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1、2Authors:Yasmina Lembachar,Saoirse Walsh,Andrew Keys,Mayya Saliba,Sonja Kuijt (Circle Economy)Contributing authors:Hilde van Duijn,Francesco Cundari,Camille Tahon,Apoorva Valli Shankar(Circle Economy)Contributors:Sheryn Ziani,El Hasania Nmila (COVAD),Jack Barrie,Prachi Singh(Chatham House),Bouchraya

2、 Malainin(UNIDO Morocco),Monsif Charai(Valplast&FMP),Nasser Alanssari,Laila Hassi(CTPC),Pedro Fernndez Bau-tista(WES Med),Asadun Noor(UNIDO Bangladesh),Mumit Hasan(Reverse Resources),Amirul Hasan(Enviu),Hasnat Alam,Masrur Reaz,Shafqat Choudhury(Policy Exchange),Vidiya Amrit Khan,Sarah Rahman(Banglad

3、esh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association(BGMEA),Dr.Mohammad Bakhtiar Rana(CREATE),Ahmed Hassan,Ahmed Kamaleldin,Ashraf Abouhashish(DSV:Global Transport and Logistics),Dr.Hossam Allam,Ghada Moghny(Center for Environment and Development for the Arab Region and Europe(CEDARE),Hoda Salah Eldi

4、n Shakra(Egyptian Minis-try of Communications and Information Technology(MCIT),Hashem Abdelkader(UNIDO Egypt).Thank you also to all the stakeholders who joined the September 2023 workshop in Dhaka and the December 2023 workshop in Casablanca,which fed into this report.Editors:Ana Birliga Sutherland,

5、Megan Murdie(Circle Economy)Design and layout:Alexandru Grigoras(Circle Economy),Ana iljegoviThis work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.How to cite this report:Circle Economy.(2024).Switching to circular global value chains:state of play and futur

6、e path-ways.(1-64,Rep.).Amsterdam:Circle Economy.The opinions expressed in this paper are those of the authors,and do not necessarily reflect the views of the project implementing partners or the project donors.This document has been produced without formal United Nations ed-iting.The designations e

7、mployed and the presentation of the material in this document do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organiza-tion(UNIDO)concerning the legal status of any country,territory,city or area or of its authorities,

8、or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries,or its economic system or degree of development.Designations such as developed,industrialised or developing are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgement about the stage reached by a particular countr

9、y or area in the development process.Mention of firm names or commercial products does not constitute an endorsement by UNIDO.23About SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chains The Switch to Circular Economy Value Chains(SWITCH2CE)project is an initiative that assists EU multinational companies and the

10、ir suppliers from developing countries to switch to more circular economy approaches and practices in three selected value chains:Plastic Packaging,Textile&Garments,and ICT and Electronics.The overall goal is to support the Transformation towards a circular economy,including to contribute to sustain

11、able growth,low carbon and climate resilient development,decent jobs creation,and a safer,healthier,and pollution-free environment.SWITCH2CE is co-funded by the European Union and the Government of Finland,and implemented by UNIDO,in collaboration with Circle Economy,Chatham House,and the European I

12、nvestment Bank.Learn more at:www.switchtocircular.euAbout Circle EconomyWe are a global impact organisation with an international team of passionate experts based in Amsterdam.We em-power industries,cities and nations with practical and scalable solutions to put the circular economy into action.Our

13、vision is an economic system that ensures the planet and all people can thrive.To avoid climate breakdown,our goal is to double global circularity by 2032.To support the overall objectives of the SWITCH2CE project,Circle Economy has conducted research into the current state of circular economy devel

14、opments in the plastics packaging value chain in Morocco,the textile and garment value chain in Bangladesh,and information and communication technology(ICT)and electronics in Egypt.Circle Economy is also implementing a capacity-development programme to provide technical support and training to en-te

15、rprises in these sectors.344ContentsExecutive summary .5Chapter 1-Introduction.8Chapter 2-Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain.10 1.Background.12 2.Aims of a circular economy for plastic packaging.14 3.Current state of circularity in the Moroccan pla

16、stic packaging value chain .15 3.1 Regenerate flowsMake clean.16 3.1.1 Renewable,compostable and safe alternatives to fossil-based plastics.16 3.1.2 Plastic pollution.17 3.1.3 Just and inclusive transition for the informal waste sector.17 3.2 NarrowUse less.17 3.2.1 Problematic or unnecessary and av

17、oidable plastics.17 3.2.2 Circular design and resource-efficiency .18 3.3 SlowUse longer.21 3.3.1 Consumer-facing packaging.21 3.3.2 Industrial packaging.21 3.4 CycleUse again.21 3.4.1 Collection.21 3.4.2 Recycling.22 4.Pathways for Action.23Chapter 3-Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for

18、 a circular textiles value chain.28 1.Background.31 2.Aims of a circular economy for textiles.32 3.Current state of circularity in Bangladeshs textile and garment value chain .33 3.1 Regenerate flowsMake clean.34 3.1.1 Material inputs.34 3.1.2 Toxic inputs .36 3.1.3 Water inputs .36 3.1.4 Energy inp

19、uts .37 3.1.5 Social impacts.37 3.2 NarrowUse less.38 3.2.1 Production volumes .38 3.2.2 Resource efficiency in manufacturing.39 3.3 SlowUse longer.39 3.4 CycleUse again.40 4.Pathways for action.43Chapter 4-ICT waste in Egypt:Ecosystem and circular economy interventions.48 1.ICT waste and WEEE.49 2.

20、ICT waste ecosystem mapping.49 2.1 Market size and consumption.49 2.2 Import,retail and distribution.51 2.3 Collection.51 2.4 Sorting and testing.53 2.5 Waste management .53 2.5.1 Repair and refurbishment.53 2.5.2 Resale.54 2.5.3 Recycling.54 2.5.4 End of life.56 3.Conclusions.58Chapter 5-Concluding

21、 remarks.60Anex:Methodology.625Executive summaryTo slow the accelerating polycrisis,the circular economy is needed now more than ever.Earths natural systems are being put under increasing pressure,with the impacts of material extraction,consumption and waste driving us across several of the planets

22、key life-supporting boundaries.As a result,global value chains are under pressure to mitigate these impacts,with legislation rolling out around the world expected to change how manufacturers of consumer goods operate.The circular economya model in which waste is designed out,products and materials a

23、re kept in use at their highest value for as long as possible,and natural systems are regeneratedhas been posited as a means to do so.However,special attention must be paid to ensure that policies and industry initiatives in con-sumer countries dont negatively impact producing countries.If well-desi

24、gned,the circular economy offers produc-ers a range of opportunities to become front-running suppliers and stay competitive in increasingly environmentally conscious export markets.To this end,the SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chainsor SWITCH2CEprogramme aims to support suppliers in lower-income

25、countries in the value chains of large EU manufacturers and buyers in transitioning to a circular economy.The programmeand this reporttake stock of three key global value chains in three countries:plastic packaging in Morocco,textiles and garments in Bangladesh and information and communica-tion tec

26、hnology(ICT)in Egypt.For Morocco and Bangladesh,it explores current circular economy developments and lays out pathways for action;while for Egypt,it highlights the current state of play for waste electrical and electronic equipment(WEEE).At its heart,the circular economy can be conceptualised throu

27、gh four key strategies:regenerate,narrow,slow and cycle.More simply,this means using clean,non-toxic materials and energy,using fewer resources,using re-sources for longer,and ultimately,using resources again once theyve reached their end of life.This report uses this framework to organise research

28、on the current state of circularityand opportunities for changein Moroccos plas-tic packaging sector,in Bangladeshs textile and garment industry,and in Egypts ICT.Because the circular economy looks beyond a sole focus on materialsalso focusing on social capital,for examplethis has also been addresse

29、d in the following chapters.Opportunities for a circular economy for plastic packaging and pathways forward in Morocco.The plastic pack-aging sector is vital to the Moroccan economy,but its impacts are numerous:from pollution of the countrys water-ways and use of toxic chemicals to impacts on human

30、healthespecially in the context of waste pickers,who often work in unsafe conditions to collect plastic waste and procure feedstock for the recycling industry.As environmental concerns begin to feature high on political agendas around the world,the plastic packaging sector will face a number of chal

31、lenges,but shifting to a circular economy can boost the industrys competitiveness and local capacity for inno-vationwhile ensuring a just transition for informal workers and protecting human health.Many circular solutions are available to transform Moroccos plastic packaging sector:RegenerateMake cl

32、ean:Shift away from fossil-based plastics in favour of bioplastics,and shift to other conven-tional alternatives such as glass,paper and aluminium where appropriate;Eliminate the leakage of plastics into the environment through,for example,Extended Producer Responsibility schemes and devices that in

33、tercept and collect floating debris;Give a voice to workers in the informal waste sector to ensure a just transition.NarrowUse less:Ban single-use plastics,such as plastic bags;Reduce the demand for virgin plastic through strate-gies such as lightweighting and other material efficiency measures.Slow

34、Use longer:Offer reuse business modelsin the form of refillable or rentable packaging,for examplefor both consumer-facing and industrial packaging.CycleUse again:Formally employ waste pickers to carry out the collecting and sorting of plastic waste in safe,con-trolled environments;Improve collection

35、 systems to increase feedstock availability for recycling plants,which have vastly underutilised capacity;Recycle plastic packaging at its highest value,rather than down-cycling it for low-value 56applications;Roll out circular design strategies to boost recyclability,such as avoiding the use of col

36、ourants.While the Moroccan Government and key players in the plastic packaging sector have made strides in accelerating circular economy efforts,additional steps may still be taken.Strengthening the data and evidence base,for example,will be needed to overcome data gaps and support targeted efforts

37、to boost circularity;while a strong circular econo-my vision and strategic direction that covers different materials and sectors can support better cohesion and ensure the transition is as holistic as possible.Encouraging innovation and entrepreneurshipthrough capacity-building ac-tivities that embe

38、d circular principles in entrepreneurship programmes,for examplecan also serve to ingrain more circular attitudes in value chain actors.Finally,giving a voice to the informal sector,improving working conditions and investing in traceability and safety solutions will help ensure the circular transiti

39、on is as just as possible.Opportunities for a circular economy for textiles and pathways forward in Bangladesh.Bangladeshs textile and garment industry has driven economic growthbut it also poses a number of risks and threatens the countrys resil-ience,especially in the wake of global shocks like th

40、e covid-19 pandemic.Driven by rapidly increasing consumption in high-income markets,the industrys production model also generates severe environmental and social impacts:from the production of vast quantities of wastewatercontaining toxic chemicals,dyes and heavy metalsto lacking living wages and pr

41、evalent child labour.By shifting to a circular economy,Bangladeshs textile and garment industry can boost its resilience,lessen its impact and rethink the role it plays in the global textile economy.To transform its textile and garment industry,Bangladesh can:RegenerateMake clean:Boost the use of lo

42、cally recycled fabrics by supporting fibre-to-fibre recycling in the coun-try;Reduce toxic inputs by supporting the use of natural,biodegradable dyes and rolling out ambitious regulations to prohibit the discharge of harmful chemicals into water bodies;Employ more regenerative approaches to water us

43、esuch as rainwater harvestingto reduce water stress;Boost renewable energy usesuch as solarin the industry;Protect workers by tackling issues such as overtime and harassment and providing a living wage.NarrowUse less:Continue to improve already-present resource-efficient practices in manufacturing,a

44、nd tackle brands harmful buying practices,such as over-ordering.SlowUse longer:Roll out design strategies that boost the durability and repairability of garments,by using better quality fabrics,for example;Boost reuse business modelswhich are not common beyond occasionwear;Ensure unavoidable scraps

45、from manufacturing are reused or remanufactured.CycleUse again:Develop a local market for recycled fabrics while boosting capacity for local recycling;Increase the use of recycled water in factories to reduce freshwater use.Although numerous circular initiatives are already underway in Bangladesh,th

46、is research identified five pathways for progress.First,creating a cross-sectoral vision can help uncover new,unexplored opportunities and align stakehold-ers around mutually beneficial initiatives.To underpin this vision,a stronger evidence base will be needed:current inconsistencies in data are hi

47、ndering action,but improving this along with boosting the traceability of materials can help steer future action.Preserving already-present circular practices in Bangladesh will also be essential,especially as economic growth causes consumptionand wasteto rise within the country.Working with the inf

48、ormal sector and creating decent,green employment opportunities will also be crucial by,for example,prioritising tailored train-ing,knowledge,and technical capacity in the circular economy space.Finally,it must be recognised that transforming the textile and garment value chain will require coordina

49、tion between stakeholders across borders:as the EU rolls out circular economy legislation,workers in producing countries will feel an impact.This underscores the need for international collaboration so that new fashion systems are designed with all partners of the value chain in mind.Opportunities f

50、or a circular economy for ICT in Egypt.Egypt is a heavy consumer of electrical and electronic equip-ment(EEE),with market value only set to increase in coming years.At the same time,waste-EEE(WEEE)generation levels are also high,posing environmental risks to the country.If better valorised,WEEE has

51、the opportunity to be-come a valuable commodity and profitable business opportunity due to the presence of substances such as iron,copper,aluminium and some rare and precious metals.Currently,the vast majority of WEEE in Egypt is collected 67by workers in the informal sector,while sorting activities

52、 are carried out in both formal and informal sectorswith informal sorting greatly undertaken by women and children.Circular strategiessuch as repair,refurbishment,recy-cling and resaleare also prevalent in the informal sector,although there is a significant opportunity to boost this:only 1%of WEEE i

53、n Egypt,for example,is recycled,with the vast majority instead managed through a combination of incineration,landfilling and illegal disposal in open environments.There is already a strong foundation for improve-ment:brewing legislative changes,shifting consumer preferences and the dominant informal

54、 sector all contribute to a promising market for ICT refurbishment in Egypt.All countries studied boast a strong foundation for the circular transitionbut this will not be without challeng-es.Reuse and repair are already commonplace across countries,and capacity for recycling is significant.However,

55、these activities are not yet carried out to their full potential:a lack of organised waste management systems means that theres often not enough feedstock for recycling companies to run at capacity,while the informal sectors involve-ment in circular activities means that these are often not valorise

56、d to the extent they should be and that products and materials can fall through the cracks.Moving forward,Morocco,Bangladesh and Egypt may aim to bridge data gaps and better capture these activities to move the circular transition forward at the necessary speed and scale.Ulti-mately,the circular eco

57、nomy will provide each value chain and each country with different opportunities and should be viewed as a tool to meet various sustainability goals both at home and abroad.78Introduction19GLOBAL VALUE CHAINS IN A CHANGING WORLDWith looming climate breakdown,biodiversity loss and pollution,we are fe

58、eling the daily effects of Earths boundar-ies being pushed to their limits now more than ever.A healthy planet is essential for life on Earth to not just survive but thrive,and the imperative is becoming increasingly clear:governments and industries around the world must adjust their activities acco

59、rdingly.At present,global value chains for everyday goodsfrom clothing and packaging to electronic equipmentare entrenched in linear take-make-waste modes of being,which consume massive quanti-ties of materials and generate unnecessary waste from production to post-consumer phases.Social concerns ar

60、e also coming to the fore:although these value chains do create employment opportunities around the globe,hidden un-dercurrents like unlivable wages and child labour are all too prevalent.But now,as key actors are making incremental changes towards sustainability,global value chains are under increa

61、sing pressure to align with environmental and social objectives.The circular economyan economic model in which waste is designed out,products and materials are kept in use at their highest value for as long as possible,and natural systems are regeneratedhas been posited as a means to do so.With its

62、toolbox of strategies that make the most of what we already have and prioritise materials,energy and processes that are healthy for people and the planet,its been proven that the circular economy can bring economic activities back within our planets healthy limits across the globe.1However,global ci

63、rcularity is trending in reverse:it has fallen from 8.6%just a few years ago to 7.2%in 2024.To transition to a circular economy at the speed and scale necessary to prevent irreversible changes to Earths natural life-supporting systems,transnational cooperation and public-private partnerships across

64、global value chains will be essentialespecially as well-meant action towards circularity in one country or region may cause unwelcome effects to pop up in another.Circular value chains are systems in which products are made,used,collected and reintroduced into the system as secondary raw materials.C

65、onnected loops both within and across value chains can reduce reliance on virgin material extraction andif designed well and with this purpose in mindcan promote social justice.A CIRCULAR ECONOMY FOR THREE GLOBAL VALUE CHAINSRecognising the crucial role global value chains will play in the transitio

66、n to a circular economy,this report takes stock of the current state of circular economy developments in three global value chains across three countries:plastic packaging in Morocco,textiles and garments in Bangladesh,and information and communication technology(ICT)in Egypt.It aims to build consen

67、sus on the current state of play in these nations and disseminate findings to help orient local and international stakeholders around new circular initiatives.Across all three nations,data gaps and disparities in crucial circular indicators are prevalent,pointing out a need to build a sufficient evi

68、dence base that can inform the development of future circular economy strategies.Such strategies must go beyond a tunnel vision on waste man-agement:transitioning to circularity must be a holistic process that tackles all phasesfrom design and production to retail and end-of-lifeand includes a multi

69、tude of actors.Chapters two and three of this report deep dive into the plastic packaging and textile and garment value chains in Morocco and Bangladesh,respectively.They synthesise available knowledge on how each value chain is structured and the impacts they have,as well as assessing current circu

70、lar economy developments.They also dig into circular economy opportunities,taking both environmental and socioeconomic impacts into account,and highlight both key drivers of and barriers to change.Pathways forward and recommendations for action are provided for each con-text.Chapter four has a diffe

71、rent approach and gives insight into the current state of waste electrical and electronic equipment(WEEE)in Egypt without giving recommendations on circular economy intervention or pathways forward.Chapter five explores similarities and differences between each countrys case study,and gives concludi

72、ng remarks.1 Circle Economy.(2023).The circularity gap report 2023.Amsterdam:Circle Economy.Retrieved from:CGRi websiteChapter 1Introduction102Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain11Endorsers of this chapter Nasser AlanssariGeneral Manager at the Cent

73、re Technique de Plasturgie et de Caou-tchoucI would like to express my full support for the efforts made as part of this project aimed at promoting the circular economy in Morocco.The quality,perseverance and consistency of the work accomplished are essential to promote positive changes in this area

74、.Monsif CharaiPresident of the Moroccan Association for the Recycling and Recovery of Plastic WasteThe circular economy will play a crucial role in Moroccos plastic packaging value chain.This report makes a strong case for the Moroc-can industry to urgently adopt more circular practices and provides

75、 valuable insights into how Moroccan players have already started col-laborating towards these goals,as well as the road ahead.Ali BenryanePAGE National Coordinator at UNIDOAs PAGE Moroccos National Coordinator,I support the Switch2CE projects insights on advancing Moroccos circular economy for plas

76、-tic packaging.Their strategies for regenerative flows,resource opti-misation,and inclusive waste management are crucial for our sus-tainable development and pollution reduction,and will undoubtedly bolster Moroccos transition to a green economy,aligning with our national strategies and targets.Chap

77、ter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain121.BackgroundPlastic packaging is a vital sector of the Moroccan economy,contributing a turnover of 28 billion Moroccan dirhams.2 As in many countries,however,the sector is also under multiple pressures.The i

78、ndustrys reliance on importedand highly volatilevirgin inputs threatens the competitiveness of the industry,particularly in light of competition from foreign actors from oil-producing countries,which is seen as unfair by some.3 Likewise,plastic waste and marine pollution sit high on political agenda

79、s both domestically and internationally,with plastic packaging one of the main products routinely leaking into Moroccan rivers and seas.4 5 This is already translating to financial consequences for the plastics sector as a whole,which pays an additional eco-tax in addition to VAT.The sector has many

80、 additional challenges to contend with:increased attention to the indus-trys use of chemicalssome of which can be toxicand its impacts on human health,as well as reliance on waste pickers working in unsafe and unsanitary conditions to collect plastic waste and procure feedstocks for recycling indust

81、ries.6These challenges are only set to grow as international pressure to transition to a circular economy ramps up.As countries around the world boost their own recycling capabilities and as major Fast-Moving Consumer Goods(FMCG)companies set circularity targets,the global plastic waste trade will b

82、ecome increasingly com-petitive.7 This trade will also become increasingly regulated and restricted:note,for example,the emerging EU Waste Shipment regulations and Harmonised System(HS)code updates.8 While both imports and exports of plastic waste are currently restricted in Morocco,these waste mate

83、rials may soon become strategic resources.The costs of linear production are increasingly pushed onto producers through instruments such as Extended Producer Responsibility(EPR)schemes and taxes,and the global treaty to end plastic pollution currently under negotiation promises to address plastic po

84、llution through ambitious measures that take the full lifecycle of plastics into account.Finally,circularity is increasingly becoming a requirement to access European marketsan important trading partner.9 Beyond aligning with international trends,standards and regulations,the circular economy provid

85、es many opportunities for Morocco and its plastic packaging industry.By mitigating the risks associated with the volatility of virgin,fossil-fuel-based plastic materials,circularity can boost the industrys competitiveness and local capacity for innovation.10 The transition to a circular economy can

86、also cement Moroccos leadership position in environmental protection and human development;and,if designed with social inclusion and safe-ty in mind,it can ensure a just transition for informal waste workers and be a driving force for the protection of human health.112 Chahid,S.(2023).Plastic indust

87、ry:A sector at a crossroads!INTEGRAL.Retrieved from:LOpinion Website3 Policy Center for the New South.(2020).Le Maroc a-t-il bnfici de laccord de libre-change conclu avec lUnion europenne?(pp.8-9,Rep.).Retrieved from:Policy Center Website4 Zero Zbel.(2021).AUDITS DE DCHETS AUTOUR DES RIVIRES 2020/20

88、21.Retrieved from:Zero Zbel Website5 World Bank.(2022).Rapport didentification des hotspots lis aux dchets plastiques marins:Rduction de la pollution plastique marine et promotion des approches de lconomie circulaire(pp.1-36,Rep.).Retrieved from:World Bank6 World Wide Fund for Nature(WWF).(2019).Sto

89、p the Flood of Plastic:A guide for Policy-makers in Morocco(pp 8,Rep.).Retrieved from:WWF Website7 McKinsey&Company.(2022).Playing offence on circularity can net European consumer goods companies 500 billion.Retrieved from:McK-insey&Company Website8 European Topic Centre on Circular Economy and Reso

90、urce Use(ETC CE).(2024).Drivers of EU plastic waste exports(pp.2-3,Rep.).Retrieved from:Eionet Portal 9 World Bank.(2018).What a Waste 2.0:A Global Snapshot of Solid Waste Management to 2050.(pp.60-62,Rep.).Retrieved from:Open Knowl-edge Repository10 World Bank.(2023).Morocco Climate Change Institut

91、ional Assessment Framework(pp.29,Rep.).Retrieved from:World Bank Website11 Campitelli,A.,Aryoug,O.,Ouazzani,N.,Bockreis,A.,&Schebek,L.(2023).Assessing the performance of a waste management system towards a circular economy in the Global South:The case of Marrakech(Morocco).Waste Management(Elmsford)

92、,166,259269.doi:10.1016/j.was-man.2023.05.003Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain13Many of the key ingredients to a successful transition to a circular economy are already present.Both the Moroccan Government and the private sector are alrea

93、dy actively engaged in making the circular economy a priority.12 The circular economy is part of both national industrial recovery plans(Plan de relance de lindustrie)as well as decarbonisation plans.13 14 The government is also evolving national regulation and aligning it with the EU,as well as sup

94、porting pilot projects to demonstrate the potential savings that can stem from integrating circular principles at the industrial level.15A holistic,multi-stakeholder and full value chain approach is guiding ongoing efforts.Many challenges are shared by all recycling industries and go beyond plastic

95、packaging:collection and sorting processes,for example,as well as the need to formalise and integrate the informal sector.16 To this end,initiatives such as Ecosystme vert are highlighting the need for collaborative solutions that are adapted to national and cultural contexts,as well as the need to

96、think globally when it comes to plastics and plastic waste.17 Members of the ministries of Transition nergtique et du Dveloppement Durable and Economic Interest Groups(EIGs),such as COVAD,were involved in a number of collaborative initiatives aiming to boost the availability of feedstock,particularl

97、y post-industrial wasteFinally,Moroccan consumers are willing to play their part,too.A forthcoming SWITCH2CE study on the attitudes of Moroccan consumers about the circular economy,led by Chatham House and Ipsos,found that Moroccan consumers generally positively regard the role of waste pickers,with

98、 many respondents expressing concern for their safety and livelihood.Respondents showed willingness to prioritise reuse and recycling in their own lives:taking back containers to stores for a reward,for example,and are familiar with reusable food containers for takeaway.Still,there is much to do to

99、achieve a more circular,safe and just economy for plastic packaging in Mo-rocco.This chapter explores key circular economy developments in the sector in more detail,and highlights pathways for action to accelerate the transition to a just,safe circular economy for plastic packaging.12 International

100、Monetary Fund(IMF).(2023).Request For An Arrangement Under The Resilience And Sustainability FacilityPress Release;Staff Report;Supplement;Staff Statement;And Statement By The Executive Director For Morocco(pp.63,Rep.).Retrieved from:IMF website 13 Ministry of Industry and Commerce(MCINET.)(n.d.).Pl

101、an de Relance Industrielle:Lancement du programme“Tatwir Croissance Verte“pour lappui la dcarbonation des TPME Industrielles.Retrieved from:MCINET Website14 Janati,R.(2023,June).Clbration de la journe mondiale de lenvironnement:Atelier dchange autour du thme Pollution plastique:Dfis et opportunits 1

102、5 Chatham House.(2022).The EUs Circular Economy transition for plastic and textiles:Opportunities and challenges for trade partners in emerg-ing markets(pp.24-28,Rep.).Retrieved from:SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chains Website16 Trinomics.(2020).Circular economy in the Africa-EU cooperation-Coun

103、try report for Morocco(pp.v,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Union Website 17 Eshel,L.(2023).Moroccos path to an integrated innovation ecosystem:Breaking silos,building collaboration.Retrieved from:Morocco World News Website Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic pack

104、aging value chain142.Aims of a circular economy for plastic packagingA circular economy is an economic system where waste is designed out,everything is used at its highest possible value for as long as possible and natural systems are regenerated.18 The concept of circularity closely mimics nature,w

105、here there is no waste:all materials have value and are used to sustain life in a myriad of ways.If we effectively de-ploy these strategies,we will require fewer materials to meet similar societal needs.19The four strategies20 we can use to achieve these objectives,and in particular in the context o

106、f plastics,are:Figure one shows the four flows of the circular economy.Regenerate flowsMake clean:Regenerate ecosystems and safeguard health by decoupling plastics from fossil-based feedstocks,using renewable,compostable and safe alternatives that protect the environment and human health and elimina

107、ting chemicals of concern and non-intentionally added substances(NIAS).Use renewable resources(water and energy)from sustainably-managed environments,eliminate plastic and microplastic leakage into natural systems and facilitate a just and inclusive transition for the informal waste sector.Narrow fl

108、owsUse less:Reduce the size of the problem by eliminating problematic or unnecessary and avoidable plastic packaging such as single-use plastics,and by reducing the use of virgin plastic in packag-ing.This can be done,for example by reducing the demand for packaging overall and by boosting resource

109、efficiency in design and production.Slow flowsUse longer:Make the most of existing packaging by tapping into Moroccos reuse culture in Morocco and promoting reusable packaging products and business models;and by extending the lifetime of plastic packaging products through repair and durable material

110、s and designs.Cycle flowsUse again:Bring plastics back into the loop by dealing with the legacy of existing plastic pollu-tion and boosting plastic packaging recycling,while creating a market for recycled plastics.18 Ellen MacArthur Foundation(EMF).(n.d).Circular economy introduction.Retrieved from:

111、EMF Website 19 EMF.Circular economy introduction.Retrieved from:EMF Website 20 These four groups of strategies are based on the work of Bocken et al.(2016)and applied to the context of textiles based on the various strat-egies highlighted by leading institutions and platforms such as the Ellen MacAr

112、thur Foundation(2016),the European Commission(2018),the Platform for Accelerating the Circular Economy(2021),UNEP(2023),as well as SWITCH2CE project partners Circle Economy(2021)and Cha-tham House(2022).Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain15

113、3.Current state of circularity in the Moroccan plastic packaging value chain The plastic production market in Morocco includes about 800 companies,approximately 300 of which are active in packaging,and with over 400 plastic companies inventoried by the Centre Technique de Plasturgie et de Caoutchouc

114、.21 Of these,the vast majority are plastic converters(for example,injection moulding and extrusion companies),some focus on distribution,and a small number(about fifteen,of which four or five are foreign actors)focus on mould pro-duction.Key plastic products manufactured in Morocco are products for

115、the construction,agriculture and packaging industries,as well as technical parts and everyday-use plastic objects.Other sub-sectors include recycling,automo-biles,medical supplies and textiles.22 The plastics sector imports most of its raw materials from the Middle East and produces an estimated 0.7

116、123 million tonnes of plastics per year in Morocco.More than 50%of plastic use can be at-tributed to packaging.24 According to an industry representative,most companies in the plastics sector are small and medium-sized enterprises,where a company of 120 employees with a production capacity of roughl

117、y 10,000 to 20,000 tonnes per year would be considered medium-sized.They describe the sector as a relatively collaborative sector with an appreciation for healthy competition.25After Circle Economy in Switching to circular global value chains:state of play and future pathways,2024Figure two illustra

118、tes the plastic packaging value chain in Morocco.Dotted lines indicate informal links.21 Centre Technique de Plasturgie et de Caoutchouc(CTPC).(2024).Internal database.22 ETC CE.(2024).Drivers of EU plastic waste exports(pp.12-20,Rep.).Retrieved from:Eionet Portal 23 World Wildlife Fund(WWF).(2019).

119、Stop the flood of plastic:a guide for policy-makers in Morocco(pp.1-68,Rep.)Retrieved from:WWF website24 World Bank.(2022).Plastic-Free coastlines:A Contribution from the Maghreb to Address Marine Plastic Pollution(pp.40,Rep.).Retrieved from:Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations We

120、bsite25 Charai,M.(2022).Interview.Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain163.1 Regenerate flowsMake clean3.1.1 Renewable,compostable and safe alternatives to fossil-based plasticsVirtually all the plastic produced in Morocco is fossil-based:26

121、this polluting material can take up to 500 years to biode-grade,27 damages marine ecosystems and poses serious health issuesfrom endocrine disruption and decreased re-productive health to cancer.28 As such,alternative materials that can replace fossil-based plastics in packaging appli-cations are a

122、crucial means to mitigate these risks.In this section,we explore both innovative materials(bioplastics)as well as the increased use of conventional alternatives such as glass,paper and aluminium.The use of recycled inputs is further discussed under the Cycle section.Bioplastics and innovative materi

123、alsBioplastics often refer to a combination of i)fossil-based,biodegradable polymers,ii)bio-based biodegradable poly-mers and iii)bio-based non-biodegradable polymers.29 Here,we will primarily focus on bio-based and compostable materials.The biodegradability of plastic packaging is high on political

124、 and corporate agendas(see Textbox one).Bioplastics,however,are still an emerging field,and are prohibitively expensive in many parts of the world:30 this prevents them from being an economically viable alternative for most manufacturers in Morocco at the moment.31 Still,considering Moroccos biomass

125、 availability,there are high-value opportunities for local innovation:better val-orising agricultural residues,for example,or through the blue economy.Innovative packaging organisations around the world are already using seaweed,for example,to make food containers,films and sachets,as well as rigid

126、packag-ing.32 In Morocco,The Seaweed Company is already growing and harvesting seaweed for the production of high-val-ue products(though not specifically packaging),and the Work Bank has recently approved a US$350 million loan to support the Government of Morocco in the launch of its Blue Economy pr

127、ogramme.33 Financing to support these research,development and innovation efforts will be crucial,as will safeguards to ensure bioeconomy developments are sustainable and non-toxic.34Conventional alternatives(glass,paper,aluminium)Although plastics versatility and lightweight properties make it a un

128、ique and cost-effective material,evolving regu-lations may soon make other renewable and safe materials more economically attractive,particularly in the case of single-use plastics.Paper and glass packaging industries are already seeing a significant increase in investments.35 Some Moroccan manufact

129、urers have already proven themselves to be adaptable in light of new regulatory constraints,shifting their entire processes from plastic to paper bag production after the Zero Mika law was introduced,for example.36 26 WWF.(2019).Stop the Flood of Plastic:A guide for Policy-makers in Morocco(pp.4,Rep

130、.).Retrieved from:WWF Website27 Helian Polymers.(2023).Try PHA-innovate with sustainable biodegradable pha materials.Retrieved from:Hellan Polymers Website 28 United Nations Development Programme(UNDP).(2023).Microplastics on Human Health:How much do they harm us?.Retrieved from:UNDP Website29 Scien

131、tists Coalition.(2023).The global plastics treaty:What is the role of bio-based plastic,biodegradable plastic and bioplastic?(pp.1,Rep.).Retrieved from:Scientists Coalition Website30 Rosenboom,JG.,Langer,R.&Traverso,G.(2022).Bioplastics for a circular economy.Nature Reviews Material,7,117137.doi:10.

132、1038/s41578-021-00407-831 PlastExpo exhibitors.(2023).Interviews.32 Notpla.(n.d.).Notpla Disappearing packaging.Retrieved from:Notpla Website33 World Bank.(2023).World Bank Support for the Development of Moroccos Blue Economy.Retrieved from:World Bank Website34 Indeed,some bio-based plastics can be

133、as unsafe as their fossil-based counterparts.Zimmermann,L.,Dombrowski,A.,Vlker,C.,&Wagner,M.(2020).Are bioplastics and plant-based materials safer than conventional plastics?In vitro toxicity and chemical composition.Environment International,145,1-11.doi:10.1016/j.envint.2020.10606635 North Africa

134、Post.(2022).Casablanca an export hub for sustainable packaging solutions-Elopak.Retrieved from:North Africa Post Website36 PlastExpo exhibitors.(2023).Interviews.Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain17The production of these materials is not

135、always more resource-efficient than plastics,however,and in order to fully realise the benefits of these materials,other strategies(such as those discussed in the Narrow and Slow sections)are required to reduce demand for materials overall.37 3.1.2 Plastic pollutionConsidering plastic pollutions imp

136、acts on the environment,on marine life,and its associated costs,particularly for coastal areas,this has already been the subject of many studies and efforts in Morocco,not the least of which is the development of a plastic-free coast strategy(Littoral sans plastique).38 LISP is a comprehensive progr

137、amme dedi-cated to the prevention and reduction of marine pollution by plastic waste and the promotion of circular economy models in coastal regions.The strategy,developed in 2022,aims to address a wide range of issues,from the use of single-use plastics in coastal business communities to the durabi

138、lity and circularity of products.It does so through,for example,ecodesign,the aggregation of collection and sorting at-source(including on-ships),EPR systems,and by improving access to finance for cooperatives,integrating the informal sector,recovering of fishing gear,leading beach clean-up initiati

139、ves and more.Other measures are also being considered to target hotspots of plastic pollution:setting up devices to intercept floating debris,for example,especially from rivers,which are key hotspots.3.1.3 Just and inclusive transition for the informal waste sectorA regenerative and circular economy

140、 also requires the inclusion and integration of those most at risk of losing out in the transition.In Morocco,this means working with informal waste workers,in particular,to develop end-of-life and recycling solutions that they can play a role in and benefit from.39There is already an increasing num

141、ber of cooperatives(for example,Attawafouk)and initiatives in Morocco working to formalise and improve working conditions for informal waste pickers,including formal sorting centres in larger cities and associations that act as a voice for waste pickers in high-level meetings and discussions.The gov

142、ernance of plastic waste is a crucial piece of the puzzle that still needs to be worked out.403.2 NarrowUse less3.2.1 Problematic or unnecessary and avoidable plasticsDespite the many criticisms it received since its implementation and the enforcement challenges it encountered,the pioneering Morocca

143、n Zero Mika law banning single-use plastic bags generated many positive results as well as lessons learnt for future applicationfor example,if the ban were to be extended to other single-use plastics.41 This is particularly relevant as rising income levels and rising levels of local consumption can

144、often result in more waste,42 and as single-use plastics constitute a large fraction of plastic waste found on riverbanks and the coast.4337 Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development(OECD).(2021).4.Trends in the secondary plastics markets.Retrieved from:OECD iLibrary Website38 World Bank

145、.(2022).Rapport de Formulation de la Stratgie:Littoral sans Plastique et de son Plan dOprationnalisation-Rduction de la Pollu-tion Plastique Marine et Promotion des Approches de lconomie Circulaire(pp.1-55,Rep.).Retrieved from:World Bank Website39 Trinomics.(2020).Circular economy in the Africa-EU c

146、ooperation-Country report for Morocco(pp.28-30,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Union Website 40 Mazout,Y.(2022).Interview.41 Ghallab,M.(2020).Zero Mika or the Difficulty in Getting Rid of Plastic Bags in Morocco:Sometimes a law is just not enough.Retrieved from:Heinrich Bll Stiftung Website42 OECD.(20

147、19).Chapter 2.Trends in materials consumption and waste generation.Retrieved from:OECD iLibrary43 Zero Zbel.(2022).AUDITS DE DECHETS AUTOUR DES RIVIERES 2020/2021.Retrieved from:Zero Zbel Website Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain183.2.2 C

148、ircular design and resource-efficiency Morocco is not a petrol-producing country.For this reason,its plastic packaging industries have a lot to gain from re-ducing demand for virgin plastic materials.Virtually all plastic inputs,other than PVC,have to be imported.44 Circular design strategies that m

149、inimise inputssuch as lightweighting can play a crucial role hereand,in fact,are already common practice among many plastic packaging manufacturers in Morocco.45 Lightweighting is widely considered to be a cost-saving measure,as reducing material inputs also reduces costs.46 Demand for plastic can a

150、lso be reduced through other strategies that bypass the need for single-use packaging such as reuse business models.47 These are discussed in the Slow section.This goal is backed by many leading FMCG com-panies in the context of the Global Commitment,which has set targets around decreasing the use o

151、f virgin plastic in packaging,and is also a topic under negotiation in the Global Plastics Treaty to End Plastic Pollution48(see Textbox one).Textbox one:International levers for circular packagingTrends and policies in the European UnionThe EU is a key trading partner for Moroccos plastic industry:

152、in 2020,Morocco exported 71,000 tonnes of plastics to the EU for nearly US$765 million,or 87%of the total value of the countrys plastic exports.49 In November 2023,the EU published the Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation,which,as of March 2024,is in the process of being formally adopted.The Reg

153、ulation aims to reduce packaging waste and accelerate the introduction of more sustainable packaging options on the market.Importantly,it sets ambitious objectives to reduce packaging and also requires all packaging on the EU market to be recy-clable.It also sets mandatory targets for recycled conte

154、nt of plastic packaging.50In addition,some EU countries have also introduced their own specific regulations.For instance,France is planning to phase out single-use plastic packaging by 2040,while polyethylene(PE)and polypropyl-ene(PP)packaging with at least 50%recycled content benefits from a 50%red

155、uction in their Extended Producer Responsibility(EPR)contributionsthe payments producers have to make to fund the man-agement and disposal of the goods they manufacture at the end of their useful life.51 44 Berahab,R.&Dadush,U.(2020).Le Maroc a-t-il bnfici de laccord de libre-change conclu avec lUni

156、on europenne?(pp.8-10,Rep.).Retrieved from:Policy Center For The New South45 Mordor Intelligence.(n.d.).Morocco flexible packaging market size&share analysis-industry research report-growth trends.Retrieved from:Mordor Intelligence Website46 Liu,Y.,Lai,J.,Ma,S.,Feng,Q.,Yang,G.,Zhao,Z.,&Zhou,C.(2023)

157、.Supply chain plastic footprint analysis.Circular Economy,2(2),1-9.doi:10.1016/j.cec.2023.10003747 EMF.(n.d.).Plastics and the circular economy deep dive.Retrieved from:EMF Website 48 UNDP.(2023).A global treaty to end plastic pollution is in sight.Retrieved from:UNDP Website49 Chatham House.(2022).

158、The EUs Circular Economy transition for plastic and textiles:Opportunities and challenges for trade partners in emerging markets(pp.27,Rep.).Retrieved from:SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chains Website50 European Parliament Research Service(EPRS).(2023).Revision of the Packaging and Packaging Wast

159、e Directive(pp.1,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Parliament Website51 Diaz Lopez,F.J.,Veillet Lavalle,M.,Renaud,G.&Saes,L.(2021).Circular plastics in France(pp.7,Rep.).Retrieved from:Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Netherlands Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plasti

160、c packaging value chain19The Global Plastics Treaty to End Plastic PollutionIn March 2022,United Nations Member States agreed on a mandate to negotiate a legally binding glob-al plastics treaty to end plastic pollution.The ambitious instrument aims to address plastic pollution across the full lifecy

161、cle,from feedstock production to end-of-life.Key topics under negotiation include:Phasing out and reducing the supply of,demand for and use of primary plastic polymers;Banning,phasing out and reducing the use of problematic and avoidable plastic products;Banning,phasing out and reducing the producti

162、on,consumption and use of chemicals and polymers of concern;Reducing microplastics;Strengthening waste management systems;Fostering design for circularity;Encouraging reduce,reuse and repair of plastic products and packaging;Promoting the use of safe,sustainable alternatives and substitutes;Eliminat

163、ing the release and emission of plastics to water,soil and air;Addressing existing plastic pollution;Facilitating a just transition,including an inclusive transition of the informal waste sector;and Protecting human health from the adverse impacts of plastic pollution.The treaty negotiations will co

164、nclude at the end of 2024 and will have important consequences for plas-tic industries around the globe.The Global Commitment Finally,the Global Commitment,52 led by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation,in collaboration with the UN Environment Programme,has united more than 500 organisations behind a comm

165、on vision:a circular economy for plastics.Driven by the goal of tackling plastic pollution at its source,companies represent-ing 20%of all plastic packaging produced globally have committed to ambitious 2025 targets to help realise this common vision.Targets and actions include:Decreasing the use of

166、 virgin plastic in packaging;Eliminating problematic or unnecessary plastic packaging;Moving from single-use towards reuse models where relevant;Ensuring 100%of plastic packaging is reusable,recyclable,or compostable;and Increasing the share of post-consumer recycled content target across all plasti

167、c packaging used.52 EMF.(n.d.).The Global Commitment 2022.Retrieved from:EMF WebsiteChapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain20Textbox two:Beyond materials:Water and energy in a circular plastic packaging economyA circular economy also looks beyo

168、nd materials to consider all resources and natural and social capital that systems of production and consumption rely on.This includes resources such as water and energy,as well as the people powering production,all the way to the ecosystems provisioning services that we rely on(EMF,n.d.).53 As such

169、,all four strategies(Regenerate,Narrow,Slow and Cycle)equally apply to them.WaterMorocco is a climate hotspot and one of the worlds most water-stressed countries.54 Circular water management strategies,such as greywater reuse,therefore,hold a lot of promise in terms of making the most of a limited r

170、esource.55 In 2016,industrial water use only accounted for 6%of total water use in Morocco and 16%of all the wastewater reused overall,or 18.36 million cubic metres per year.These figures,however,pale in comparison to the nearly 800 million cubic metres of wastewater(all sources included)that were d

171、ischarged untreated into the environment in that same year56 and that could have been revalorised for industrial uses such as closed-loop water systems and water recycling technolo-gies.As noted by the Economic,Social and Environmental Council,57 strategically prioritising wastewa-ter reuse and rain

172、water harvesting would be very beneficial.Renewable energyMoroccos plastic-related oil consumption accounts for just 1.9%of the North African regions total;58 however,its industrial activities are not negligible,accounting for about 19%of the countrys total ener-gy use.59 Morocco has set a goal to s

173、ource 52%of its electricity needs from renewables by 2030,includ-ing a mix of solar,wind and hydrogen production.60 The countrys solar and wind resources have helped make it an ideal location for investments in renewable energy,including green hydrogen.61 Industry stakeholders have also been engagin

174、g in the development of a decarbonisation effort led by UNIDO and the Ministry of Industry and Trade.6253 EMF.(n.d.).The Circular Economy in Detail.Retrieved from:EMF Website54 World Bank.(2023).New World Bank Program in Morocco Supports Efforts to Boost Water Security and Resilience for all.Retriev

175、ed from:World Bank Website55 Trinomics.(2020).Circular economy in the Africa-EU cooperation-Country report for Morocco(pp.10-12,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Union Website 56 Alhamed,H.,Blad,M.,Saad,S.&Masaki,M.Business Opportunities Report for Reuse of Water in Morocco(pp.52-55,Rep.).Retrieved from

176、:RVO57 Conseil Economique,Social et Environnemental.(2022).Intgration des principes de lconomie circulaire aux traitements des dchets mnagers et des eaux uses.Retrieved from:CESE website58 WWF.(2019).Stop the Flood of Plastic:A guide for Policy-makers in Morocco(pp.9,Rep.).Retrieved from:WWF Website

177、59 Amegroud,T.(2022).Quelles sources dnergie utilises au Maroc et pour quels usages?(pp.4,Rep.).Retrieved from:Heinrich Bll Stiftung60 Rahhou,J.(n.d.).Report:Moroccos 2030 Green Energy Target is“most credible”in mena.Retrieved from:Morocco World News Website61 Mohseni-Cheraghlou,A,(2023).Four Reason

178、s Why Morocco Is Becoming a Renewable Energy Powerhouse.Retrieved from:Columbia SPS Website62 United Nations Industrial Development Organization(UNIDO).(2024).Morocco:developing an industrial decarbonization roadmap framework.Retrieved from:UNIDO WebsiteChapter 2Morocco:State of play and future path

179、ways for a circular plastic packaging value chain213.3 SlowUse longerWhile packagings function might inherently be limited in time,many strategies exist to extend the life-time of packaging products and keep them in circulation for as long as possible.63 Here,we distinguish be-tween different types

180、of plastic packaging most suitable for this type of strategy:larger business-to-busi-ness(B2B)packaging items,such as pallets or crates,that are typically highly durable and already boast high reuse rates and consumer-facing(B2C)packaging,particularly for fast-moving consumer goods.Oth-er plastic pa

181、ckaging(for example,straps)is often scattered widely across locations,making take-back a logistical challenge and not economically feasible,or is not logically reusable(for example,food-grade films).In Morocco,the plastic packaging industry primarily operates on the basis of selling new pack-aging p

182、roducts.Reuse business models such as refill,rental and resale are not commonplace,but some exceptions do exist,as do many untapped opportunities for innovation.3.3.1 Consumer-facing packagingOur stakeholder interviews revealed that some deposit-return systems(systmes de consignes)exist in Morocco,p

183、articularly in B2B settings(for example,glass bottles are commonly used by the catering in-dustry,where branded bottles are sold in hotels and restaurants and taken back for refilling by bottling companies).This is less common in B2C settingsin which the consumer is expected to return the pack-aging

184、 themselfbut still available in the case of some small-scale stores,as well as in some rural areas,where the traditional milkman delivery model still exists.These typically concern glass packaging.Buy-ing in bulk remains the norm in souks and smaller shops,although packaged fresh foods are increasin

185、gly on offer in supermarkets.This may lead to an increase in packaging.3.3.2 Industrial packagingSome plastic packaging manufacturers operate take-back schemes in Morocco,where packaging is re-covered from clients at the end of its useful life.These are then typically destined for recycling rather t

186、han repair or reuse.Second-hand markets(marchs doccasion)also exist where more durable plastic containerssuch as five-litre oil containersare resold for reuse rather than recycling.643.4 CycleUse again3.4.1 CollectionFor the most part,used plastic packaging products in Morocco end up in uncontrolled

187、 landfills,where high levels of contamination impact the quality of any plastics that may get collected later on.Every year,Morocco generates half a million tonnes of plastic waste.65This is largely because waste is not structurally separated at the source.Instead,an estimated 10,000 to 34,00066 inf

188、ormal waste pickers collect the valorisable fractions of waste(plastics,metals,aluminium cans,etcetera),from uncontrolled landfills and from the(overground)street bins in major cities.Waste pickers often live close to the poverty line and work in environments with poor health and safety con-ditions,

189、facing harassment from residents on the streets(forcing their labour into the night)as well as intense competition in the landfills,where the law of the strongest reigns and puts women,children and elderly waste pickers at a disadvantage.67 63 Coelho,P.M.,Corona,B.,ten Klooster,R.,&Worrell,E.(2020).

190、Sustainability of reusable packagingCurrent situation and trends.Resources,Conservation&Recycling,10(6),1.doi:10.1016/j.rcrx.2020.10003764 Charai,M.(2023).Interview.65 World Wildlife Fund(WWF).(2019).Stop the flood of plastic:a guide for policy-makers in Morocco(pp.1-68,Rep.)Retrieved from:WWF websi

191、te66 Heinrich Bll Stiftung.(2020).Plastic Atlas(pp.1-68,Rep.).Retrieved from:Heinrich Bll Stiftung Atlases 67 Mazout,Y.(2022).Attawafok.On-site visit.Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain22Materials collected are then sold to grossistesinterm

192、ediaries that further sort and process the waste before reselling it to recycling companies.Only 7 to 13%of available plastic waste is collected.68Some exceptions to these informal collection models exist:At least four sites formally employ waste pickers to carry out the sorting in controlled and sa

193、fe conditions,in Meknes,Rabat(Oum Azza),Sidi Bernoussi and Tamelest.20 cooperatives69 are working to improve socioeconomic outcomes for informal waste pickers.A federation was also created to unite the voices of different stakeholders(la Fdration de recy-cleurs de collecteurs et chineurs).As discuss

194、ed in the Slow section,some industrial players collect used plastics directly from other industry players,both from packaging as well as other plastics industries.The company Valplast,for example,collects plastics from the agricultural industry to feed into their recycling process.An EIG,representin

195、g around 80%of recyclers in Morocco,aims to set up sorting centres closer to industrial zones,where larger quantities of plastic waste can be collected,to make the economics for collection logistics work.Part of their mission is to also support suppliers of waste,including associations of informal c

196、ollectors,to act as suppliers for the EIG centres.703.4.2 RecyclingOnly 7%of all plastic waste in Morocco is recycled71but this is not for lack of recycling capacity.Accord-ing to a plastics industry representative,recycling capacity in Morocco is estimated at 300,000 tonnes per year.72 However,thes

197、e recycling plants are vastly underutilised,running at 40%of their capacity.One of the main barriers is the challenge recyclers face in securing feedstock,especially as many recyclers specialise in the recycling of specific plastic types:for example,PET,films,HDPE,flexible or rigid pack-aging,etcete

198、ra.Collectors,however,often collect all types of plasticshindering sorting and incurring additional costs,meaning that these activities are not currently economically viable.73Current legislation forbids the use of recycled inputs for materials that come into contact with foods and beverages in Moro

199、cco(Law 28.00).Instead,a handful of formal recycling companiesas well as smaller,informal recyclersprocess collect-ed materials into low-value applications such as crates and tubes,garbage bags and tarpaulins,fibres and straps.74 Additionally,it is common for plastic packaging manufacturers to recyc

200、le their own plas-tic waste.Some organisations sell the waste to external recyclers(sometimes shredding it beforehand),while others have in-house capacity to recycle it themselves.75 Amendments to Law 28.00 are currently underway,which also consider the establishment of an EPR sys-68 Water and Envir

201、onment Support(WES)in the ENI Southern Neighbourhood Region.(2021).Initiative conjointe pour la mise en place de la filire de gestion des emballages de bouteilles en PET dans le cadre de la REP au Maroc(pp.1-47,Rep.).69 Chatham House.Policy,stakeholders,and impact opportunities for circular plastics

202、 in Morocco:a rapid assessment.(pp.1-26,Rep.)70 Charai,M.(2022).Interview71 World Wildlife Fund(WWF).(2019).Stop the flood of plastic:a guide for policy-makers in Morocco(pp.1-68,Rep.)Retrieved from:WWF website72 Charai,M.(2022).Interview.73 Charai,M.(2023,June).Clbration de la journe mondiale de le

203、nvironnement:Atelier dchange autour du thme Pollution plastique:Dfis et opportunits 74 Water and Environment Support(WES)in the ENI Southern Neighbourhood Region.(2021).Initiative conjointe pour la mise en place de la filire de gestion des emballages de bouteilles en PET dans le cadre de la REP au M

204、aroc(pp.1-47,Rep.).75 PlastExpo exhibitors.(2023).Interviews.Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain23tem.This development has not been met positively by all value chain actors,some of which stand to lose out(such as established recyclers)or ha

205、ve expressed concerns about regulatory bodies ability to enforce traceability and safety standards.76Upstream interventions to improve recyclingFinally,bottling companies are also exploring circular design strategies to improve the recyclability of their products,such as avoiding the use of colouran

206、ts.One frequently cited example is that of Sprite transitioning from green to transparent bottles.4.Pathways for ActionThe Moroccan Government and the plastic packaging sector have already made significant investments in accelerating circular economy efforts based on a collaborative,multi-stakeholde

207、r and holistic approach.77 To build on and strengthen their efforts,and based on stakeholder input collected through the State of play and circular economy opportunities workshop held by Circle Economy,Chatham House and the Coalition pour la valorisation des dchets on the 18th of December 2023,we ha

208、ve identified the following additional avenues for action:1.Strengthen the data and evidence baseThanks to the efforts of many actors on the ground,data on the scale of plastic production and,especially,plastic pollution is becoming increasingly available in Morocco.Other initiatives are aimed at vi

209、sualising the collection rates and engaging stakeholders to develop strategies aligned with the countrys Industrial Acceleration Plan(PAI)in the country.On this matter,the Ecosystme Vert study by COVAD,in collaboration with the Ministry of Industry,Investment,Commerce,and the Green and Digital Econo

210、my,reveals that the gross collection rate stands at 17%,whereas the net collection rate is 9 to 10%.Moreover,the study highlights that the in-formal sector accounts for 60 to 65%of sorting activities and handles 90%of collection proce-dures.78 Still,it remains a challenge to chart the composition an

211、d volumes of plastics in detail and to understand exactly how these flow and shift through the Moroccan value chain.Many data gaps exist,and existing studies may not always reflect the reality of industry stake-holders79 and may have even encouraged premature investments in recycling plants that are

212、 running under capacity today.An in-depth study into packaging material flows,broken down by material types and including different plastic types,sectoral users and end-of-life destina-tions,would support more targeted efforts to increase circularity.Multi-stakeholder initiatives to establish and co

213、ntinuously manage databases on industrial wastes available for recycling would also support this goal.76 Workshop participant.(December 2023).tat actuel et opportunits circulaires pour la chane de valeur des emballages plastiques,Casablan-ca.77 Trinomics.(2020).Circular economy in the Africa-EU coop

214、eration-Country report for Morocco(pp.1-102,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Union Website 78 World Bank.(2022).Rapport didentification des hotspots lis aux dchets plastiques marins:Rduction de la pollution plastique marine et promotion des approches de lconomie circulaire(pp.1-36,Rep.).Retrieved from:

215、World Bank79 One recycler noted that a World Bank study on plastic waste availability in Morocco mentioned the wide availability of agricultural plastic waste,which did not reflect the experience of many recyclers,who have struggled to secure this type of feedstock because of the high reuse rates fo

216、r this type of plastic(for example,second-hand baches,tubes,gaines and 5L bidons are resold as is on second-hand markets(marchs doccasion)to be reused rather than recycled).Charai,M.(2023,June).Clbration de la journe mondiale de lenvironnement:Atelier dchange autour du thme Pollution plastique:Dfis

217、et opportunits Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain24Textbox three:Data gaps in the Moroccan plastic packaging value chain Imports and exports of plastic packaging.Trade figures available through the Office des Chang-es,for example,share ins

218、ights on imported granules,plastic resin and other plastic packaging trade,but these figures do not account for the plastic packaging that comes with finished prod-uct imports.Trade data also does not distinguish between plastics that are re-exported directly and those that actually enter the market

219、 and contribute to the total amount of plastic waste available domestically.This issue of the hidden plastic waste trade is not unique to Morocco,80 and this data gap is increasingly being studied.One study,for example,found that overall plas-tic trade could be more than 40%higher than previous esti

220、matesand could in fact be even higher still.81 Material and product types.While PET and PET bottles in particular have been the subject of numerous studieslikely due to their recyclability potential82data on other types of plastics is less readily available.Additionally,while plastic waste has been

221、the subject of many investi-gations,the exact contribution of packaging to this waste is unclear,and it is unclear whether this packaging is consumer-facing or industrial.End of life and destinations.Data at the end-of-life stage is limited and data collection is more challenging due to the presence

222、 of large informal waste dumps and trading networks and mar-ketsboth for post-industrial as well as post-consumer waste.Some field studies(for exam-ple,in Casablanca)83 are increasingly aiming to fill this gap through primary data collection.Disagreements also exist as to the actual availability of

223、some feedstocks for recycling.For ex-ample,some estimate that the Souss Massa region generates upwards of 550,000 tonnes of agricultural plastic waste,84 but whether this waste is actually available for recycling industries is a question,as it could often find uses in second-hand,reuse markets.Post-

224、industrial waste.Data on the availability of post-industrial plastic waste is also missing,but filling this gap through a collaborative industrial initiative could be a low-hanging fruit.80 International Institute for Sustainable Development(IISD).(2021).New database helps track trade across the lif

225、e cycle of plastics.Retrieved from:SDG Knowledge Hub Website81 International Pollutants Elimination Network(IPEN).(2023).Plastic Waste Trade:The Hidden Numbers.Retrieved from:IPEN Website82 Natural Mineral Waters Europe.(2022).Pet plastic recycling:Not“just”plastic but a valuable resource.Retrieved

226、from:Natural Mineral Waters Europe Website83 Impact+.(2014).tude les acteurs de la rcupration/revente de dchets valorisables Casablanca et les scnarii de leur intgration dans un systme de collecte slective.84 Zakri,R.(2023,June).Clbration de la journe mondiale de lenvironnement:Atelier dchange autou

227、r du thme Pollution plastique:Dfis et opportunits Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain252.Set a holistic vision and strategic direction After Circle Economy in Switching to circular global value chains:state of play and future pathways,2024

228、Figure three illustrates a future vision for a circular plastic packaging value chain in Morocco.A circular economy vision and strategic direction that takes different materials and sectors into account can support better cohesion and the alignment of different circular economy ini-tiatives across t

229、he country.85 This would ideally address the question of which destinations are considered preferable for plastic waste,whether that be specific applications or sectors as a whole.86 Closed-loop applications such as bottle-to-bottle recycling,for example,87 are often championed by larger multination

230、alswhich stand the most to benefit from them 88but the normative and cost barriers to the adoption of recycled content in food packaging have led to criticism,for example from existing recycling actors in Morocco.89 The use of plastic waste as feedstock in other industriessuch as textileswill also b

231、e important to address.3.Pair innovation and entrepreneurship with the existing reuse culture Experimentation and piloting are crucial to inform the development of a strategy that is ground-ed in lived experiences and concrete lessons learnt.Here,innovation and entrepreneurship are particularly inte

232、resting avenues to explore,as many new circular business models exist that aim to radically change the way products are delivered to consumers and to minimise material use.These do not seem to be a current priority for existing value chain actors but are an un-85 United Nations Environment Programme

233、(UNEP)&International Resource Panel(IRP).(2011).Decoupling natural resource use and environ-mental impacts from economic growth(pp.101,Rep.).Retrieved from:UNEP Website86 UNEP&IRP.(2011).Decoupling natural resource use and environmental impacts from economic growth(pp.117,Rep.).Retrieved from:UNEP W

234、ebsite87 Plastics Europe.(2023).A closed-loop system for recycled plastic bottles saves materials and CO2.Retrieved from:Plastics Europe Website88 Project Breakthrough.(n.d.).Closed-loop:How to do radically more with dramatically less.Retrieved from:Project Breakthrough Website89 Trinomics.(2020).Ci

235、rcular economy in the Africa-EU cooperation-Country report for Morocco(pp.1-102,Rep.).Retrieved from:European Union Website Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain26tapped opportunity for new entrants,especially in light of the reuse culture th

236、at is so integral to Morocco.90 Capacity-building activities that embed the concept of circularity within entre-preneurship programmes may also encourage circular practices from the onset.4.Include the informal sector Informal waste pickers in Morocco make a significant contribution to closing the l

237、oop on plastic pack-aging.Although their presence makes it more challenging for traceability purposes,their inclusion in future circular economy solutions is an integral piece of the puzzle.As pilots to demonstrate the ef-fectiveness of at-source sorting91 and return systems92 are being explored,the

238、 development of a just transition plan for informal waste workers93 to guarantee access to better working conditions would be beneficial.This plan could be co-created with informal waste picker association representatives and include capacity-building actions to support their formalisation and to sh

239、are essential business skills,such as accountancy.5.Invest in traceability and safety solutions Recycled plastic can be more toxic than virgin alternatives94 and requires traceability protocols and standards to be established and followed to guarantee the safety of final products.These standards ide

240、ally need to be progressive and adapt to changing requirements.This is currently not typically the case in Morocco,where standards are set within legislative texts and therefore take much longer to up-date if and when needed.Instead,legislation should ideally set essential guidelines(for example,hea

241、lth protection)and refer to standalone standards that can adapt to the times.95 Beyond standards,digital traceability solutions also exist that can be further exploredsome of which work directly with informal waste pickers to improve their visibility,such as BanQu.90 Various stakeholder meetings.(20

242、23).91 Association des Enseignants des Sciences de la Vie et de la Terre(AESVT.).(n.d.).La gestion des dchets au Maroc:Approche alternative.92 Searious Business.(n.d.).Moroccan Supermarkets Tackling Single-Use Plastics.Retrieved from:Searious Business website.93 UNEP.(2023).Topic Sheet Just Transiti

243、on(pp.1-5,Rep).Retrieved from:UNEP Website94 Gayle,D.(2023).Recycled plastic can be more toxic and is no fix for pollution,Greenpeace warns.Retrieved from:The Guardian Website95 Institut Marocain de Normalisation(IMANOR)representative.(2023,June).Clbration de la journe mondiale de lenvironnement:Ate

244、lier dchange autour du thme Pollution plastique:Dfis et opportunits Chapter 2Morocco:State of play and future pathways for a circular plastic packaging value chain27283Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain29Endorsers of this chapterMohammed Masum BillahBusi

245、ness Development Manager of the Centre for CSR&Sustainabili-ty at BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology(BUFT)and Associ-ate Professor,Department of Business Administration at BUFTThe reasons for shifting to a circular economy are obvious,but do-ingso is challenging.Today,consuming fewer natural

246、 resources and finished products can slow down economic growth,going against Sustainable Development Goals 1,2 and 8.However,with innovative ideas,a positive mindset,and a clear understanding of the circular economy,along with integrated action plans,we can better integrate business and society to b

247、uild a more sustainable world.Mohammad Shamsul ArafinAdvisor of Economic Cooperation and Private Sector DevelopmentSkills for Self-Monitoring and Compliance with Clean and Fair Pro-duction in the Textile Industry(SCAIP)After recognising and embracing circularity as an enabler for sustain-ability,the

248、 next phase for Bangladesh is to focus on how to catalyse the transition.This entails formulating and implementing pertinent policies,developing supportive infrastructure,gaining commitment from industry leadership,using AI,the Internet of Things and big data for decision-making and,finally,making i

249、mpact investments avail-able and accessible.Chapter 3Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain30Dr.Mohammad B.RanaAssociate Professor of International Business and Strategies Director,Sustainability Lab.Aalborg University Business School,Aalborg University,Denm

250、ark.The circular economy model can help achieve multinational brands sustainability goals,but production and consumption are often dis-persed across global value chains.While brands aim to reconfigure supply chains to ensure circularity,their success largely depends on how brands,suppliers and insti

251、tutional actors collaborate to develop conducive policies and circular innovation ecosystems in manufac-turing countries.Connecting production and consumption in global circular systems requires brands not only to upgrade capabilities,strategies and structures but also to develop more ambitious com-

252、mitments and share resources,technologies and long-term plans with their suppliers to support them in the green transition.Only by ensuring upstream and downstream value chains are in the transi-tion together can we eliminate waste,prioritise workers wellbeing and deliver economic benefits for all a

253、ctors.Shamiul HoqueImpact Programmes ManagerGlobal Fashion Agenda(GFA)This report on circular textiles in Bangladesh is pivotal for global sus-tainable development.It emphasises the urgency of transitioning to circular practices,aligning with the GFAs Circular Fashion Partner-ship and BESTSELLERs ci

254、rcular economy pilot in the country.Its in-sightful analysis offers strategies to decouple economic growth from material use,enhancing industry competitiveness and resilience.GFA applauds its comprehensive approach,marking a significant step to-wards sustainability.Chapter 3Bangladesh:State of play

255、and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain311.BackgroundBangladeshs export-oriented textile and garment industry has been a tremendous source of economic devel-opment for the country,increasing access to currency and foreign investments,lifting people out of poverty,and providing a sour

256、ce of income for many women,who make up the majority of garment workers.96 97 Moreover,the tex-tile and garment industry contributes an important share of the countrys economic output(GDP),national exports and industrial employment(16,80 and 40%,respectively)98 99 and manufacturers of textiles and r

257、eadymade garments represented nearly half of all enterprises in Bangladesh in 2013.100 However,this economic model has placed Bangla-desh in a fragile position where it is highly dependent on the exports of a single product,threatening the countrys overall resilience.101 The countrys reliance on the

258、 industry is particularly concerning,as it is based on a double dependency:first,on ready-made garment(RMG)exports to European and other high-income markets;second,on imports of raw materi-als,especially from cotton-rich countries like India and the US.102 The impact of global shockssuch as the covi

259、d-19 pandemicon Bangladesh best illustrates the risks involved in such dependencies,with the decrease in demand for RMG products hitting workers the hardest.103This production model is also a significant source of social and environmental issues that have long been the subject of international scrut

260、iny.In addition to fuelling overconsumption in high-income countries,the global tex-tile industry is also the poster child for unsafe and unfair working conditions,as well as being a key driver of envi-ronmental degradation.For example,while only a little over half of Bangladeshs population has acce

261、ss to safely managed water sources,104 the countrys textile industries generate around 217 million cubic metres of wastewater containing toxic chemicals,dyes and heavy metals.This,in turn,severely pollutes water and causes ecological dam-age.105 Meanwhile,a lack of living wages,child labour,and seve

262、ral other human rights breaches at various stages of the value chain characterise work in these industriesa double-edged sword for women,who suffer disproportion-ately due to their over-representation in the workforce.Scrutiny of garment production in the wake of the 2013 Rana Plaza factory tragedy

263、led to the implementation of several interventions.Multi-stakeholder initiatives,such as the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety,have significantly im-proved working conditions,particularly in comparison to other manufacturing hubs,106 however,

264、social issues remain endemic to the sector.107 108 With climate change threatening the production capacity of the highest cotton-producing 96 Al Mamun,A.,&Hoque,M.(2022).The impact of paid employment on womens empowerment:A case study of female garment workers in Bangladesh.World Development Sustain

265、ability,1,1-11.doi:10.1016/j.wds.2022.10002697 World Bank.(2018).Bangladesh:Reducing poverty and sharing prosperity.Retrieved from:World Bank Website 98 Giz&Tv Rheinland.(2022).A pre-feasibility study on industrial textile waste in Bangladesh,Pakistan,Vietnam,Cambodia-streams and Re-gional linkages(

266、pp.1-100,Rep.).Retrieved from:TUV 99 FCG Swedish Development AB.(2021).Facilitating the identification of Entry Points for Sida in the Textile&RMG sector in Bangladesh(pp.1-24,Rep.).Retrieved from:FCG Website100 Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics.(2019).Retrieved from:Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics We

267、bsite 101 Kathuria,S.(2021).Bangladesh Is Clothes-Minded:The countrys obsession with garments takes an increasingly heavy toll on the rest of its economy.Retrieved from:Foreign Policy Website102 Observatory of Economic Complexity(OEC).(2021).Bangladesh.Retrieved from:OEC Website 103 Asia Floor Wage.

268、(2021).Money Heist:Covid-19 Wage Theft in Global Garment Supply Chains(pp.1-181,Rep).Retrieved from:Issue Website 104 World Bank.(2018).Bangladesh:Reducing poverty and sharing prosperity.Retrieved from:World Bank Website 105 Sakamoto,M.,Ahmed,T.,Begum,S.,&Huq,H.(2019).Water pollution and the textile

269、 industry in Bangladesh:Flawed corporate practices or restrictive opportunities?.Sustainability,11(7),1-14.doi:10.3390/su11071951106 International Labour Organization(ILO).(2015).Improving working conditions in the ready made garment industry:Progress and achieve-ments.Retrieved from:ILO Website 107

270、 Prentice,R.,De Neve,G.,Mezzadri,A.,&Ruwanpura,K.N.(2018).Health and safety in garment workers lives:Setting a new research agenda.Geoforum,88,157-160.doi:10.1016/j.geoforum.2017.11.024108 Sinkovics,N.,Ferdous Hoque,S.,&Sinkovics,R.R.(2016).Rana Plaza collapse aftermath:are CSR compliance and auditi

271、ng pressures effec-tive?.Accounting Auditing&Accountability Journal,29(4):617-649.doi:10.1108/AAAJ-07-2015-2141Chapter 3Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain32countries109 and with key export markets such as the EU making circularity a requirement for acces

272、s,110 Bangladesh is actively investing in strengthening the resilience of its economy and rethinking the role it plays in the global textiles economy.The circular economy provides a good opportunity to make these changes,and many initiatives in the country are increasingly focusing on the topic:from

273、 high-profile events attracting the international textiles and apparel community such as the Sustainable Apparel Forum and the Bangladesh Circular Economy Summit,to projects such as the Circular Fashion Partnership,the Switch to Circular Economy Value Chains project and more.This document aims to pr

274、ovide an overview of circular economy developments in Bangladeshs textile value chain to orient local and international stakeholders in the public,private and civil sectors looking to establish new initiatives on this topic.The report is structured as follows:Section one provides background knowledg

275、e on the garment and textile industry in Bangladesh;Section two clarifies the aims of a circular economy for textiles;Section three details the current state of circular play in Bangladeshs textile and garment industry;and Section four highlights pathways for action.2.Aims of a circular economy for

276、textilesThe circular economy is an economic system where waste is designed out,everything is used at its highest possible value for as long as possible and natural systems are regenerated.111 The concept of circularity closely mimics nature,where there is no waste:all materials have value and are us

277、ed to sustain life in a myriad of ways.If we effectively de-ploy these strategies,we will require fewer materials to meet similar societal needs.112 The four strategies we can use to achieve these objectives,particularly in the context of textiles,are:113 Figure four shows the four flows of the circ

278、ular economy.109 WTW.(2021).Cotton 2040:Planning for Climate adaptation.Retrieved from:WTW Website110 Chatham House.(2022).The EUs Circular Economy transition for plastic and textiles:Opportunities and challenges for trade partners in emerging markets(pp.1-56,Rep.).Retrieved from:SWITCH to Circular

279、Economy Value Chains Website111 Ellen Macarthur Foundation(EMF).(n.d).Circular economy introduction.Retrieved from:EMF Website 112 EMF.Circular economy introduction.Retrieved from:EMF Website 113 These four groups of strategies are based on the work of Bocken et al.(2016)and applied to the context o

280、f textiles based on the various strat-egies highlighted by leading institutions and platforms such as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation(2017),the European Commission(2022),the Platform for Accelerating the Circular Economy(2021),the Global Fashion Agenda(2021),SITRA(2022),the United Nations Environment

281、 Programme(UNEP)(2023),as well as SWITCH2CE project partners Circle Economy(2021)and Chatham House(2022).Chapter 3Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain33 Regenerate flowsMake clean:Regenerate ecosystems and safeguard health by using renewable re-sources(fib

282、res,water and energy)from sustainably-managed environments,eliminating substances of concern in the production of textiles,addressing microfibre release from synthetic textiles and elimi-nating textile pollution and waste.Narrow flowsUse less:Reduce the size of the problem by reversing the overprodu

283、ction and overcon-sumption of textiles and reducing demand for resources through resource efficiency in the production process.Slow flowsUse longer:Make textiles last by designing products for longevity and durability,repair-ability and recyclability by investing in new circular models for reuse and

284、 repair and by engaging citi-zens to extend the lifetime of their textile products through,for example,better care,maintenance and repair.Cycle flowsUse again:Bring textiles back into the loop by dealing with the legacy of the existing tex-tile waste mountain and boosting textile recycling and marke

285、ts for recycled fibres.A circular economy also looks beyond materials to consider all resources and natural and social capital that systems of production and consumption rely on.This includes resources such as water and energy,as well as the people powering production,all the way to the ecosystems p

286、rovisioning services that we rely on.As such,all four strategies(Regenerate,Narrow,Slow and Cycle)equally apply to these resources and natural and social capital and are also addressed throughout the following sections.3.Current state of circularity in Bangladeshs textile and garment value chain The

287、 textile and garment industry is fundamental to Bangladeshs economy,accounting for 84%of the total na-tional exports and formally employing 4.6 million people across more than 4,000 factories.114 115 The industry integrates various actors across the formal and informal sectors,and it remains dominat

288、ed by smaller entities,even though large textile and apparel companies have technologically upgraded and introduced more complex products.116 Bangladeshs textile and garment sector now faces new challenges as the UN announced its gradu-ation from the least developed countries(LDC)group,meaning that

289、the country will lose certain trading privi-ledges.117 Fast fashion embodies another concern,as the growing demand for ready-made garments and textiles has resulted in higher consumption of energy and natural resources,contributing to high post-production and consumption waste streams.118 Moreover,t

290、he extensive production in the sector yields significant pre-consumer textile waste,known as jhut,totaling around 600,000 tonnes annually,with only 5%being recycled primarily by informal businesses.119 114 Bangladesh Investment Development Authority.(n.d.).Readymade garments.Retrieved from:Banglades

291、h Investment Development Authority Website 115 Alam,H.,Schrder,P.,&Reaz,M.International Circular Economy Policy trends:Implications for Bangladeshs Circular and Textile Policy Devel-opment Retrieved from:SWITCH116 Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics.(2019)Economic census 2013.Retrieved from:Bangladesh b

292、ureau of statistics website 117 International Economics.(2021).Impact of LDC Graduation on the Textiles and clothing Sector.Retrieved from:International Economics Website118 Alam,H.,Schrder,P.,&Reaz,M.International Circular Economy Policy trends:Implications for Bangladeshs Circular and Textile Poli

293、cy Devel-opment Retrieved from:SWITCH119 UNIDO(2023).Bangladesh:Circular Opportunities in the Textiles Value Chain.Retrieved from:UNIDO WebsiteChapter 3Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain34Nonetheless,there are various circular initiatives in the country,

294、demonstrating its resilience and adaptability to surging sustainability demands.After Circle Economy in Switching to circular global value chains:state of play and future pathways,2024Figure five displays the textile value chain in Bangladesh3.1 Regenerate flowsMake clean3.1.1 Material inputsRenewab

295、le fibresAlthough the exact fibre composition of Bangladeshi textiles and garments is hard to assess,the industry is widely understood to be primarily cotton-baseda renewable,albeit land-and water-intensive fibre that can provide a valu-able feedstock to existing fibre-to-fibre recycling markets.Eve

296、ry year,8.5 to 10 million bales(or approximately 1.8 to 2 million tonnes)of cotton are used to meet the industrys demand.120 121 Over 95%of this cotton is imported from cotton-growing regions in Africa,India,the Commonwealth of Independent States and the US.122 123 However,cotton,despite being renew

297、able,has a considerable environmental impact on cultivating countries concerning water scarci-ty,GHG emissions,depletion of natural resources,and biodiversity.124Other natural fibres grown in Bangladeshalbeit to a much smaller extentinclude wool(3,000 tonnes per year)125 120 Dhaka Tribune.(2022).Ban

298、gladesh aims to increase cotton production fivefold by 2030.Retrieved from:Dhaka Tribune Website121 Industrial Development Leasing Company(IDLC).(2021).The Local Textile Industry of Bangladesh:A Signature of Our Culture(pp.1-32,Rep.).Retrieved from:IDLC Website 122 Observatory of Economic Complexity

299、(OEC).(2021).Raw Cotton in Bangladesh.Retrieved from:OEC Website123 Maritime Gateway.(2022).Africa Overtakes India As Major Cotton Supplier To Bangladesh.Retrieved from:Maritime Gateway Website124 ajn,N.(2019).Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry:What consumers need to know.(pp.

300、1-10).Retrieved from:European Parliamentary Research Service(EPRS)125 Chowdhury,M.R.&Khan,A.N.(2022).Study on the Possibilities to Produce Sustainable Wool Fibre in Bangladesh.International Journal of Engineering,Business and Management(IJEBM),6(1),42-46.doi:10.22161/ijebm.61Chapter 3Bangladesh:Stat

301、e of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain35and silk(7 to 40 tonnes per year,126 a figure that has been steadily in decline).Jute is also an important natural fibre crop grown in Bangladesh(7 to 8 million bales annually or approximately 1.6 million tonnes on average).127 Once

302、the golden fibre of the country and the heart of its exports,jute is now primarily used outside of apparel applications,largely for packaging and some non-apparel textile uses.The jute industry still exports over half a billion dollars worth of jute every year,but this pales in comparison to the$42.

303、63 billion of RMG exports in 2023.128 Nevertheless,it should be noted that,according to process-based LCAs,the production stage of jute fibre is the main contributor to local environmental impacts related to land use,marine ecotoxicity,and the withdrawal of heavy metals resulting from the use of fer

304、tilisers and pesticides during its cultivation.129Non-renewable fibresLocal production of synthetic fabricssuch as those made of polyester staple fibre(PSF)and viscose staple fibre(VSF)is still relatively limited in Bangladesh.In 2021,only 27 of the countrys 433 spinning mills produced synthetic yar

305、n.130 Likewise,synthetic imports pale in comparison to cotton imports:in the 20192020 fiscal year,raw cotton imports were 17.85 million tonnes,compared to 96,077 tonnes and 53,289 tonnes,respectively,of PSF and VSF.But this is changing.Today,about 24%of annual apparel exports are garment items made

306、of synthetic fibres,131 often blends of cotton and other types of yarnand this is only set to increase in the future as the government and foreign investments support this trend.132 Indeed,investments in the local production of synthetic fibres are currently on the rise;the Bangladesh Garment Manufa

307、cturers and Exporters Association(BGMEA)aims to increase the percentage of annual apparel exports of gar-ment items made of synthetic fibres to 40%by the end of 2030;133 while government incentives are also available to encourage the manufacturing of garments from synthetic fibres.134Recycled fibres

308、The recycling of fabric and the use of locally recycled fabrics is still relatively low in Bangladesh,but this is rising grad-ually to match the international trend towards a circular economy for textiles.135 Recycled fibres are primarily import-ed and spun in Bangladesh,although a handful of fibre-

309、to-fibre mechanical recyclers(such as Recover and Cyclo)are now also operational in the country.The volume of rPET fibre(or recycled polyester fibre)is significantly higher than recycled cotton,however,rPET fibre is often more readily available,cheaper and of better quality.There are 46 Global Recyc

310、led Standard(GRS)-certified spinning facilities in Bangladesh,for example,but the majority of these companies spin rPET fibre from plastic bottle recycling.136 While the adoption of recycled fibres presents benefits in terms of waste reduction and water consumption,its im-portant to consider that rP

311、ET fibre may contribute to water microplastic pollution.For instance,in one load of laun-126 Siddique,A.(2023).Extreme temperatures and erratic weather disrupt Bangladeshs famous Rajshahi Silk Industry.Retrieved from:Mongabay Website127 Dhaka Tribune.(2022).Jute millers want withdrawal of 2%source t

312、ax.Retrieved from:Dhaka Tribune website128 Fibre2Fashion.(2023).Bangladesh sees 10.67%rise in garment exports,hits$42.6 bn in FY23.Retrieved from:Fibre2Fashion website129 United Nations Conference on Trade and Development(UNCTAD).(2021).The role of exports in manufacturing pollution:Bangladesh fact-

313、sheet.Retrieved from:UNCTAD130 Rahaman,M.M.(2021).Harnessing man-made fibre potential vital for Bangladesh economy.Retrieved from:Financial Express Website131 Mirdha,R.U.(2023.)Investment dried up in textile and garment in 2023.Retrieved from:Daily Star Website132 Khan,A.K.(2021).RMG makers turning

314、to artificial fibers.Retrieved from:Textile Today Website133 Textile Today.(2022).Bangladesh locally can produce 50%of its synthetic fiber demand.Retrieved from:Textile Today Website134 Mirdha,R.U.(2023).Garment of man-made fibre:Ministry for 10%cash incentive on export.Retrieved from:Daily Star Web

315、site135 Siddique,A.(2023).Extreme temperatures and erratic weather disrupt Bangladeshs famous Rajshahi Silk Industry.Retrieved from:Mongabay Website136 Circular Fashion Partnership.(2024).Circular Fashion Partnership.Retrieved from:Global Fashion Agenda WebsiteChapter 3Bangladesh:State of play and f

316、uture pathways for a circular textiles value chain36dering,approximately 700,000 microplastic fibres are discharged,posing risks to water bodies,food chains,marine life,and human health.137 This issue is further reflected in the production,processing and washing of synthetic fabric(non-renewable fab

317、rics),where microplastics are also released and accumulated in the environment.138 Additionally,the reliance on plastic bottle recycling may introduce challenges related to resource competition,considering that recycling plants are not receiving enough plastic bottles for the production of polyester

318、 yarn and polyester fabric.139 Therefore,efforts to expand the use of recycled fibres should be accompanied by strategies to address these environ-mental and supply availability concerns and promote sustainable practices across the textile industry.3.1.2 Toxic inputs Fabric dyeing is a chemically in

319、tensive industryand the most chemically intensive stage in the manufacturing pro-cesswith more than 8,000 chemicals used throughout.140 These chemicals include many toxic substances,including carcinogenic and hormone-disrupting chemicals that never break down and accumulate in the environment,known

320、as PFAS.141 These cause substantial water pollution and ecological damage.Large textile dumps around Dhaka and Chittagong142 also contribute to further water pollution as excess waste clogs river flows and drains,and microplastics leach into water bodies,resulting in higher levels of PFAS in seafood

321、 and water near the Coxs Bazar and Chittagong areas presenting an environmental hazard for human health and marine biodiversity.143 The industry has recognised the need to and taken steps to reduce toxic inputs,with more sustainable alternatives such as natural and biodegradable dyes entering the ma

322、rket,144 145 and with regulations and guidelines in place to con-trol the discharge of harmful chemicals into water bodies(for example,the Bangladesh Standards and Guidelines for Sludge Management).In 2022,Bangladesh,Indonesia,Pakistan and Vietnam also jointly launched a$43 million pro-gramme to man

323、age and reduce hazardous chemicals in their textile industries and fight chemical pollution,with the goal of phasing out PFAS and other chemicals of concern.146 The government is not allowing new garment factories outside industrial zones and has made it mandatory to invest in effluent treatment pla

324、nts(ETP).Likewise,new special economic zones have also made it mandatory to invest in ETPs,although these are often not properly operated.147 International buyers have also woken up to the urgency,with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals(ZDHC)initiative tackling key challenges on the road to i

325、ts ambitious titular goal.Regulations in the EU and the US also aim to limit toxic chemicals in consumer products to safe levels.Despite over a decade of efforts,however,there is still a long way to go,as tests of textile products still show that high levels of toxic chemicals are present148 and che

326、mical industries continue to hinder more ambitious regulation in export markets.149 3.1.3 Water inputsThe fashion industry is the second largest consumer industry of water,requiring about 2,700 litres to produce one 137 van Elven,M.(2018).How sustainable is recycled polyester.Retrieved from:Fashion

327、United Website138 Wastiaux,M.(2024).The environmental impact of the textile sector.Retrieved from:The Hedgehog Company139 Shawkat,A.(2021).Not enough plastic waste for recyclers.Retrieved from:The Business Standard140 Kant,R.(2012).Textile dyeing industry is an environmental hazard.Natural Science,4

328、(1),22-26.doi:10.4236/ns.2012.41004141 Wicker,A.(2023).Your clothes could be toxic.fashion urgently needs to address this.Retrieved from:Vogue Website142 Circular Fashion Partnership.(2024).Circular Fashion Partnership.Retrieved from:Global Fashion Agenda Website143 Environment and Social Developmen

329、t Organization(ESDO).(2019).PFAS:Bangladesh Situation Report(pp.1-37).Retrieved from:ipen.org144 Abudullah,S.(2023).Proklean partners with Sameet Dye-Chem to promote sustainable alternatives for Bangladeshs textile.Retrieved from:Textile Today Website145 Textile Today.(2018).Eco-friendly chemicals p

330、aving the way for Sustainable Textile Industry.Retrieved from:Textile Today Website146 United Nations Environment Programme(UNEP).(2022).Textile-producing nations unite to reduce chemical waste.Retrieved from:UNEP Website147 Hossain,L.,&Khan,M.S.(2020).Water footprint management for sustainable grow

331、th in the Bangladesh Apparel Sector.Retrieved from:MDPI Website148 Wicker,A.(2023).Your clothes could be toxic.fashion urgently needs to address this.Retrieved from:Vogue Website149 Nelsen,A.(2023).EU to drop ban of hazardous chemicals after industry pressure.Retrieved from:The Guardian WebsiteChapt

332、er 3Bangladesh:State of play and future pathways for a circular textiles value chain37cotton shirt and over 10,000 litres of water to produce a pair of jeans.150 After the cultivation of cottonmost of which occurs outside of Bangladeshthe dyeing process is one of the most water-intensive stages of t

333、extile production,requiring 30 to 50 litres of water per kilogramme of dyed cloth alone.151 As a result,around 217 million cubic metres of wastewater152 is generated in Bangladesh,putting stress on Bangladeshs already insecure water supplies.153 To mitigate this,supportive policies have been put in place,including the Water Act 2013:a framework law to integrate and coordinate water resources manag