1、Tackling Microfibres at SourceInvestigating opportunities to reduce microfibre pollution from the fashion industry through textile design and manufacturing innovation.ContentsAcknowledgments.3Foreword.4A Note from Ramatex Group.5About the Ocean Innovation Challenge.6Profiles.7Acronyms and Keywords.9

2、Introduction10Executive Summary.14The Microfibre Challenge.16Theory of Change20Methodology.23Solutions.33Systemic Barriers to Change41Tackling Microfibres at Source2Forum for the Future|2023Recommendations46Recommended Resources56References.57Appendix A Methodology65Appendix B Material and Yarn Opti

3、ons.73Appendix C The Dyeing Process.83Appendix D Filtration and Wastewater Management.87AcknowledgmentsThis project brings together a group of stakeholders with an interest to better understand the impact of textile manufacturing on the microfibre pollution problem.The project team is led by Forum f

4、or the Future(“Forum”),with Ramatex Group as the industry partner,and the Nanyang Environment&Water Resources Institute(NEWRI)as research partner.We were supported by VDE Consultancy in our technical analysis and review,the Universiti Teknologi Malaysia(UTM)as a supporting research partner,and Kim v

5、an der Weerd,co-founder and host of Manufactured Podcast,as our impacts and recommendations reviewer.We are very grateful for the hard work and efforts of everyone involved and the perseverance in overcoming the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic over the course of the project.As part of our

6、primary research,we conducted interviews with selected industry stakeholders(brands and suppliers)and held discussions with many industry experts over the course of the project.We are grateful for their invaluable insights to the analysis and report.Finally,we acknowledge the support of the UNDP OIC

7、 for this opportunity to break new ground in this important topic,and the guidance of the OIC team.Supported byIndustry partnersOutreach partnerResearch partnersTackling Microfibres at Source3Forum for the Future|2023Written by:Forum for the Future.Publication date:February 2023Congratulations Forum

8、 for the Future and partners.We are equally very proud to share the results of the 21-month game-changing research and commitment to catalyze the need to address the microplastics challenge at the source,by preventing microfibre shedding at textile production.Financed by Sida and Norad,through the O

9、cean Innovation Challenge incubator and mentoring programme of the United Nations Development Programme(UNDP),Forum for the Future is one of UNDPs first-ever cohort of eight chosen innovators launched in 2021,and selected in 2020 from more than 600 innovative proposals from around the globe to accel

10、erate progress on SDG 14.1 Marine Pollution Reduction and#BeatPlasticPollution.We have witnessed Forum and the project partners perseverance in overcoming challenges to deliver the expected outputs during the global pandemic and severe lockdown restrictions in Southeast Asia.They managed to promote

11、the importance of tackling microfibre shedding at source and engaged with textile manufacturers,emphasizing their power to reduce microplastic pollution.Forum also elevated their advocacy of tackling the microplastics pollution and other sustainability challenges facing the textile industry with lea

12、ding global fashion brands.Through these seeds planted by Forum and the continuous support from their partners and collaborators,we hope to see transformative change and a more inclusive engagement in the coming days within the various levels in the fashion industrys value chain,towards a more earth

13、-conscious and sustainable fashion.Mary M.MatthewsManager,Ocean Innovation Challenge,andinterim Head of Water and OceanUNDPForewordTackling Microfibres at Source4Forum for the Future|2023A Note from Ramatex GroupTackling Microfibres at Source5Forum for the Future|2023The world is reopening its borde

14、rs and the fashion industry is in a state of recovery from the many obstacles thrown up by the COVID-19 pandemic.Our project,Tackling Microfibres at Source,was carried out under challenging conditions during the pandemic,from national lockdowns to border closures.We are proud to have worked with For

15、um for the Future and our project partners in driving this exciting and innovative research forward,contributing to a greater understanding of microfibre shed from textile manufacturing processes.Since we began work on this project in early 2021,climate change has accelerated,biodiversity loss is cr

16、itical and ocean health continues to decline.This has reinforced the urgency of innovating for more circular solutions,and in the fashion and textiles industry,the important role that suppliers can play in leading a shift to a more sustainable industry.In our industry,technical solutions appear to o

17、ffer the most attractive and convenient answers.What this project has shown is that complex problems require collective action and collaboration between multiple stakeholders.The challenge of microfibre pollution cannot be solved by one stakeholder alone brands and suppliers must work together in un

18、dertaking innovative solutions.We hope that the insights and findings from this project can serve as a starting point for further industry and scientific research,and to generate conversations between brands and suppliers as they begin to understand and tackle this emerging challenge together.There

19、is much we do not yet understand about this problem,for example how different materials and yarns have an impact on microfibre shed,or about the health impacts of microfibre ingestion.This is an opportunity for the industry to come together to develop collective learning,and for brands and suppliers

20、 to strengthen trust and equitable partnerships so that when the technical solutions are available,they have the best chance of success.We urge fellow suppliers,brands and retailers,and other stakeholders to make use of the learnings from Tackling Microfibres at Source to enable greater innovation i

21、n textile manufacturing and a more sustainable fashion industry.Keith MaStrategic Director,Ramatex GroupAbout the Ocean Innovation ChallengeThe ocean faces unprecedented threats to the ecosystem goods and services it provides to humanity-from climate regulation to food security to coastal tourism.De

22、spite some progress,many ocean challenges-from nutrient pollution to illegal,unregulated and unreported(IUU)fishing to ocean acidification-continue to worsen.For most sectors that rely on the ocean such as fisheries,aquaculture,and industrial agriculture,the business as usual scenario will not deliv

23、er the kinds of transformational change needed to move towards truly sustainable ocean use.A combination of technical innovation and cutting-edge policy,financial and economic incentives are needed to transform ocean-related sectors,both sea-based and land-based.At present,while there are a handful

24、of relevant initiatives,these are limited in their sectoral scope.Solutions that cut across the unique innovation needs of each SDG14 target are required,whether it be reduction of plastics pollution,eliminating overfishing,or enhancing access for small scale fishers.The UNDP Ocean Innovation Challe

25、nge(OIC)seeks to identify and provide support to scale-up these solutions to achieve maximum catalytic impact.With funding support from SIDA and NORAD,the OIC is a unique new mechanism designed to accelerate progress on SDG14 by identifying,financing,advising and mentoring truly innovative,entrepren

26、eurial and creative approaches to ocean and coastal restoration and protection that sustains livelihoods and advances the blue economy.UNDP aims to support 100 ocean innovations by 2030 through the UNDP Ocean Promise,which was launched at the UN Ocean Conference in Lisbon.Currently,the OIC supports

27、two cohorts of 17 diverse organizations to pilot ocean innovations,engaging with 17 developing and least-developed countries,including six small island developing states(SIDS),with the third cohort underway.Tackling Microfibres at Source6Forum for the Future|2023ProfilesForum for the Future is a lea

28、ding international sustainability non-profit.For more than 25 years weve been working in partnership with business,governments and civil society to accelerate the shift towards a just and regenerative future in which both people and the planet thrive.As our environmental,social and economic crises i

29、ntensify,the world is rapidly changing,with multiple transitions already reshaping how we all live and work.But will we go far enough,and fast enough?Forum is focused on enabling deep transformation in three game-changing areas:how we think about,produce,consume and value both food and energy,and th

30、e role of business in society and the economy.Were working with ambitious and diverse change-makers to shift how they feel,think,act and collaborate to drive systemic change for sustainability.Forum for the Future(Programme Lead)Established in 1976,Ramatex Group is a Tier-1 manufacturer of apparel p

31、roducts headquartered in Singapore,serving some of the worlds leading global sportswear and fashion brands.With operations across Malaysia,Cambodia,China,Jordan,and Vietnam,Ramatex drives innovation from its vertically integrated textile parks in Malaysia and China.Ramatex has a strong track record

32、in environmental and social sustainability performance.Through a long-term strategic planning process facilitated by Forum for the Future,Ramatex identified transitioning to a circular economy for fashion as an opportunity to apply its manufacturing expertise to regional environmental challenges.Ram

33、atex is well positioned to drive a positive impact on water-related challenges,leveraging the companys technical capabilities in industry-leading wastewater treatment systems and closed-loop water recycling systems.Currently,Ramatex recycles more than half of the water used in its Malaysia and China

34、 textile parks.As a vertically integrated manufacturer(fibre,yarn,fabric and garment),Ramatex directly controls processes across garment manufacturing,fabric production,yarn spinning and fibre processing.This places Ramatex in the unique position to study how design and manufacturing processes acros

35、s all stages impact microfibre shedding of final products.Ramatex Group(Industry Partner)Tackling Microfibres at Source7Forum for the Future|2023NEWRI is a research and technology organisation in the environment and water domain.It strives t o translate the innovations in its labs to engineered solu

36、tions for the water and environmental markets.NEWRI bridges deep research with cutting-edge innovation,robust engineering coupled with industry-level translation,to field applications,piloting and deployment at full scale in real-life settings.Through industrial and CSR projects with commercial and

37、social impact,NEWRI continuously strives to make a difference towards developing a true circular economy through efficient reuse innovations and harnessing the value in waste.NEWRI has a strong track record in research relating to contaminants in water supplies and has recently conducted research st

38、udying the release of microplastics from toys and food packaging materials.Nanyang Environment and Water Resources Institute(NEWRI)(Research Lead)Founder Nicole van der Elst Desai has 20 years of experience working in the fashion industry,working with brands and retailers as well as their manufactur

39、ing partners.She is a valued expert in the field of textile innovation,technology and sustainability,and has experience in chemical dyes and water,and in a materials lab.A graduate of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute in the Netherlands,she is passionate about creating better products and processes th

40、at leave behind a better planet.University of Technology Malaysia(UTM)is one of the five universities in Malaysia well-known in the field of engineering,science and technology.UTM houses more than 10 research alliances comprising 28 research centres of excellence in total.This earned UTM a reputatio

41、n for cutting-edge research undertakings and innovative education.The reputation is further enhanced by receiving the National Intellectual Property Award for consecutively two years.In keeping with its mission of contributing to the creation of national wealth,UTM has led in the development of crea

42、tive and innovative human capital as well as advanced technologies.VDE Consultancy(Technical consultant)Universiti Teknologi Malaysia(UTM)(Research support)ProfilesTackling Microfibres at Source8Forum for the Future|2023Acronyms and keywordsTackling Microfibres at Source9Forum for the Future|2023AAT

43、CC American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists rPET Recycled polyethylene terephthalateCLA Circular Leap AsiaSAC Sustainable Apparel Coalition CVC Chief Value Cotton (cotton-polyester blend fabric)ToC Theory of ChangeCO CottonTMC The Microfibre ConsortiumEU European UnionTMAS Tackling Mi

44、crofibres at Source ITMA Textile and Garment Technology ExhibitionUNDP United Nations Development ProgrammeNEWRI Nanyang Environment and Water Resources InstituteU.S.United StatesOIC Ocean Innovation ChallengeUTM Universiti Teknologi MalaysiaPET Polyethylene terephthalateZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazar

45、dous Chemicals(certification group)IntroductionTackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023Wastewater management facility at the Ramatex factory in Johor,MalaysiaProject objectives1.To contribute to the understanding of the impacts of textile manufacturing on the microfibre pollution prob

46、lem.While global attention to the problem is increasingfor example,we now know that microfibres from textiles are a major source of microplastic pollution in the oceansthere is still little knowledge in the public domain about how microfibres are shed from the fabrics that are turned into the clothe

47、s we wear.Which production processes contribute the most to microfibre shed,and why?Do material types make a difference?What innovations are available today that could help us reduce shedding in production processes?This project hopes to contribute to a deeper understanding of these questions and mo

48、re.This study provides a methodology that suppliers can use to better understand where microfibre emissions are occurring in their manufacturing process and insights gained from applying the methodology to the manufacturing processes of a supplier(Ramatex)in the facility in Malaysia.Ultimately,the p

49、roject hopes to contribute to tackling microfibre pollution by minimising themicrofibre shed within production processes(at source),so as to significantly reduce shedding at the consumer stage.The research and findings from this project are made available publicly as an open source to accelerate cha

50、nge in the industry.2.To identify and understand the driving forces behind the microfibre pollution problem linked to the textile industry.Why is it challenging to bring about change in the industry?What is preventing suppliers from undertaking more sustainable processes?What role do brands and reta

51、ilers play in driving change?The project identifies where opportunities for intervention lie in the production process,and how it is broadly different for the various tiers of suppliers within the supply chain,as well as for brands and retailers.Tackling Microfibres at Source11Forum for the Future|2

52、0233.To create momentum and catalyse action for stakeholders to adopt transformative solutions that can lead to long-term meaningful changes that not only significantly reduce microfibre pollution in the environment,but also shift the industry to one that is more just and regenerative for all.Althou

53、gh we all want straightforward solutions that solve the problem,like climate change,the microfibre problem is one that is complex;there are major gaps in knowledge on their environmental and human health impacts,and if all fibres(natural or synthetic)cause the same degree of harm and why.We have tak

54、en a systemic approach in the understanding and framing of the microfibre pollution problem.This means while we zoom in to understand what the research numbers say,it is equally important to zoom out to understand how various stakeholders interact with one another in the industry,which has impacts o

55、n the processes undertaken in production,and contributes to the complexity of the problem.Similarly,while we aim to understand the impacts of each material type or solution,we do not examine them in isolation but instead place them within larger contexts such as their carbon footprint,water use and

56、social impacts.This allows us to better understand their overall impact and avoid jumping to quick solutions that may create new or exacerbate existing problems.Tackling Microfibres at Source12Forum for the Future|2023Important notes on our scope1.Microfibres within this project refer to both synthe

57、tic and natural fibres.While the general understanding of the term“microfibre”is a fibre from a synthetic source e.g.polyester,we have broadened this term to include natural fibres e.g.cotton.We strongly recommend this broadening of scope as all fibres shed regardless of source,and there is now evid

58、ence to indicate that natural fibres might persist in the environment.To keep a narrow definition of microfibres as purely microplastics risks ignoring a large source of microfibre pollution.2.We have used the term“supplier”as a catch-all for the various tiers of textile manufacturers in the industr

59、y.A dyeing mill(Tiers 2 and 3)is a supplier to a cut and sew company(Tier 1),who is in turn a supplier to a brand.The definition of supplier in this report refers to both of these types of suppliers,and a customer is the company that purchases from each of these suppliers.3.Our technical research an

60、d analysis of dyeing solutions is based on work with one supplier,Ramatex Group,and samples were taken from their facility in Johor,Malaysia.Our analysis of dyeing solutions is influenced by their circumstances,context,organisational culture and values unique to them.It should be noted that Ramatex

61、is a vertically integrated supplier that has a strong track record in environmental and social sustainability,e.g.use of a reverse osmosis wastewater management system and solar energy.Given the importance of context in analysis,readers should keep this in mind throughout the report.4.A geographic f

62、ocus on South and Southeast Asia.While microfibre pollution is a global problem,much of textile manufacturing takes place in the Global South,mainly in Asia.We have thus chosen to focus on South and Southeast Asia and the bulk of our stakeholder interviews and analysis are based on the textile manuf

63、acturing ecosystems there.However,we are confident that the insights will be useful to the manufacturing ecosystem in other geographies.5.Further research is needed in many areas to draw clear conclusions.This project is intended to serve as a starting point to think about textile manufacturing and

64、its impacts on the microfibre pollution problem.As research progressed,it revealed the gap of knowledge in many areas such as yarn type,yarn construction and the different material types and their impacts on microfibre shed.The textile manufacturing ecosystem is vast.A typical fashion brand reports

65、between 1,000 and 2,000 suppliers,1 with numbers reaching 20,000 to 50,000 when including sub-suppliers.Solutions will look different for different tiers of suppliers.While we have provided targeted recommendations for each tier,we are aware that they remain broad and would benefit from further rese

66、arch,which falls outside the scope of this project.We acknowledge that we have primarily engaged progressive suppliers in this study.Finally,there are clear limitations in the existing knowledge on the impacts of microfibre ingestion on human and organism health.These areas of research are also beyo

67、nd this project.Tackling Microfibres at Source13Forum for the Future|2023Tackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023Executive SummaryAerial view of Ramatex factory in Johor,MalaysiaFive key takeaways1.The importance of installing a robust wastewater treatment system.Wastewater treatment

68、systems can reduce or eliminate microfibres from polluting the environment,and can also treat polluted water from textile manufacturing processes.In many jurisdictions,this is already a requirement for the licence to operate though implementation varies from country to country.2.The textile industry

69、 should accelerate the move away from processing in heated baths and tanks filled with water,to machinery that requires very little to no water,and significantly less energy and chemistry.2 This will entail machine-based technologies and innovations or a range of machine and operations-based innovat

70、ions that currently exist,which present varying levels of potential for shifting the textile industry away from conventional dyeing and wet processes.Whilst chemistry solutions may be more accessible to suppliers and less disruptive to their existing setup,a shift from wet processes to dry processes

71、involving machine-based innovations in the dyeing mill holds greater potential as a transformational solution.3.The impetus for suppliers to adopt more sustainable practices is often driven by the need to comply with their customers low-cost and speed demands rather than through their own agency to

72、contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.This hinders the shift towards a more just and regenerative industry as suppliers are not able to fully tap on their potential as change agents.4.One key reason for this apparent lack of supplier agency is the absence of collaboration between brands

73、and their suppliers that would place risk equally between both parties.Collaborations mean that brands work with suppliers on solutions,rather than asking them to work on their own and offer a solution.To enable the success of long-term sustainable solutions that tackle microfibres at source,the ind

74、ustry needs to build new ways for brands and suppliers to work together.5.More research on factors that impact microfibre shed in the production stage such as yarn and material type are urgently needed to accelerate the development of solutions.Similarly,more research to understand the potential imp

75、lications of microfibre ingestion on human and organism health is also critical and will help to advance greater upstream action.Policy has an important role to play in catalysing funding opportunities in these research areas.Tackling Microfibres at Source15Forum for the Future|2023The Microfibre Ch

76、allengeTackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023“If we dont act now,by 2050 there could be more plastic than fish in the ocean.”This alarming statistic by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation3 sums up the magnitude of the marine plastic pollution problem the world now faces.Microplastics in

77、particular pose a huge challenge given their small size(less than 5mm),which means they are easily ingested by marine organisms.They are contaminating the earth and can be found in even remote regions of the Arctic and the deep sea floor of the Mariana Trench.4,5 Research indicates that microplastic

78、s can also be found in our bodies and are bioavailable for uptake into the human bloodstream.6 However,their exact health impacts have not yet been demonstrated.7Microfibres from textiles contribute significantly to microplastics in the oceansMicrofibres from synthetic sources are a dominant compone

79、nt of microplastics found in the oceans.According to a recent report,synthetic textiles contribute the greatest amount of primary microplastics(35%of annual emission into oceans).In fact,natural fibres also contribute to microfibre pollution,adding to the size of the problem.8 With the growth of the

80、 fashion industry,and in particular the continued popularity of fast fashion,microfibre pollution in the environment is set to grow.Evidence points to textile-based fibres released via household laundry and municipal wastewater as a significant source,and research shows that textile properties such

81、as yarn type and construction,chemical and mechanical treatment influence the degree of microfibre shedding during domestic laundry.Yet,most recent research has focused on the consumer end-product,including testing and exploring solutions for consumers to reduce microfibre shed.9Image 1:from Toward

82、eliminating pre-consumer emissions of microplastics from the textile industry,The Nature Conservancy“We estimate that pre-consumer textile manufacturing releases 0.12 million metric tons(MT)per year of synthetic microfibres into the environmenta similar order of magnitude to that of the consumer use

83、 phase(laundering).That would mean for every 500 t-shirts manufactured;one is lost as microfibre pollution.”Toward eliminating pre-consumer emissions of microplastics from the textile industry,The Nature Conservancy.10Tackling Microfibres at Source17Forum for the Future|2023The industry is not yet f

84、ocusing on the problemThere is limited research on how upstream manufacturing processes contribute to microfibre pollution,and at the start of this project,we were unaware of research being undertaken to understand exactly why and how microfibres are shed from textiles in their production stage.This

85、 presents a gap in knowledge that hinders the fashion industry from taking action to tackle the growing problem of microfibre pollution.In a report11 by the Carbon Disclosure Project(CDP),it confirmed that fashion and textile companies were generally not aware of and not accounting for their water p

86、ollution risks,including the release of microfibres at the production stages.Textile guides widely used by the industry such as the annual Textile Exchanges Preferred Fibre and Markets Report do not yet include microfibre shed as an important component.Regulations are on the horizonDespite the indus

87、trys limited response towards the microfibre pollution problem,the first regulations targeting microfibre pollution are on the horizon.The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles launched in 202212 has made clear that by 2030 textile products placed on the EU market should be long-lived an

88、d recyclable,to a great extent made of recycled fibres,free of hazardous substances and produced in respect of social rights and the environment.As part of the strategy,regulations are likely to include ecodesign requirements,tackling microplastic pollution measures that are set to be released in 20

89、22/2023,and a digital passport that makes information on the products sustainability transparent.By minimising the microfibre shed within production processes(at source),our understanding is that this should also significantly reduce shedding at the consumer stage,thus resulting in the overall reduc

90、tion of the problem from the textile industry.We hope for this project to serve as a starting point that ignites action from the industry to rise to the challenge of tackling microfibre pollution and preserving healthy oceans for all.Tackling Microfibres at Source18Forum for the Future|2023Tackling

91、Microfibres at Source19Forum for the Future|2023Impact on the environmentImpact on human health Research gaps Factors driving changeLimited understanding mostly focused on microplastics rather than microfibres:Microplastics can cause tissue damage,oxidative stress and changes in immune-related gene

92、expression,and antioxidant status in fishNeurotoxicity,retardation in growth in fishBehavioural abnormalities observedLimited understanding:Microplastics can be detected in human body parts and in the human bloodstream13Inhaled plastic microfibres may persist in the lungs and could cause respiratory

93、 problems14Microplastics might cause oxidative stress,cytotoxicity,and translocation to other tissues15Microplastics act as vectors for microorganisms and toxic chemicals posing further health risks161.Impacts on human health when ingested or inhaled,and via skin contact(toxicity)2.Impacts on the en

94、vironment-especially in the oceans and waterways(biodegradability,impacting on ability to persist in the environment)3.Impacts on marine life and organism health ultimately contributing to human health4.Impacts on livelihoods affected due to contaminated seafood1.Regulations-regional,global e.g.EU;U

95、nited Nations Treaty on Plastic Pollution2.Growing climate and ecological crisis3.Increased understanding of the health impacts of(synthetic and natural)microfibre ingestion4.Growing consumer awareness about plastic pollution;demands for more sustainable products5.Industry actors using sustainabilit

96、y as a differentiating factorTable 1:At a glance:what we understand about microfibre impacts and the many gaps todayTheory of ChangeTackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023Yarn packing area in the Ramatex polyester millFor this project,Forum partnered with a vertically integrated supp

97、lier,Ramatex Group,and research lab NEWRI to develop and test a methodology for identifying what manufacturing processes most contribute to microfibre shedding.We sought to understand:1.How might suppliers contribute to reducing microfibre shedding in their manufacturing process?2.How might supplier

98、s be provided with the means to test their own manufacturing processes to reduce microfibre shedding?3.How can we better understand the systemic barriers to upstream solutions that tackle the microfibre pollution problem?Combined,these actions contribute to protecting and conserving the marine ecosy

99、stems for sustainable development.Tackling Microfibres at Source21Forum for the Future|2023BackgroundThe goals of the fast fashion business model incentivise suppliers to compete on their ability to reduce cost and to deliver at speed,with little to no regard to the negative environmental and social

100、 impacts on the environment and workers.In this context the mindset of suppliers,when asked to lead innovation to reduce microfibre shedding might be,“if a brand isnt asking for it,theres no value in investing in it”and“not if it adds to costs.”Yet,given how typical fashion brands have over a thousa

101、nd suppliers and almost 20,00050,000 sub-suppliers,17 and that upstream microfibre shedding makes up almost half of overall microfibre shedding,we know that suppliers need to be considered an active,critical part of the solution to reduce shedding at the levels needed.We will not successfully tackle

102、 the microfibre pollution problem without suppliers being an equal driver to the solution.However,the structure of current business models limit the potential for supplier-driven innovation and,ultimately,industry transformation.This project aims to indicate what actions a supplier might take and th

103、e systemic barriers they face in implementing solutions that reduce microfibre shedding.Tackling Microfibres at Source22Forum for the Future|2023Current challengeTarget GroupActivitiesNear-term outcomesLong-term outcomesSuppliers are not incentivised nor have the agency to reduce microfibre shedding

104、 in upstream manufacturing processesThere is minimal insight into what upstream processes contribute to microfibre shedding Primary:Suppliers(all tiers),particularly mid-to-large sized progressive suppliers with most of their operations in AsiaBrands and retailers,in particular those with supply cha

105、ins in AsiaTrade associations of the textile industry and fashion industrySecondary:Interest and Research groups1.Partner to develop a research methodology to test in what ways we might reduce microfibre shedding in the manufacturing process2.Baseline research into what processes contribute most to

106、shedding and investigative research into how to reduce microfibre shedding3.Engagement with suppliers in the region and the industry at large,to better understand the barriers to adopting new practicesA methodology for testing microfibre shedding that can be replicated with other suppliersInsights o

107、n potential intervention points in the manufacturing process to reduce sheddingWe gain better insights on how to address systemic barriers to upstream innovationSuppliers have more agency to address the microfibre challenge in their manufacturing plantsSuppliers invest in and adopt new practices to

108、reduce microfibre sheddingThe power dynamic between brands and suppliers has begun to shift to a more equitable partnership to address the microfibre challengeGoal:Oceans are healthier due to the reduction of microfibre emissions from upstream manufacturing processesTable 2:TMAS Theory of ChangeTheo

109、ry of ChangeTackling Microfibres at SourceMethodologyForum for the Future|2023PET chips being processed at the Ramatex polyester mill LOREMIPSUM:DOLORSIT AMETThis section summarises the research scope,approach and process.The full technical report is available for download on Forums website.Textile

110、manufacturing generally involves turning raw material(fibre)into finished clothing products.The research in TMAS focuses on the upstream steps that involve turning raw material into polyester or cotton yarn,which is then made into fabric and undergoes different treatment,colouration and finishing pr

111、ocesses.The image below illustrates,in the top half,a general representation of the textile manufacturing process,and in the bottom half highlights the specific process steps that take place in the Ramatex factory where samples for testing were collected.An explanation of each process step can be fo

112、und in Appendix A,table 9.Tackling Microfibres at Source24Forum for the Future|2023Image 2:General process of textile manufacturingTackling Microfibres at Source25Forum for the Future|2023Different types of samples(water or dry)were collected from each process step,as seen in the images from Ramatex

113、s facilities below:Image 3:A Ramatex worker conducting quality checks on spools of polyester yarnImage 4:Cotton in the process of being spunIn dyeing,water is used as part of the process and released after completion.Therefore,a water sample was collected for testing as part of our research.Image 5:

114、Ramatex dyeing millResearch operating principle and contextThe overarching purpose is to investigate opportunities to reduce microfibre shedding in the fashion industry through textile design and manufacturing innovation.In the course of the research,the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdowns in Singapore

115、and Malaysia disrupted our ability to collect water samples and transport them across borders,and in this period we collaborated with Malaysian research lab UTM to ensure the continuation of the research.The operating principle of the overall research is to analyse textiles that are produced and pur

116、chased in the highest volumes,or are of importance to the industry so as to create the greatest impact through their study.Overview of the baseline research and investigative researchThe objective of the baseline research is to understand the textile fibre being shed at the textile manufacturing pro

117、cess,and to establish which step contributes most to shedding within the scope of the chosen textiles and textile colours(Appendix A,table 10).Guided by the research operating principle,the baseline research collected samples from the most prevalent processing steps and the most high-volume fabrics

118、and colours at the Ramatex facilities in Malaysia.The sample types and quantities collected for the baseline research can be found in Appendix A,table 11.From these samples we measured four main types of results-fibre mass,fibre quantity,fibre length and length distribution-and in addition,for the s

119、amples from the cotton and polyester blend textiles,we tested for fibre type to understand the raw material from which the shedded fibre was made of(see Appendix A,table 12).The findings from the baseline research inform the scope of the investigative research,which sets out to develop interventions

120、 that can be potentially applied to the textile manufacturing process to reduce microfibre shedding.The types of interventions were developed with Ramatex,and were informed by what could be achieved in the lab by NEWRI.In the investigative research phase we focused on measuring fibre mass,as the bas

121、eline research showed that this was a useful indicator to standardise the measurements for practical,industry-wide application.Throughout this process,the input from Ramatex and NEWRI was integral to defining the research scope.The scope of testing in the baseline research differed from the investig

122、ative research as it took into account different practical and operational considerations,and relied on the expertise of our partners in their respective fields.Tackling Microfibres at Source26Forum for the Future|2023The testing methodology in our baseline research is developed with cost effectiven

123、ess and high levels of replicability in mind.Suppliers,in particular progressive ones with the ability to leverage their resources and relationships with brands and/or retailers,are encouraged to consider adopting and developing this methodology to start measuring microfibre shedding in their manufa

124、cturing processes.This report provides a summary of the scope and methodology.Full details may be found in the technical research report linked to on our webpage.Tackling Microfibres at Source27Forum for the Future|2023Image 6 summarises the different components of our baseline research,including th

125、e manufacturing process steps from which water and dry samples were collected,a brief overview of the flow of testing,and the types of results and selected textiles and colours within the scope of the baseline research.For the testing we developed a methodology to understand the profile of the micro

126、fibres in the samples collected for this project.Image 7 illustrates the flow of the testing methodology and an outline of key points to note about this process can be found in Appendix A,table 12.Image 6:Summary of baseline research scope and methodology FiltrationBoth leached sample and discharge-

127、water sample will be filtered;fibre sample.-Glass filter-fibre mass of sampleAfter chemical separation for cotton rich only!-Cellulose and glass fibre-polyester fibre massChemical separationTo dissolve cellulosic fibres the filtered water will be treated with H2SO4 for cotton rich only!After chemica

128、l separation,repeat filtrationLeachingA dry sample will be taken to leach the microfibre content in liquid;an assisted water sample.-40rpm-40C-40 min-50 stainless steel ballsAnalysis and resultsThrough different analytical equipment the different fibre samples will be analysed.-Keyence microscope:fi

129、bre quantity and fibre size distribution-FITR:fibre type i.e.PE or PET-Analytical balance:fibre mass-Empirical formula:fibre mass(blends)Tackling Microfibres at Source28Forum for the Future|2023Image 7:Flow of baseline testing methodologyImage 8:Microscopic images of textile fibres taken by UTMPROCE

130、SSSpinningKnittingPre-treatmentDyeingHeat settingRinsingBrushingFinished textileTESTINGSAMPLESLEACHINGFILTRATIONANALYSISRESULTS1.Fibre mass2.Fibre quantity3.Fibre length4.Fibre length distribution5.Fibre type(for CVC fleece samples)TMC/AATCCConsumer laundry release method;Fibre massDyeingHeat settin

131、gTwo process steps were identified as contributing the most to microfibre shed:The baseline research seeks to establish which step in the textile manufacturing process at the Ramatex facilities contributes most to shedding within the scope of the chosen textiles and textile colours.These findings fo

132、rmed the starting point of our investigative research phase.Tackling Microfibres at Source29Forum for the Future|2023Image 9:Moving from the baseline research into the investigative research phaseTranslating the research into actionable outcomes and recommendationsIn the investigative research phase

133、,it was critical to test our baseline results,which had identified dyeing and heat setting as the process steps contributing most to microfibre shed,against primary and secondary research sources.This included interviews,site visits,surveys and desk-based research.Crucially,on-site interviews with t

134、he Ramatex operational staff conducted at their facilities helped streamline the investigative research to focus on the dyeing process and determined the scope of testing.This covered the textile types tested and the testing variables to be applied to the test samples in a lab setting.From the dyein

135、g settings provided by Ramatex we studied how changing temperature and duration might impact and reduce microfibre shedding.The purpose of this testing was to develop recommendations for Ramatex to apply in the factory setting and reduce microfibre shedding within the dyeing process.An explanation o

136、f the progression of the investigative research is outlined in Appendix A,images 14 to 16.With the results of the investigative research we again interviewed Ramatex on the feasibility of the recommendations.We learnt that when put in practice,these lab recommended settings would compromise the fina

137、l quality of the textile product and would likely not be acceptable to the brand customer(Appendix A,table 5).We took this information into interviews with other suppliers,brands,microfibre innovators and industry interest groups,who echoed the observations made and shared other insights that prompt

138、ed us to conduct additional desk-based research into other factors in the dyeing process and textile manufacturing in general that also contribute to or influence microfibre shedding.This included various existing dyeing processes,technologies and innovations,different material types,and the crucial

139、 first step for any supplier-filtration and wastewater management.The process we undertook in this final stage is illustrated in Appendix A,images 17 and 18.This phase of the research proved to be critical to sharpening our analysis and recommendations,and was a clear instance of our Theory of Chang

140、e in action.There were two important takeaways that shaped the analysis,outcomes and recommendations presented in this report,and that are critical for any industry actor to keep in mind when tackling the microfibre challenge:Tackling Microfibres at Source30Forum for the Future|2023Summary of baseli

141、ne research results-most impactful process stepRelating to the Ramatex facilities in Malaysia,the total contribution of the seven identified textiles showed that for each of the different result types-fibre mass,fibre quantity and fibre length-heat setting was the most impactful processing step.This

142、 is discussed in detail in the technical research report linked to our webpage.Tackling Microfibres at Source31Forum for the Future|2023Transformational solutions for the microfibre challenge involve a significant level of cost and risk,largely expected to be borne by suppliers.This and other system

143、ic barriers,such as the entrenched ways of working between brands and suppliers,discourage the adoption and scaling of innovations with the potential to eliminate or greatly reduce microfibre shedding upstream.We need to address and to allow the complexity of relationships in the supply chain,the po

144、wer dynamics between suppliers and brands,and the perspectives,motivations and biases of different actors to inform our understanding of the conditions that need to be in place for transformational solutions to take root and scale.1.2.Image 10:Summary of baseline research resultsSummary of the inves

145、tigative research results impact of interventions in temperature and durationAs a broad comparison the results appeared to show that 100%recycled polyester and 100%polyester shed the most compared to the CVC and 100%cotton greige materials.This was a surprising outcome when compared to the results f

146、rom the baseline research.It should however be noted that a like-for-like comparison of the materials,especially between cotton and polyester,is difficult to achieve due to the differences in yarn types,spinning methods and so on.Tackling Microfibres at Source32Forum for the Future|2023Image 11:Summ

147、ary of investigative research resultsSolutionsTackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023Fabric being dyed at the Ramatex millBased on our research and industry discussions,at present,changes in wet processes including dyeing hold the clearest pathway for solutions to reduce microfibre s

148、hed in textile manufacturing.Please see Appendix B for a more detailed discussion of how materials and yarn options contribute to the challenge.In assessing solutions that can help reduce microfibre pollution from the textile industry,the first key solution to consider is the installation of a robus

149、t wastewater treatment system.Wastewater treatment systems can reduce or eliminate microfibres from polluting the environment,and can also treat polluted water from textile manufacturing processes.In many jurisdictions,this is already a requirement for the licence to operate though implementation va

150、ries from country to country.Tackling Microfibres at Source34Forum for the Future|2023Wet processes including dyeing Based on our research findings,we focused on wet processes including dyeing,given that they have the greatest impact on microfibre shed as seen from the results of our testing.However

151、,at present there is limited openly available information on the impact of wet processes,including dyeing,on microfibre shed in textile manufacturing.Wet processes are the steps that require the input of significant amounts of water and that are required to prepare the fabric for dyeing and to ensur

152、e that the dyes are properly set to achieve the desired quality in a product.Dyeing is the application of colour to a textile material with some level of permanence.Colourants that are applied to the textiles are called dyes.To dye a textile material and produce the final colour,the dye needs to att

153、ach to the chemical molecular structure of the textile fibres.This dye-fibre molecular association is responsible for the degree of fastness or permanence of the colour.Dyes are typically fibre specific.18Chemical products and agents are added during dyeing to allow the dye process to be carried out

154、 more effectively.For dyeing to be considered successful,the following parameters are considered:Colour strength(shade)and colour matchingColour levelnessColour fastness Hand feelShrinkageFabric width and weightPlease refer to Appendix C for a more detailed explanation of the dyeing process.Why is t

155、he dyeing process problematic?Environmental and social impacts of the dyeing process Textile production is one of the biggest sources of global water pollution,mostly due to the dyeing process.In essence,the dyeing process is problematic because of three main reasons:Tackling Microfibres at Source35

156、Forum for the Future|20231.Water consumptionThe dyeing process is a water intensive one.A single fabric mill can use up to 200 tons of fresh water to dye one ton of fabric19 because almost all dyes,specialty and finishing chemicals are applied to textiles through the use of water baths.The sub-steps

157、 that are part of the preparations for the dyeing process such as scouring and bleaching also require water systems.Depending on where the cotton was grown,a pair of denim jeans could require around 2,000 gallons of water to produce a single pair of jeans from growing raw cotton to the finished prod

158、uct.20While water consumption varies among suppliers,Image 12 highlights the water intensity of the dyeing process and the preparations required beforehand,with the exception of some processes that are particularly low in water consumption e.g.cold pad-batch dyeing,which is explored as a potential p

159、oint of intervention in this report.21The water intensity of the full dyeing process can be mitigated by a closed-loop water system,which ensures minimal freshwater is used by treating and reusing wastewater already in the factory system.This is the case for the Ramatex factory in Malaysia.However,m

160、any suppliers,especially those situated in developing countries that do not operate under strict environmental and health regulations,do not yet employ closed-loop systems.As droughts and water scarcity become increasingly intense with global warming,wet processing in the“business as usual”methods w

161、ill no longer be feasible or acceptable.2.Water pollution and impacts on human and organism healthThe dyeing process is also a major contributor to water pollution and consequently,to negative impacts on human and organism health.To achieve the blue colour in denim jeans,the thread or fabric is repe

162、atedly soaked in large amounts of indigo dye.After dyeing,the denim undergoes more chemical treatments to soften the fabric or give it texture.It is put through more chemical baths to ensure a faded“worn”look.Each time new colours are added to fashion collections,new chemicals and pigments have to b

163、e added.Image 12:Water consumption for various wet processing stepsTackling Microfibres at Source36Forum for the Future|2023These textile dyes and chemicals such as azo dyes can be highly toxic and potentially carcinogenic,22 and cause environmental degradation as well as diseases in both humans and

164、 animals.23 Again,while many suppliers have methods to reduce or capture this harmful wastewater such as through a closed-loop water system,many factories in developing economies still release wastewater into nearby waterways,eventually flowing into the sea.24The toxicity of textile dyes are also ca

165、used by oral ingestion,having contact with reactive dyes,and inhalation of dust25 that trigger irritations to the skin and eyes.26 It is important to note that some factories still do not provide adequate protective clothing for workers.There is evidence of the persistence of these chemicals in conv

166、entional treatment plants and water systems that eventually lead to public water supplies.27 Long-term exposures in particular,may have serious impacts on aquatic biota and human health.283.Energy consumptionAccording to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation the fashion industry is responsible for 10%of an

167、nual global carbon emissions,more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.29 Studies suggest that the wet processing and finishing steps account for about 36%to 38%of the energy used in textile manufacturing.30,31 This is not surprising as dyeing processes require large amounts

168、 of energy to heat big quantities of water.(Because of the diversity and fragmentation of the textile manufacturing industry,it is not always possible to form a clear picture of the carbon footprint of individual suppliers,which is dependent on their energy source,e.g.renewable energy,coal,electrici

169、ty etc.)Dyeing solutions and innovationsDue to the limited scope in changing temperature and duration settings within the heat setting step,as well as the current impracticality of measuring these changes alongside other dye settings,we have assessed that it would be more beneficial to focus our ana

170、lysis on potential solutions that could reduce or eliminate microfibre shed by replacing conventional water based dyeing methods.Some of these technologies and innovations also reduce the environmental harm and impacts on human health from conventional wet processing.Potential solutions that replace

171、 traditional dyeing methodsThe ideal solution to addressing the negative impacts that arise from conventional dyeing,including microfibre shed,energy consumption,water use and pollution,and so on,would be to move away from wet processes towards dry processes.In other words,moving away from processin

172、g in heated baths and tanks filled with water,to machinery that requires very little to no water,and significantly less energy and chemistry.32 This will entail machine-based technologies and innovations.It is estimated that this shift could potentially reduce CO emissions by up to 89%and reduce wat

173、er consumption by between 83%to 95%.33 In addition,a significant reduction or even elimination of the use of water in the dyeing mill translates to the greatest possible impact in reducing the amount of microfibres that enter waterways and the oceans through the effluent from wet processes.Tackling

174、Microfibres at Source37Forum for the Future|20231.Dope DyeingDope dyeing is a technique used on synthetic fibres in which pigments are added to liquid polymer before synthetic fibres are formed in a process called extrusion.Yarns that can be produced dope dyed include polyester,nylon,polypropylene,p

175、olyethylene,viscose,meta-aramid,para-aramid and PET.34 It produces results of excellent colour fastness and reduces the many impacts of the dyeing process.According to the findings of Swedish brand IKEA,this reduced water consumption by 80%,dyestuff consumption by more than 20%,the use of other chem

176、ical agents like alkaline by 80%and electricity usage by 7%compared to traditional dyeing.35 Since the extrusion process with pigment is almost the same as the production of fibres,it is cost effective.A disadvantage with dope dyeing is that it requires extra cleaning between colours and there are l

177、ess opportunities to create custom colours.36 It is a less flexible process commercially and the colour range produced needs to be carefully chosen to avoid large stockholding,but it is viable for certain large volume shades e.g.black.37Dope dyeing has a few means of application.For a supplier like

178、Ramatex with the capacity to process raw material,this can be built in-house within the polyester mill.However,it is not common amongst suppliers to have the in-house capability for dope dyeing application.In-house dope dyeing requires significant investment and commitment from both the supplier and

179、 brand customer(s).Alternatively,suppliers can purchase dope dyed yarns from an external vendor such as We aRe sPin Dye.38At present only a limited number of colours are used or are available,and implementation at scale would entail a number of factors.Firstly,the suppliers of the PET pellets(also k

180、nown as masterbatch)would have to significantly expand the range of their formulations and potentially overhaul their supply chains to meet the full colour demands of the brand customer.39 Secondly,the textile manufacturer would have to build out the operational capacity to be able to meet the deman

181、ds of production volume and schedules and in turn justify the cost of ordering certain specific coloured PET chips.The third and most important factor is that this solution hinges on the brand customers ability to commit to sufficient order volumes that justify the cost and lower of risk of wastage,

182、as suppliers avoid storing the coloured PET chips40 after they are produced.It is also tied to the suppliers willingness to bear the attendant risks,such as the lack of flexibility in adjusting the dye proportions,which conventional dyeing machines offer.Image 13:Illustration of dope dyeing processT

183、ackling Microfibres at Source38Forum for the Future|20232.Digital Textile PrintingDigital textile printing is a process that has been increasing in popularity particularly in manufacturing regions that specialise in fast fashion.There are primarily two successful digital printing methods:sublimation

184、 printing and direct digital printing.41 Its rise in popularity is due to its high colour fastness,cost effectiveness,and speed in comparison to traditional methods of screen printing.However,digital printing methods are rather limited in use;they are used mostly for prints e.g.batik or repeat print

185、s,and do not work for block dyeing items e.g.a basic coloured hoodie.It does not deeply penetrate fabrics,which makes it more difficult to use on thicker materials like denim42 or fabrics that require high stretch.43Sublimation printing.Through a two-step dye sublimation process,a printed paper is b

186、onded to polyester using heat and pressure.44 Using a heat roller,the sublimation ink on the paper evaporates and diffuses as the pores of the polyester fabric open.This allows the ink vapour to penetrate the fabric.45 It does not use water,and less chemicals are used than in traditional dyeing.Howe

187、ver,the dyes can still be toxic,may release fumes from the heat transfer,and release affluent in the washing process.The method cannot be used on cellulosic fibres like cotton and is best used on lighter coloured fabrics.46 Direct digital printing.In direct digital printing,fabrics are pre-treated w

188、ith a stiffening chemical,then passed through an inkjet printer,and then washed to remove any residue.The fabric is coloured by droplets of ink,which are produced by multiple print heads positioned a few millimetres above the substrate.47 Different inks are best suited to different materials which m

189、akes it difficult to print on mixed-fibre materials with high fastness properties.Operationally,direct digital printing is feasible:printing utilises the same dyestuffs as traditional dyeing,and the printing machines can be installed next to the traditional setup to implement a gradual transition.Ho

190、wever,the supplier would have to consider if this would be the best utilisation of their space.48 Furthermore,with printing currently unable to meet the capacity and production volumes of traditional dyeing49 as well as producing results that fall short of certain product requirements such as poorer

191、 handfeel and aesthetic outcomes,50 this transition may not be viable in the immediate term.3.Supercritical carbon dioxide dyeingA supercritical fluid is a substance above its supercritical temperature and pressure,and has the properties in between a gas and a liquid.Carbon dioxide has been widely s

192、tudied and used due to its convenient critical point,cheapness,chemical stability,non-flammability,stability in radioactive applications and non-toxicity.51 Typically,the CO used is a waste product of combustion,fermentation and ammonia synthesis,so it does not have to be specially produced for dyei

193、ng,and there are other advantages such as:52Post-dyeing,it is easy to separate the CO from the unused dye and hence potentially recycle themUnlike in water based dyeing,it does require energy-intensive drying after the dyeing stepIt does not require a disperse agent for dyeing polyester,which means

194、simpler dye formulations can be used,and it has a higher rate of dyeing compared to conventional processes.At the time of writing,CO dyeing does not seem to have scaled as expected.From our conversations with the industry,while water use was reduced the energy savings did not match up to expectation

195、s.Tackling Microfibres at Source39Forum for the Future|2023Further research and testing is still needed to build out knowledge and practical applications on reactive and non-reactive dyeing in supercritical CO.The upfront cost of equipment and technological investment is also high,which is a challen

196、ge for wide-scale adoption.534.Ultrasonic assisted wet processing(dyeing and finishing)Another way is to use ultrasonic energy to clean or homogenise materials,which helps speed up physical and chemical reactions and in turn improve dyeing processes.Ultrasonic technologies can be used to dye both sy

197、nthetic and cellulosic fibres.Ultrasonic waves are vibrations with frequencies above 17 kHz-outside the auditory range for humans-that require an elastic medium to propagate.In general they can function under low temperatures and reduce the consumption and concentration of auxiliary chemicals,in tur

198、n reducing the pollution load in effluent.When used alone or combined with enzymatic treatments they can reduce processing times and potentially cost,minimise fibre damage,and create uniform treatment of the fabric.54 This in turn can help increase colour strength and fastness.55 The trade-off is th

199、at ultrasonic waves require high intensities and these are produced by electricity,which represents energy consumption-albeit less costly than the thermal energy which is used in the process.Ultimately,while the technology is not new,testing seems to be at the lab level despite its promise and has n

200、ot yet been commercially scaled up.Reasons include,the variability of the wave intensity with different-sized production equipment creating unpredictability,and potential inconsistencies in the production process.56Conclusion on technologies and innovations in dyeing and wet processesThere are numer

201、ous potential options within the dyeing process involving chemistry and machine-based solutions,all with their advantages and disadvantages.Whilst chemistry solutions may be more accessible to the manufacturer and less disruptive to their existing dyeing setup,a shift from wet processes to dry proce

202、sses involving machine-based innovations in the dyeing mill holds greater potential as a transformational solution to the microfibre pollution problem.However,any adoption and scaling of innovations or solutions requires a fair,balanced and committed level of collaboration between suppliers and thei

203、r brand customers.As mentioned,the industry is up against significant barriers to change:for the majority of suppliers worldwide,the industry continues to unfairly place the burden of cost and risk on the upstream supply chain.In the current landscape,even if the manufacturer does cough up the inves

204、tment,brands do not necessarily commit to the ensuing outcomesand with machine technologies estimated to range from USD 150,000 to 20,000,000,this daunting undertaking can put off many suppliers entirely.57 It should also be noted that operating costs for maintenance and upkeep of machines often out

205、weigh the capital investment,making them a long-term expense for the manufacturer.Table 3 on the next page compares a selection of dyeing technologies and wastewater treatment based on the level of potential shown in tackling microfibres and how widely considered they are by the industry.SolutionStr

206、engthsDrawbacksPotential for positive impact on the environment and worker healthPotential for reducing microfibresPotential to transform the systemWastewater treatment Tackles several environmental problemsRequires significant financial investment(depending on technology)HighHigh-already considered

207、 a requirement in many countriesLowDope dyeingProven technologyHigh quality productNo water used in the processRequires significant financial investmentShade limitationsRequires prior brand commitment to outputWorks only with synthetic fibresHighHighHighCold pad-batch dyeingProven technologyReduced

208、water useReduced energy useHigh product qualityRequires some financial investmentWorks only on cellulosic fibresMedium High-Low abrasion on fibresMediumSupercritical CO dyeingNo water used in the processCan be used on both synthetic and cotton fibresNot yet scaled Significant investment requiredPote

209、ntially high energy usageHigh quality productMedium-energy use remains highHigh HighUltrasonic assisted dyeing Less water used in the processHelps minimise fibre damageHigh product qualityNot yet scaled Potentially high energy useLow-energy use potentially highHighHighDry digital printing(e.g.sublim

210、ation)Little to no water used in the processSignificant investment required for machinePotentially high energy useDyes can still be toxicCostly to operate-cost of ink is highVarying qualityFabric requires preparation for printingOnly used for specific purposes e.g.repeat prints;not for dyeing full f

211、abricsWorks only on polyester fibres or polyester blendsRequires consumer acceptance of the look of the products due to print-only styleMediumHighLow-cannot yet replace conventional wet dyeingTable 3:Comparison of dye technologies and wastewater treatmentsSystemic Barriers to ChangeTackling Microfib

212、res at SourceForum for the Future|2023Quality inspection conducted at the Ramatex polyester millConsidering brand-supplier relationships and the role they play in driving innovationThe textile manufacturing industry has great potential to drive transformation that reduces its contribution to microfi

213、bre pollution and build a just and regenerative fashion industry.However,the potential that suppliers hold in this transformation is often overlooked,and change initiatives are mostly led by fashion brands.This is problematic because the solutions in changing wet processes and dyeing will require su

214、ppliers to implement these in their day-to-day manufacturing processes.These solutions,especially those that are potentially transformational,require significant investment upfront.Yet the existing system contains barriers that hinder suppliers from adopting more sustainable practices.The impetus fo

215、r driving change is often driven by the need to comply with their customers demands rather than through their own agency to contribute to a more sustainable textile industry.One key reason for this apparent lack of supplier agency is the lack of collaboration between brands and their suppliers,which

216、 would place risk equally between both parties-collaborations that mean brands work with suppliers on solutions,rather than asking them to work on their own and offer a solution.In the absence of such equitable collaborations between brands and suppliers,the industry currently expects suppliers to a

217、bsorb the costs and risks of implementing solutions at scale or to transform the supply chain.And while brands face a great amount of pressure to drive sustainable practices,they do not always understand the challenges faced by suppliers.Tackling Microfibres at Source42Forum for the Future|2023The v

218、ast majority of suppliers will only take on new solutions if they are viable,that is,if their brand customers are willing to share the cost of upfront capital investments to implement these changes.However,what typically happens is that brands ask their suppliers to shoulder the investment,costs and

219、 risks involved,and will only pay for it if the innovations are proven to work.Most suppliers,especially smaller ones,are reluctant to pull resources away from their livelihoods to do something that might not bear fruit.Many of the solutions,especially those related to the dyeing process evaluated w

220、ithin this report,require significant investment in the form of new machinery and setup,training for workers,and often an upfront commitment from brands on a minimum order.Even the use of novel materials and yarns require commitments from brands before suppliers would typically invest to adopt or sc

221、ale these solutions.“Brands and others(e.g.regulators)have no idea what the real cost of implementing regulations entails.”-Supplier“Most suppliers comply with regulations.Beyond that its extra investment and its a part of your value offering.If the brand does not give recognition to the additional

222、value created,these efforts will not continue.”-Supplier Most suppliers are not incentivised to lead in innovation around more sustainable products.(That said,we are aware that there are some-typically-large and progressive suppliers who are leading the way in innovation.)Brands that we spoke to sta

223、ted their openness for collaboration with their supply chain on innovation projects.However,when they extend these opportunities for innovation,they feel that they are met with disinterest from their suppliers,leading to the conclusion that these suppliers have no interest or ability to collaborate

224、on innovations.Brands express frustration at this.However,such reticence could stem from the traditional power dynamic between brands and suppliers that will take time to unravel and shift.As brands and retailers start consolidating their supply chain partners,this could emerge as a window of opport

225、unity for a more just and regenerative dynamic to replace the old,traditional ways of engagement.Transformational change in the supply chain to tackle the microfibre challenge can only begin when both these two key sets of stakeholders agree to act collectively to design solutions,and work in true p

226、artnership.Brand-supplier conversations are complex and many factors such as language or cultural barriers,the channel of communication and the level of trust established do influence outcomes.However,suppliers too need to demonstrate proactive efforts to understand the problems(e.g.climate change,m

227、icrofibre pollution),and be open to considering more sustainable options and discussing how they could be implemented.Willingness on all sides is necessary as a starting ingredient for collaborations to work.Tackling Microfibres at Source43Forum for the Future|2023“Whats the point of being innovativ

228、e if our customers dont want it?”-Supplier“There are various technologies available.What really needs to change is whether the consumer and brand customer can accept the products.”-SupplierA sustainable product e.g.one that has gone through a process that resulted in very minimal microfibre shed,is

229、likely to cost more.Is the brand customer,and are consumers willing to pay more for it?Brands can sometimes have a biased view on what suppliers can or should do.Even when the supplier tries to propose something different,they are told to focus on their core products and leave the new ideas to other

230、s.Tackling Microfibres at Source44Forum for the Future|2023Overly simplistic comparisons as solutions In response to the acute sustainability challenges facing the fashion and textile industries,there are calls to move away from synthetic fibres such as polyester,towards using more natural fibres su

231、ch as cotton.This usually stems from the understanding that synthetic fibres are derived from fossil fuels and contribute to global warming and that they persist in the environment for very long periods of time,causing significant harm to ocean and human health.On the other end,natural fibres are no

232、t derived from fossil fuels,are generally expected to biodegrade quickly in the environment,and thus cause significantly less harm overall.In addition,many brands and retailers use more recycled materials in their products,e.g.recycled polyester,and thus market these products as more environmentally

233、 friendly.Consumers therefore assume that products made from natural fibres or recycled materials have a much smaller environmental and social impact.This in turn drives up demand for more of such products.This is not necessarily accurate as all materials have an environmental and social impact,and

234、the overall understanding of the ecotoxicity or environmental impact of the various types of materials or yarn options are areas that require much more research.Moreover,the risks that processed coloured natural fibres pose,in particular,remain poorly understood.From a microfibre perspective,the gap

235、s in knowledge on the impact of yarn type and construction on microfibre shed is one crucial area that would benefit from further research.It is therefore not presently possible to accurately conclude which materials are“better”or“best”.Worker at the Ramatex cotton mill Tackling Microfibres at Sourc

236、e45Forum for the Future|2023Examples of overly broad/simplistic comparisons to conclude a“better”or“best”choice:Natural fibres versus synthetic fibres Cotton versus polyesterRecycled polyester versus virgin polyester Example:Comparing cotton versus polyesterCotton and polyester are the two most popu

237、lar material types todayin 2021,polyester made up 54%of the global fibre production,and cotton made up 22%of the global fibre market.58 There is great interest from the industry to compare these two materials for their contribution to microfibre pollution.While understanding how each material type c

238、ontributes to the problem is necessary,overly simplistic comparisons are risky and distract us from focusing on the real solutions that are needed to tackle the problem.In short,it would be like comparing“apples and oranges.”Polyester and cotton have different qualities that make them preferred choi

239、ces for different products e.g.lightness,moisture management,breathability and so on.For example,a bathing suit is not made from cotton-in this and many cases,it would not make sense to substitute polyester for cotton.In comparing the two materials for microfibre shed many different variables need t

240、o be considered,including yarn types and spinning methods which play a big role in how much the textile would shed.If we wanted to understand their overall environmental and social impacts,we would also need to understand the unique context of each materialhow and where the cotton was grown,how the

241、polyester yarn was spun and the energy source for its production,etc.To tackle the microfibre pollution problem and enable the industry to shift towards a future that is just and regenerative for both the planet and people,the industry should move away from quick fixes and comparisons.More research

242、is needed to understand specific fibre shedding profiles and work towards improving their overall sustainability profile,not just for cotton and polyester but for all fibres and textiles.Until new materials that have been proven to have a better sustainability profile can be developed,which would en

243、tail their shedding profiles and success of scaling for mass production,the industry should move away from employing the lens of strict comparisons in order to make meaningful progress toward sustainability.RecommendationsTackling Microfibres at SourceForum for the Future|2023Cotton being spun at th

244、e Ramatex millThese recommendations are segmented three ways:the first for mills(Tiers 2-3),the second for cut and sew factories(Tier 1),and third for brands and retailers.Integrated suppliers should consider recommendations for both groups of suppliers.Tackling Microfibres at Source47Forum for the

245、Future|2023For industry1.Ensure that manufacturing facilities have a robust wastewater management system.This should be the first step taken if not already in place.(See Appendix C for more detailed information on wastewater management systems.)Robust wastewater management systems are a first step i

246、n tackling the microfibre pollution problem and many suppliers already have wastewater management systems in place due to requirements from their brand partners,or to fulfil local regulations.Mills(Tiers 2-3)Mills that do not yet have a wastewater management system in place should urgently implement

247、 such a system as a first step in tackling the microfibre pollution problem.For those with systems in place,they should review existing systems for their efficacy in filtering microfibres,with the goal of moving towards ultrafiltration or a reverse osmosis system.Educate your customers about the imp

248、ortance of installing or improving these systems,so they understand the environmental and social benefits of these systems as well as the costs involved.Cut and sew(Tier 1)Educate your customers about the importance of installing or improving these systems,so they understand the environmental and so

249、cial benefits of these systems as well as the costs involved.Choose to work with suppliers with robust wastewater management processes.Ask about the wastewater treatment processes of existing suppliers.Consider ways of supporting these suppliers through price premiums or fronting them with brands an

250、d retailers.Brands and retailersAsk your suppliers about how wastewater is managed in their mills,or the mills of their suppliers,and if they can be optimised.If not in place,work with them towards eventually setting up a robust wastewater system.Table 4:Recommendations around wastewater management

251、systems2.Use dyeing solutions as an opportunity for innovation and new ways of collaboration with industry partners;opt for solutions that have a high potential for transformational versus incremental improvements There are many options to innovate in the dyeing process.Some provide only incremental

252、 improvements but may be more feasible as an immediate solution,while others such as waterless dyeing innovations(dope dyeing,dry printing,supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing)may offer greater transformational potential but may be less accessible due to the amount of financial investment required.Th

253、ere are also uncertainties around the quality of dyeing and whether,as a whole,they offer a more sustainable solution with other considerations such as energy use in mind.At present,all dyeing innovations entail significant changes with the more transformational solutions requiring an even greater a

254、mount of financial investment and risk-taking on the part of suppliers.Given the current power structures within the system,suppliers are likely to opt for incremental solutions that are easier to implement as that avoids disrupting the established dyeing process and guarantees the delivery of custo

255、mer orders.However,when decisions are made to invest in incremental solutions they become entrenched which makes it harder to invest in disruptive or transformational technologies later on.Tackling Microfibres at Source48Forum for the Future|2023If we want to truly tackle the microfibre pollution pr

256、oblem in textile manufacturing,we need to put in place the building blocks that can accelerate the shift towards more transformational solutions.In other words,before these investments are made,we need brand-supplier collaborations that more equitably share the risks of investment and the burden of

257、the risks involved in major process changes,building strong relationships for win-win outcomes.We strongly encourage all stakeholders to start the conversation on microfibres and dyeing solutions with your customers and suppliers,as an area ripe for innovation and change and a new opportunity for co

258、llaboration.Tackling Microfibres at Source49Forum for the Future|2023Mills(Tiers 2-3)Understand microfibre shedding from your own dyeing processes by first undertaking testing using the research methodology developed in this project,followed by considering more sustainable options.(Refer to solution

259、s table on page 40.)Educate and share knowledge with your customers and suppliers about dyeing methods and processes.Consider sharing your preferred dye methods or approaches through mutual learning sessions.Advocate for more sustainable and transformational dyeing solutions to your customers either

260、 directly or through pre-competitive collaboration with peers.Consider collective advocacy with peers to leverage a stronger voice with your brand customers.Cut and sew(Tier 1)Understand the processes of your fabric suppliers,especially the dyeing methods and processes that precede your part of the

261、production.Support supplier mills that have made investments to transform their dyeing processes,for example,by putting them forward to brands and retailers during the product development stage.Advocate for more sustainable and transformational dyeing solutions to your brand customers either directl

262、y or through pre-competitive collaboration with peers to leverage a collective voice and consolidate enough orders to create economies of scale for mills to adopt the chosen innovation(s).Brands and retailersInvest in understanding the production process for your products.Understand the processes of

263、 your suppliers,especially the dyeing methods and processes used in the production of your finished items.Discuss current dyeing methods and processes with your suppliers and explore more sustainable options.Support suppliers by exploring ways to de-risk the cost of investment jointly.Support suppli

264、ers that have already invested to transform their dyeing processes by paying them a premium for their products.Educate consumers on the impact of dyeing processes and the decisions made to shift towards more sustainable options that mean they may cost more,and that some products may have a different

265、 look.For example,shifting to more sustainable methods of dyeing might mean consumers accept some margin of unlevel dyeing,or accept fewer colour options(or no colour!).Table 5:Recommendations around dyeing solutions as an opportunity for innovation,collaboration and transformational improvementsPle

266、ase refer to the comparison of dyeing technologies based on the level of potential shown in tackling microfibres and how widely considered they are by the industry59 on page 38.3.Selection of material and yarn type and construction Material and yarn types and construction are important factors in mi

267、crofibre shed in the manufacturing process.Synthetic materials such as polyester are products of fossil fuels and do not biodegrade,staying in the environment for a long time,while driving climate change.However,natural fibres such as cotton also have an impact on the environment and at present,emer

268、ging studies indicate they could remain in the environment for longer periods of time than expected.Recycled polyester,while closing the materials loop could,on the other hand,drive demand for even more plastics.The impact of yarn type and construction on microfibre shed is also an area that require

269、s more research and analysis to draw robust conclusions.Decisions such as shifting to all natural fibres or only recycled materials could create unintended consequences.Our recommendation is to take a systemic and measured approach in material and yarn selection,recognising that the selection of any

270、 material has trade-offs.As more research on materials and yarn types and constructions emerge,better decisions can be made to reduce microfibre shed while reducing energy,water and other harmful chemicals leaching to the environment that affect human health.Focusing on solutions within the dyeing p

271、rocess in the meantime can result in significant reductions in microfibre shed as well as reduce energy,water and the release of harmful chemicals.Tackling Microfibres at Source50Fabric being dyed at the Ramatex millTackling Microfibres at Source51Forum for the Future|2023Mills(Tiers 2-3)Invest in u

272、nderstanding the types of materials and yarns you are working with and their environmental(including microfibre shedding)and social impacts.While you may not have a direct influence on the materials and yarns chosen,this helps demonstrate accountability to your customers.Discuss and communicate acro

273、ss your company about reducing microfibre shed as a priority consideration for material and yarn choices.Equip your operational staff with the knowledge and capacity to engage with customers and suppliers on this topic.Cut and sew(Tier 1)Invest in understanding the types of materials and yarns selec

274、ted by your brand customers and used by your suppliers,their environmental(including microfibre shedding)and social impacts.Keep up to date about innovations in materials and yarns.Discuss and communicate across your company about reducing microfibre shed as a priority consideration for material and

275、 yarn choices.Equip your operational staff with the knowledge and capacity to engage with customers and suppliers on this topic.Advocate for more sustainable materials and yarns to your brand customers,including what it would take to implement these solutions as experiments or longer-term solutions.

276、Brands and retailersInvest in understanding the types of materials and yarns used by your suppliers,what is involved in their production processes,and what their environmental(including microfibre shedding)and social impacts are.Keep up to date about innovations in materials and yarns.Advocate for m

277、ore sustainable materials and yarns to your suppliers and have open discussions on what it would take to implement these solutions as experiments or longer-term solutions.For example,limited edition or test batch collections are often made in small volumes-can brands commit to larger volumes in adva

278、nce?Commission research and testing of microfibre impact within your supply chain by supporting suppliers in their testing.Partner with other peers to commission research and testing to help close the gap of understanding on the impacts of various material and yarn types on human and organism health

279、.Table 6:Recommendations around materials and yarns selection4.Demonstrate leadership by taking action now;engage with your industry partners,consumers,and start testing within facilities.We recommend that brands and suppliers start engaging on the microfibre pollution problem,if they have not yet b

280、egun.Although there are currently no industry standards nor regulations on microfibres,this is a good opportunity for industry actors to demonstrate leadership on a new challenge.With regulations on the near horizon,it is prudent to stay ahead of the curve and take action today in preparation.This w

281、ould stand them in good stead when regulations are implemented.Suppliers should begin by understanding microfibre shed from their own processes by undertaking testing either using the testing methodology developed in this project,or using the TMC test method on finished products.Suppliers who have n

282、ot yet installed wastewater management systems should do so as a first step.Brands can also begin to educate consumers on the topic,laying the groundwork for when the solutions implemented may require a new acceptance from consumers of how their products look.Tackling Microfibres at Source52View of

283、the Ramatex wastewater management facilityTackling Microfibres at Source53Forum for the Future|2023Mills(Tiers 2-3)All recommendations in previous sections.Since microfibre shed occurs across the entire manufacturing process,explore ways of measuring fibre shed from other(dry)steps such as knitting

284、and spinning e.g.lint collection.Consider pre-competitive collaboration with peers for collective action such as commissioning more research and testing so that it is clear to the industry-especially brands and retailers-what is needed to reduce microfibre pollution from textile manufacturing.Cut an

285、d sew(Tier 1)All recommendations in previous sections.Understand microfibre shed from the finished garment by undertaking testing on your products e.g.using the TMC method.Since microfibre shed occurs across the entire manufacturing process,explore ways of measuring fibre shed from finishing steps e

286、.g.lint collection.Brands and retailersAll recommendations in previous sectionsConsider pre-competitive collaboration with peers for collective action such as commissioning more research and testing so that it is clear to the industry what is needed to reduce microfibre pollution from textile manufa

287、cturing.Engage and educate within your company about the microfibre pollution problem,especially departments that have direct interactions with or an impact on suppliers or product design.Ensure all departments are clear on the actions being taken by the company on microfibres.Educate and equip your

288、 design teams to design with production processes in mind.Designers should have an understanding of how their products are or will be made.Engage and educate policymakers about the challenges faced by the industry in understanding and tackling the problem.Include suppliers in these engagements to su

289、pport policymakers in making a holistic assessment of the challenge and drafting regulations that tackle the root causes of the problem.Educate consumers on what it takes for products to be sustainable-from processes to cost and what questions consumers should be asking for truly sustainable fashion

290、.Influence preferences towards more sustainable options and styles.Innovate within sustainable styles to set new trends that promote a deep and meaningful shift to sustainable fashion.Table 7:Recommendations for engagement and taking actionFor policymakersThe first policy commitment to address micro

291、fibre pollution was passed in France in 2021 and will require mandatory microfibre filters on washing machines from 2025.We share four recommendations for policymakers considering regulatory actions on microfibre pollution:Tackling Microfibres at Source54Forum for the Future|2023Provide funding oppo

292、rtunities or incentives for the industry,tailored to SMEs to test and scale promising solutions to de-risk the cost of innovation for first movers.This encourages industry leaders to opt for proven transformational solutions that may require more capital investment upfront versus incremental solutio

293、ns.Supply chain voices are often left out of the discussion as they may not sit within the same geographies and jurisdictions as brands and retailers.Policymakers can design incentives in a way that encourages brands and retailers to engage their supply chain and bring supplier representation to the

294、 table.Governments with aid agencies in the Global South could play a role in bringing these voices in too.Policy to enable more research on upstream emissions and the potential implications on health in manufacturing countries.Provide funding opportunities for urgent research to better understand t

295、he impacts of various materials and their impacts on microfibre shed including toxicity studies.Particularly helpful would be studies that draw out the impacts on ocean and human health and biodegradability(see Table 1 for existing gaps).Deeper and more holistic understanding of these impacts can dr

296、ive momentum for change in the right direction.Take a systemic approach and consider the apparel industry and its impacts as a whole.Beyond microfibres,the industry has a big impact on energy and water use,environmental pollution,human and biodiversity health.Policymakers need to be careful of any u

297、nintended consequences of regulations so that they do not exacerbate existing problems or even create new ones.For instance,the mandate for recycled content such as rPET could entrench current demands for PET production,or even worse drive up demand in a bid to meet regulations.Policymakers can cons

298、ult different stakeholder groups beyond brands and retailers,such as suppliers(either directly or via brands and retailers)and researchers who conduct research on textiles.Provide incentives for industry actors to promote cross-industry pre-competitive collaboration.Policymakers have the ability to

299、design their funding opportunities in a way that encourages equal participation of industry partners and should do so to encourage systemic changes that are long-term and sustainable.1.2.4.3.For other stakeholdersTackling Microfibres at Source55Forum for the Future|2023If you areEngagement opportuni

300、tiesPart of a trade association of the textile industry or fashion industry Replicability of methodology and adoption of solutions:Trade associations are important stakeholders that can communicate the recommendations from this report to their members.They can also organise large-scale sharings amon

301、gst their members to create more awareness of the problem and share experiences.Stakeholders can then begin their own testing and engagement with their customers/suppliers about the problem.Part of an interest and/or research group working on microplastics and microfibres Replicability and scalabili

302、ty:Leverage access to research labs through member partners as this can play an important role in encouraging the replication of the research methodology amongst across the network of supplier members.Stakeholders can build on the knowledge of microfibre impacts from production processes,or scale th

303、e research by linking up upstream and downstream impacts.Other suppliers in industry e.g.suppliers of dyestuff,machinery companiesScalability:Progressive suppliers of equipment and dyestuff(vendors)can accelerate the shift to more transformative solutions.Stakeholders can be part of discussions with

304、 their customers to explore potential solutions.Policymakers and government-linked groups Scalability:Policymakers have the potential to strongly influence the direction and pace of change for e.g.incentivising partnerships between stakeholders,further research,and the adoption of transformational s

305、olutions.Financial institutions or investor groups financing the plastics research or the manufacturing and textiles sectorScalability:Financial actors have the potential to strongly influence the direction and pace of change.For eg.incentivise partnerships between stakeholders,further research,and

306、the adoption of transformational solutions.Other civil society groups looking at microplastics,textiles,sustainable fashion etc.Replicability and scalability:We see these groups as important actors to build on the research we have started,through either the microplastics or microfibres route,or comm

307、unicating the problem to build awareness with consumers.Consumers/the general publicScalability:Consumers are critical to the overall shift to a just and regenerative apparel industry.Read up on the microfibre pollution problem and let your favourite brands know you want them to do more in this area

308、.Be open to trying and appreciating new,more sustainable styles,materials and undyed products.Table 8:Recommendations for engagement opportunities for other stakeholdersRecommended ResourcesUnderstanding pre-consumer microfibre shed1.The Nature Conservancy:Pre-consumer microfiber emissions from clot

309、hing enter oceans at an alarming rate Tackling Microfibres at Source56Forum for the Future|2023Research on post-consumer microfibre shed2.Ocean Wise,Plastics Lab Understanding brand-supplier dynamics and collaborations3.Manufactured:a podcast about sustainability and the making of fashionUnderstandi

310、ng the dyeing process and its impacts4.Fashion Revolution(2019)The true cost of colour:The impact of textile dyes on water systems5.Fashion for Good(2022)Textile Processing Guide:Pre-Treatment,Colouration&FinishingUnderstanding brand-supplier dynamics and collaborations6.European Environment Agency(

311、2022)Microplastics from textiles:towards a circular economy for textiles in EuropeGeneral industry information7.The Microfibre Consortium8.Sustainable Apparel CoalitionReferences1 Slangerup,J.(2019).“2019 Supply Chain Outlook for the Apparel Industry”.Available from:https:/ Fashion for Good.(2022).“

312、Textile Processing Guide:Pre-treatment,colouration&finishing”.Available from:https:/ Ellen MacArthur Foundation.“Plastics in a Circular Economy:Designing out plastic pollution”.Available from:https:/ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/plastics/overview4 Carrington,D.(2018).“Plastic pollution discove

313、red at deepest point of ocean”.Available from:https:/ Bergmann,M.,Collard,F.,Fabres,J.,et al.(2022).“Plastic pollution in the Arctic”.Available from:https:/ Leslie,H.,van Velzen,M.,Brandsma,S.,et al.(2022).“Discovery and quantification of plastic particle pollution in human blood”.Available from:htt

314、ps:/doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2022.1071997 The Guardian.(2020).“Microplastic particles now discoverable in human organs“.Available from:https:/ Note:These findings were taken from the presentation by a research team at the Arizona State University,who presented to the American Chemical Societys Annua

315、l Meeting in Aug 2020.Such research is considered preliminary until published in a peer-reviewed journal.8 Stanton,T.,Johnson,M.,Nathanail,P.,et al.(2019).“Freshwater and airborne textile fibre populations are dominated by natural,not microplastic,fibres”.Available from:https:/pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.go

316、v/30798244/9 The Microfiber Partnership led by Ocean Wises Plastics Lab has released useful studies on the impact of various wash cycles and filters in reducing microfibre release from home laundry.Available from:https:/ocean.org/pollution-plastics/plastics_lab/10 The Nature Conservancy.(2021).“NEW

317、RESEARCH:Pre-Consumer Microfiber Emissions from Clothing Enter Oceans At Alarming Rate”.Available from:https:/www.nature.org/en-us/newsroom/ca-microfiber-emissions/11 CDP.(2020).“Just 1 in 10 fashion companies show awareness of water pollution across whole value chain”.Available from:https:/ Europea

318、n Commission.“EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles”.Available from:https:/environment.ec.europa.eu/strategy/textiles-strategy_en13 Leslie,H.,van Velzen,M.,Brandsma,S.,et al.(2022).“Discovery and quantification of plastic particle pollution in human blood”.Available from:https:/doi.org/1

319、0.1016/j.envint.2022.10719914 Van Dijk,F.,Song,S.,van Eck,G.W.A.,et.al.(2021).“Inhalable textile microplastic fibers impair lung repair”.Available from:https:/doi.org/10.1101/2021.01.25.42814415 Rahman,A.,Sarkar,A.,Yadav,O.P.,et.al.(2021).“Potential human health risks due to environmental exposure t

320、o nano-and microplastics and knowledge gaps:A scoping review”.Available from:https:/doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2020.14387216 ibid.Tackling Microfibres at Source57Forum for the Future|202317 Slangerup,J.op cit.18 CottonWorks.(2012).“Textile Dyeing”.Available from:https:/ Assoune,A.“How Do Textile Dy

321、es Harm Our Environment And Health”.Available from:https:/ Context is important to fully comprehend and assess the impacts of any element including water and energy consumption.Hence,we have used open source statistics in our report as a reference with the knowledge that we are unable to investigate

322、 the exact claims and that they are based on the context specific to that particular case,and this claim may not be wholly accurate in another context.E.g.cotton grown in one country may use far less or more resources than cotton grown in another country or even in another region of the same country

323、.See:https:/www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/putting-brakes-fast-fashion21 Fibre2Fashion.“Water efficiency in textile processes”.Available from:https:/ Ranson,B.(2019).“The true cost of colour:The impact of textile dyes on water systems”.Available from:https:/www.fashionrevolution.org/the-true-co

324、st-of-colour-the-impact-of-textile-dyes-on-water-systems/23 Lellis,B.,Favaro-Polonio,C.Z.,Pamphile,J.A.,Polonio,J.C.(2019).“Effects of textile dyes on health and the environment and bioremediation potential of living organisms”.Available from:https:/ Regan,H.(2020).“Asian rivers are turning black.An

325、d our colorful closets are to blame”.Available from:https:/ Clark,M.(2011).“Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing”.Available from:https:/ Christie,R.(2007).“Environmental Aspects of Textile Dyeing”.Available from:https:/ Vikrant,K.,Giri,B.S.,Raza,N.,et al.(2018).“Recent advancements in bioremedi

326、ation of dye:Current status and challenges”.Available from:https:/ Ito,T.,Adachi,Y.,Yamanashi,Y.,Shimada,Y.(2016).“Long-term natural remediation process in textile dye-polluted river sediment driven by bacterial community changes”.Available from:https:/ Ellen MacArthur Foundation.(2017).“A New Texti

327、les Economy:Redesigning Fashions Future”.Available from:https:/ Planet Tracker.(2021).“Will fashion dye another day?Water-related financial risks in the textiles sector”.Available from:https:/planet-tracker.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Will-Fashion-Dye-another-Day.pdfTackling Microfibres at Source

328、58Forum for the Future|2023References31 Choudhury,A.K.R.(2017).“Sustainable chemical technologies for textile production”.Available from:https:/doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102041-8.00010-X32 Fashion for Good.op cit.33 ibid.34 Camelo,T.R.(2021).“Yarn Dyeing:All You Need To Know About The Bright World O

329、f Dyed Yarns”.Available from:https:/ IKEA.(2015).“IKEA Facts:Textile Dyeing”.Available from:https:/ Camelo,T.R.op cit.37 Choudhury,A.K.R.op cit.38 We aRe SpinDye.Available from:https:/ The challenge is that suppliers do not possess the ability to produce the masterbatch colours in-house-this experti

330、se and capacity lies with the masterbatch supplier,and potentially requires an overhaul of their supply chain and recipe formulation in order to meet the hundreds of different colours and colour shades demanded by a single customer,often within a single production season.As a result,textile supplier

331、s continue to prefer traditional dyeing methods as they can control the mix and match of dyes using the machines that have been optimised for a wide range of dyestuff formulations.40 This process has specific parameters.Ramatex estimates that it takes approximately three days to finish one dose of c

332、olour and the production of 5,000kg of yarn at one time,to make economical sense in ordering and processing a specific masterbatch colour.41 HP.(2020).“Dye Sublimation Is Reshaping The Future Of Digital Textile Printing.Heres How.”Available from:https:/ Warren,L.(2021).“Could digitally printed denim

333、 be the next sustainable innovation?”.Available from:https:/ Texintel.“What are acid inks for digital textile printing and why are they used?”.Available from:https:/ HP.op cit.45 Coastal Creative.“Guide to Sublimation Printing”.Available from:https:/ HP.op cit.47 SPGPrints.“The Note Digital printing materials:which fabric is best for digital printing?”.Available from:https:/ Facility space and whe