely influential in driving sales for sought-after footwear in China.Image:ShutterstockDespite forc

164、ing a major rethink of marketing with celebrities,the ongoing crackdown may ultimately be a net positive for luxury brands in China,forcing them to get more creative about who they want to represent them,rather than simply enlisting the hottest new idol or jumping on every viral trend.Streetwear,Sne

165、akers,and KOCsAlready,a significant amount of marketing innovation in China has come from streetwear and sneaker culture,where subject matter experts and enthusiasts are establishing themselves as influential trendsetters who can also move products.A growing number of deeply knowledgeable Chinese co

166、nsumers have successfully leveraged their expertise by launching their own online stores to resell sought-after sneakers,accompanied by chat pages that invite customers and other sneakerheads to share comments and ideas.This type of knowledgeable individual,who is happy to share opinion on style,bra

167、nds,and trends,is known in China as a Key Opinion Consumer(KOC).Unlike key opinion leaders(KOLs),who can have tens of thousands to millions of followers,KOCs may just have a few hundred social media followers,yet they are likely to be seen as more trustworthy owing to their more authentic content.49

168、 In the West,KOCs are also known as 49 Daxue Consulting.“KOC marketing in China often gets more bang for the buck than KOL marketing.”October 21,2020.https:/ 11THE SILVER LINING“Genuinfluencers”who are more interested in“sharing advice,discussing their passions and spreading unbiased information,rat

169、her than pushing a new product or collection”.50In fast-growing yet still niche communities such as the one revolving around rare sneakers,previously obscure KOCs have become top influencers,offering luxury brands the possibility of turning to experts within specific communities to promote new lines

170、 or collections.In-House Content CreationAlong the same lines,Chinas current crackdown-heavy environment offers brands an opportunity to experiment with a strategy that was more widely adopted during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic:in-house influencers.When stores were shuttered and events c

171、anceled during Chinas 2020 lockdowns,brands and merchants quickly flocked to platforms such as Taobao Live and Douyin to stream video from their showrooms,deputizing in-house staff as expert“hosts.”This strategy could prove highly effective for brands interested in the KOC route but concerned that t

172、he individual will be less well-versed in the brand than an in-house staff member or be unable to accurately answer questions.Other brands have gone further than just taking influencer marketing in-house,opting to build extensive content infrastructures.In March 2021,the Procter&Gamble-owned Japanes

173、e cosmetics brand SK-II announced the launch of its own production arm,SK-II STUDIO,with a mission to explore the current social pressures and challenges faced by women.The studios first short film,The Center Lane,directed by former Palme dOr winner Hirokazu Koreeda,drew a positive response from Chi

174、nese audiences,attracting more than 3 million views for the#SK-IIstudio hashtag on Weibo.51 Japanese cosmetic brand SK-II launched its in-house movie studio in 2021.Image:SK-II50 Vogue Business.“Meet the“genuinfluencers”who dont want to sell you anything.”August 9,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“SK-II Laun

175、ches a New Film Studio to Explore Brand Storytelling.”April 2,2021.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGAthlete InfluencersElite athletes are another influential group that more luxury brands may turn to amid the celebrity crackdown.With outdoor and winter sports lines and brand collaborations becoming a gold

176、mine for luxury brands in China,brands may look more to high-profile athletes,particularly in the run-up to the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing and after,as a new crop of medal-winning Chinese athletes is set to draw much adoration from patriotic fans.However,they will not be completely spared from

177、the ongoing crackdown.On September 30,the Chinese Olympic Committee warned in a statement that fans should“chase Olympic stars rationally and avoid improper words and deeds,”noting that“recently,out of their love for national team athletes,fans have displayed excessive behaviors in public areas such

178、 as airports,such as pulling and pushing athletes,which has caused a negative social impact.”52So far,there is little indication that the central government is quite as concerned about foreign athletes as it is about foreign celebrities.As such,luxury brands may enlist more sports stars such as 18-y

179、ear-old British tennis phenom Emma Raducanu(whose mother is Chinese)for upcoming campaigns in China(Tiffany&Co.has already snapped her up as a global ambassador.53)British tennis phenom Emma Raducanu was named a Tiffany&Co.brand ambassador in September 2021.Image:Emma Raducanu Instagram52 Reuters.“C

180、hina tells fans chase stars rationally.”October 1,2021.https:/ Tatler.“Shes got the Midas touch:Emma Raducanu sparkles ever brighter with Tiffanys deal.”September 21,2021.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGArtists and CreativesCollaborating with notable Chinese artists and creative talents presents an oppor

181、tunity for luxury brands to highlight their cultural awareness in the burgeoning post-”little fresh meat”era.For example,beauty and fragrance brand Byredo partnered with artist and photographer Chen Man to develop a CGI avatar in the iridescent shades of its latest makeup collection in September 202

182、1,54 while Burberry worked with five young Chinese photographers to create a series of brand films highlighting local musicians in late 2020.55Collaborating with emerging Chinese artists is proving to be a popular marketing strategy to reach Chinas young and culturally savvy consumers.In February 20

183、21,Net-a-Porter partnered with Shanghais ART021 to launch the“Incredible Female Artist Award,”a competition aimed at elevating the profile of contemporary female Chinese artists,with actress Tan Zhuo as project ambassador and judge.56 Ahead of the Sothebys Impressionist,Modern,and Contemporary Art a

184、uction series in New York in the spring of 2021,LVMH-owned Spanish brand Loewe collaborated with the auction house on a collection of artisan-crafted clay chestnut roasters as interpreted by three emerging artists from around the world,including Chinas Min Chen.57Other brands are finding success wor

185、king with established artists,such as Hennessy,which teamed up with contemporary Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang on a colorful daytime pyrotechnic display that saw the artist set off 20,000 fireworks from the surface of the Charente River in France to celebrate 150 years of Hennessy X.O.cognac.58 In Se

186、ptember 2020,Prada teamed up with Chinese filmmaker Jia Zhangke on an installment of its Prada Mode private club pop-ups at its Prada Rong Zhai space in Shanghai,with around 2,000 VIPs passing through the halls of the venue over the course of two days of exhibitions,talks,and parties.59Byredo x Chen

187、 Man avatar,September 2021.Image:Byredo Instagram54 Byredo Instagram.September 26,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“How Burberry Connects To Chinas Gen-Z Consumers Via Emerging Artists.”December 10,2020.https:/ Jing Daily.“Net-a-Porter and ART021 Launch the Incredible Female Artist Award.”February 18,2021.ht

188、tps:/ Jing Daily.“This Sothebys x Loewe Collab Is the Future of Brand Partnerships.”May 19,2021.https:/ Quill&Pad.“Hennessy Teams Up With Artist Cai Guo-Qiang to Mark the Explosive 150th Anniversary of Its X.O.Cognac.”December 15,2020.https:/ Jing Daily.“Pradas Shanghai Pop Up Fuses Art and Luxury.”

189、September 3,2020.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGMature Celebrities and InfluencersThe year ahead may also see more luxury brands working with older celebrities and influencers for campaigns,going against the trend of working with Gen Z“flavor of the month”stars.As noted in the recent report Transcendent

190、 Retail:APAC by Jing Daily and Wunderman Thompson,Chinas baby boomers are starting to make their mark on online commerce,showing impressive social media prowess.Boasting millions of fans,“The Fashion Grandmas,”a collective of around two dozen members ranging in age from their late 50s to mid 70s,use

191、 Beijings streets as their runway in videos sprinkled with nuggets of wisdom on life and love,serving up pop-up ads and livestreamed product sales along the way.And the Fashion Grandmas are far from alone,with“Grandma Wang Who Only Wears High Heels”boasting 16 million Douyin followers.The popular re

192、ality show Call Me By Fire featured celebrity contestants in their thirties,forties,and fifties.Image:披荊斬棘的哥哥 WeiboAccording to Wunderman Thompson research,81 percent of Chinese aged over 55 say they are more comfortable using digital technology post-COVID,more than any other age group.60“Chinas mob

193、ile internet industry has earned money from every group:men,women,youngsters,parents,but not the elderly,”Bian Changyong,chief executive of Beijing Dama Technology Company,which handles the Fashion Grandmas social media,told AFP.“This could be the last structural opportunity of the industry.”60 Jing

194、 Daily.“Transcendent Retail:APAC|Lessons From Chinas Trend-Setting Commerce Market.”July 15,2021.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGSome brands have moved more quickly than others in tapping older spokespeople.In 2020,the Este Lauder-owned niche fragrance brand Kilian enlisted 49-year-old actress Ning Jing,

195、the winning contestant in the hit idol competition show Sisters Who Make Waves,as the brands first brand ambassador ahead of its mainland China debut.More recently,the 2021 reality show Call Me By Fire,featuring male stars in their thirties,forties,and even fifties,became one of Chinas most popular

196、reality shows in the wake of the aforementioned celebrity scandals and fan culture crackdown.What brands may find is that working with more established celebrities in China offers more peace of mind,given the lower likelihood that they will rock the boat and put their cushy lifestyles at risk.Althou

197、gh their social followings are smaller than todays A-list young idols,mature celebrities have proven reputations through a long-term dedication to their craft.Also,their fans are more loyal,rational,and critical than the fickle fans of younger talents.61Already,some brands have started to enlist mor

198、e seasoned spokespeople into marketing campaigns with an eye on China,with Cartier naming renowned actress Gong Li(b.1965)as the global ambassador for its high jewelry collections in September 2021.62 However,as the example of Zhao Wei shows(see Chapter 8,Celebrities in the Crosshairs),even those wi

199、th decades-long careers are never a 100-percent safe bet.61 Jing Daily.“Can Older Chinese Stars Save Luxury Brands?”August 28,2021.https:/ The Hollywood Reporter.“Gong Li Joins House of Cartier as Global Ambassador.”September 17,2021.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGVirtual Idols and InfluencersSome intre

200、pid brands have taken the route of working with virtual idols,computer-generated celebrities who sing,dance,and offer great versatility without the potential for controversy or scandal inherent in humans.According to data from iiMedia Research,Chinas virtual idol industry was worth an estimated$540

201、million in 2020,an increase of 70.3 percent year-on-year,and could reach$970 million in 2021.63While virtual influencers are still a novelty in the West,in China they have become an accepted part of many brands marketing strategies.Since her debut nine years ago,virtual singer Luo Tianyi has worked

202、with a wide array of local and global brands,among them LOccitane,Bausch&Lomb,and Clarins.Xing Tong,a virtual idol from Tencents QQ Dance game,was tapped by Li Ning as a brand ambassador and appeared in a Levis campaign during Shanghai Fashion Week in 2019.64 Virtual influencers have even headlined

203、major events such as the first all-virtual version of Bilibilis annual BML(Bilibili Macro Link)concert in December 2020 and Kuaishous“cross-dimensional”Spring Festival concert in February 2021.65Since the beginning of 2021,several Chinese companies have turned to the stability of digital spokesperso

204、ns,among them C-beauty giants Florasis and Perfect Diary,haircare label Centaine,and jewelry maker IDO,while global luxury brands Prada and Miu Miu have worked with Aime,a virtual influencer created by Alibaba for Tmall Luxury Pavilion.But the use of virtual influencers is a rising trend on a global

205、 level as well,with brands like Prada and Calvin Klein collaborating with virtual sensation Lil Miquela66 and Dior,Zegna,and LOral creating their own in-house avatars.Virtual idols like Ayayi have become an option for brands concerned about real-life celebrities causing controversy.Image:Ayayi Weibo

206、63 Jing Daily.“Introducing Chinas Top Virtual Idols:Ayayi and Luo Tianyi.”September 30,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“Why Chinas Young Consumers Love Brand Collab-orations.”December 17,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“What the World Needs to Learn From Chinese Content Commerce:Part Four.”April 12,2021.https:/ Sub

207、stack.“Future Tech China:The Next Wave of Virtual Influencers.”October 22,2020.https:/ 11THE SILVER LININGExperience-Based OutreachAnother approach taken by some luxury brands and retailers in the current environment is to sidestep celebrity and influencer marketing altogether and focus on providing

208、 more interesting and engaging experiences within China.In May 2021,Munich-based luxury e-commerce platform Mytheresa held a private event in Beijing hosted by Chinese designer Ye Ming Zi and Lucia Liu,fashion editor-in-chief of Huasheng Media,speaking in depth about customer fashion and shopping ex

209、periences.The following month,London luxury retail mainstay Harrods held the second installment of its Residence Project in Beijing,following a similar event in November 2020 in Shanghai.The immersive,invitation-only space featured extensive offline events such as whisky tastings that brought togeth

210、er customers with similar interests and passions.67 In September 2021,Valentino presented a special show in collaboration with the Shanghai offshoot of the immersive theater UK luxury retailer Harrods has held its Residence Project pop-ups in cities like Beijing,Shanghai,and Chengdu.Image:Courtesy o

211、f Harrodsshow Sleep No More to showcase the brands Fall/Winter 2021 collection.Titled“Reborn in Dreams,”the collaboration invited an audience of fashion insiders to explore an installation that combined fashion,arts,and theater at the historic McKinnon Hotel playhouse.68Whatever route they take in t

212、heir choice of brand spokesperson or partner,luxury brands forced to rethink their China marketing strategies out of necessity could see the most sustainable success in the market.Rather than focusing on short-term success from season to season and signing on the latest star to emerge from idol show

213、s or hit dramas,brands that build stronger relationships with the subject-matter experts,athletes,or established celebrities their target audience cares about could avoid being caught up in embarrassing scandals or crackdowns they could do without.67 Jing Daily.“How Global Luxury Retailers Entice Ch

214、inese Shoppers.”June 22,2021.https:/ Jing Daily.“Prada Wows with Local Market Takeover in Shang-hai.”October 1,2021.https:/ 12CHAPTER 12APPENDIX:TIMELINE OF CHINAS KEY INITIATIVES ON CELEBRITIES 50CHAPTER 12CRACKDOWN TIMELINEChinas 2021 Celebrity and Fan Economy CrackdownJing DailyREPORTSWINTER 2021Social Links 2021 Herlar,LLC.All rights reserved.Jing Daily is a registered U.S.trademark of Herlar,LLC.JINGDAILY.COM